77: Moving the Bust Area

Probably the most important single fit aspect of a garment is the fit over the bust.

If a bodice pattern has bust darting the darting often needs to be moved to allow the bodice to fit correctly.

Here are instructions that show how to do that.

1. Measure from point to point.
Divide the measurement in half.

2. Mark a straight-grain line

 on the front bodice pattern,

 that distance from the 

center-front grain line.

1. Measure the from point to point. Divide the measurement in half.

4. Mark the true bust point on the

bodice pattern, the measured

width from the center front to

the true bust point.

2. Mark a straight-grain line on the front bodice pattern, that distance from the center-front grain line.

3. Measure the length from 

the shoulder to the true bust point.

3. Measure the length from the shoulder to the true bust point.

4. Mark the true bust point on the bodice pattern, the measured width from the center front to the true bust point.

6. Lay tracing paper over the dart

area.

5. Lay the pattern over the

model to see if the true bust point

is correct.

5. Lay the pattern over the model to see if the true bust point is correct.

6. Lay tracing paper over the bodice pattern's dart area.

7.  Use RED pencil to trace the darts.
With RED pencil trace the straight grain
that is marked through the waist dart.

8. Move the traced darts and 

straight-grain line so the traced 

original true bust point now 

lies over the true bust point.

Tape the tracing in place.

7.  Use RED pencil to trace the darts.  With RED pencil trace the straight grain  that is marked through the waist dart.

8. Move the traced darts and straight-grain line so traced original true bust point now lies over the model's true bust point. Tape the tracing in place.

9. Trace the front bodice with the new

carts. Add a 3/4 inch seam allowance

down the center front.

10. Cut the front and back bodices in

muslin. Pin together. Check the bust

fit. Mark the darts' sewing points.

Re-pin the darts.

9. Trace the front bodice with the new darts. Add a 3/4 inch seam allowance down the center front. 

10. Cut the front and back bodices in muslin. Pin together. Check the bust fit. Mark the darts' sewing points. Re-pin the darts.

11.  Lay the front bodice pattern over

the muslin. Copy the sewn dart pints.

Mark the sewn dart points with BLUE 

pencil.

12. From the lower third of the

armhole mark a line to the

true bust point.

11.  Lay the front bodice pattern over the muslin. Copy the sewn dart points. Mark the sewn dart points with BLUE pencil.

12. From the lower third of the armhole mark a line to the true bust point.

13. Fold the bust dart as shown. With RED pencil 

connect the underarm/side seam intersection with 

the waistline/side seam intersection.

13. Fold the bust dart as shown. With RED pencil connect the underarm/side seam intersection with the waistline/side seam intersection.


Thanks for reading! Your comments are most welcome. Questions? Email or call 215 884 7065. 

If interested in reading more posts about fashion technology, please consider adding your name to this blog's circles. Please consider following me on Facebook where I post links to fashion feeds and other fashion related topics.

Look for the article about seam allowance modification that I wrote for Threads Magazine. It is in their 199 issue that is now in libraries and on the newsstands. 

I am currently working on a book that presents how to custom grade patterns to fit. All work can be done in the home with minimal equipment - tracing paper, pencils, transparent ruler. I'm hoping to have that book finished by the end of this year. It's sequel, Grading and Sewing a Blouse is finished and will be offered as a sweet deal with the grading book.

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