tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14456598515345404792024-02-18T22:07:33.873-08:00ContemporaryFashionEducationLaurel Hoffmannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00238938109416111092noreply@blogger.comBlogger79125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1445659851534540479.post-68162921819204429382023-10-28T09:19:00.002-07:002023-10-30T03:15:53.246-07:00Lost gold heirloom thimble - <p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8w5vJ_h-a-FZHA6AGK5bOwaja11Q0zz70Owznv3vg8rJTfnIeuKmMwN-vWDvh0mUBbh-fyFOatxo9ZTe5mUZRzXY03M38WX9WEzhwMvwlCuOPKqGmcC5JE9zVvJs3my3ENhADd1gNeN6swgPYdFpnHcUEFhchM2cnqZ1Uiv26NES-I-v0CVgy8HQZXV4/s900/ThimblePics.gif" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="675" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8w5vJ_h-a-FZHA6AGK5bOwaja11Q0zz70Owznv3vg8rJTfnIeuKmMwN-vWDvh0mUBbh-fyFOatxo9ZTe5mUZRzXY03M38WX9WEzhwMvwlCuOPKqGmcC5JE9zVvJs3my3ENhADd1gNeN6swgPYdFpnHcUEFhchM2cnqZ1Uiv26NES-I-v0CVgy8HQZXV4/s320/ThimblePics.gif" width="240" /></a></div>Wish to purchase the antique gold thimble, shown above.<p></p><p> Apparently lost it at Plymouth Meeting Mall, near Chang's restaurant.</p><p>Hopefully it was found and the person who found it has sold it to a pawn or local antique shop. <br /></p><p>Laurel Hoffmann<br />215 884 7065</p><p>Laurel@CFashionEdu.com<br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Laurel Hoffmannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00238938109416111092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1445659851534540479.post-12606647445798718222018-11-05T09:44:00.001-08:002019-01-20T15:18:47.435-08:00Blog has moved to new locationDear Readers in my circles,<br />
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<a href="https://cfashionedu.com/blog/" target="_blank">My blog has been moved.</a> <span style="color: blue;"><b>If you would like to receive notification of my posts, please complete the signup form at the bottom of any page on my <a href="https://cfashionedu.com/" target="_blank">website</a>.</b></span><br />
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I am now posting every week. Six new posts are up including:<br />
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<h1 class="w-blogpost-title entry-title" itemprop="headline" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: "Noto Serif", serif; font-weight: 400; line-height: 1.4; margin: 0px 0px 1.5rem; padding-top: 0px;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://cfashionedu.com/78-making-a-childs-dress-from-a-home-sewing-pattern/" target="_blank"><span id="goog_97450848"></span>78: Making a Child’s Dress from a Home Sewing Pattern</a><span id="goog_97450849"></span></span></h1>
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<span style="font-family: "noto serif" , serif; font-size: large;"><a href="https://cfashionedu.com/79-how-shirts-differ-from-blouses/" style="font-family: "Noto Serif", serif;" target="_blank">79: How Shirts Differ from Blouses</a></span></div>
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<h1 class="w-blogpost-title entry-title" itemprop="headline" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: "Noto Serif", serif; font-weight: 400; line-height: 1.4; margin: 0px 0px 1.5rem; padding-top: 0px;">
<a href="https://cfashionedu.com/choosing-the-right-size-sewing-pattern/" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: large;">80: How to Choose the Right Size Sewing Pattern</span></a></h1>
<h1 class="w-blogpost-title entry-title" itemprop="headline" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: "Noto Serif", serif; font-weight: 400; line-height: 1.4; margin: 0px 0px 1.5rem; padding-top: 0px;">
<a href="https://cfashionedu.com/81-california-fashions/" style="background-color: transparent;" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: large;">81: California Fashions</span></a></h1>
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<h1 class="w-blogpost-title entry-title" itemprop="headline" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: "Noto Serif", serif; font-weight: 400; line-height: 1.4; margin: 0px 0px 1.5rem; padding-top: 0px;">
<a href="https://cfashionedu.com/82-professional-procedure-for-designing-sewing-personal-clothing/" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: large;">82: Professional procedure for Designing & Sewing Personal Clothing</span></a></h1>
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<h1 class="w-blogpost-title entry-title" itemprop="headline" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: "Noto Serif", serif; font-weight: 400; line-height: 1.4; margin: 0px 0px 1.5rem; padding-top: 0px;">
<a href="https://cfashionedu.com/83-sewing-for-entrepreneurs/" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: large;">83: Sewing for Entrepreneurs</span></a></h1>
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Laurel Hoffmannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00238938109416111092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1445659851534540479.post-72893884435522584682018-09-23T14:05:00.001-07:002018-09-23T14:05:49.380-07:0077: Moving the Bust Area<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">Probably the most important single fit aspect of a garment is the fit over the bust. </span><br />
<br />
If a bodice pattern has bust darting the darting often needs to be moved to allow the bodice to fit correctly.<br />
<br />
Here are instructions that show how to do that.<br />
<br />
<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZaUFKY_0ykGAMwbeKSTkTnEBwD8kTzpKbZexiQXnZhXxOokGUNFJ0BfZKDy0BgF0tDRyEeLC7RQmNjdU46rxiQFxOPaZARX8BCSIvtbxfkLFLE43lDoUEU9CJc_nFKoWnvE7dNPfnTNM/s1600/01+figure.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="223" data-original-width="179" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZaUFKY_0ykGAMwbeKSTkTnEBwD8kTzpKbZexiQXnZhXxOokGUNFJ0BfZKDy0BgF0tDRyEeLC7RQmNjdU46rxiQFxOPaZARX8BCSIvtbxfkLFLE43lDoUEU9CJc_nFKoWnvE7dNPfnTNM/s200/01+figure.jpg" width="160" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>1.</b> Measure from point to point.</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Divide the measurement in half.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh80peCKV6I8ONTfimm-RIokY1V5zFbEChWxxEAP7qjwHkJLDQ4iEpGwqTv4UV5cGuClKZdjY5pUIwG9dBaWFRCiPh1o_3GsrCmyD5ViSSXVuU1xx46QIkc7c6BcdRScz_-8FMV3A5B3ng/s1600/02++true+pt+width.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" data-original-height="364" data-original-width="216" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh80peCKV6I8ONTfimm-RIokY1V5zFbEChWxxEAP7qjwHkJLDQ4iEpGwqTv4UV5cGuClKZdjY5pUIwG9dBaWFRCiPh1o_3GsrCmyD5ViSSXVuU1xx46QIkc7c6BcdRScz_-8FMV3A5B3ng/s320/02++true+pt+width.jpg" width="189" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b style="font-size: small;">2. </b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Mark a straight-grain line</span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><div style="text-align: left;">
on the front bodice pattern,</div>
<span style="text-align: start;"><div style="text-align: left;">
that distance from the </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
center-front grain line.</div>
</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>1. </b>Measure the from point to point. Divide the measurement in half.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkCAVCyzdjBqZ_94xs_R-a-7pdpTaOWhrDsgn9aX2hOTxXBSaL5DlX_-U1887YgYdqkOPbIfZGUHdt3oXJedChd_ExXxipv8IYRg1jGynySID7RRCVpnsq35ZrfZthYaUXp562rayBNMY/s1600/04++true+pt+depth.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="364" data-original-width="204" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkCAVCyzdjBqZ_94xs_R-a-7pdpTaOWhrDsgn9aX2hOTxXBSaL5DlX_-U1887YgYdqkOPbIfZGUHdt3oXJedChd_ExXxipv8IYRg1jGynySID7RRCVpnsq35ZrfZthYaUXp562rayBNMY/s320/04++true+pt+depth.jpg" width="179" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>4. </b>Mark the true bust point on the</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">bodice pattern, the measured</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">width from the center front to</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">the true bust point.</span></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>2. </b>Mark a straight-grain line on the front bodice pattern, that distance from the center-front grain line.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBDk0diASx8ncXknkY8Zi9ItCO3WD_rsvuYWQR2K691RA2RYsnM89bitFkqwWIPUa99DlXDoBWJ9CxiY4K4T5gHpQsHCbIGNh-9LsCRuPWKiddR89ohVTcZjA69taeH2YVXfRZ108PWcE/s1600/03+Measure+from+shoulder.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="223" data-original-width="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBDk0diASx8ncXknkY8Zi9ItCO3WD_rsvuYWQR2K691RA2RYsnM89bitFkqwWIPUa99DlXDoBWJ9CxiY4K4T5gHpQsHCbIGNh-9LsCRuPWKiddR89ohVTcZjA69taeH2YVXfRZ108PWcE/s1600/03+Measure+from+shoulder.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b style="font-size: small;">3. </b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Measure the length from </span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="text-align: start;">the shoulder to the true bust po</span></span><span style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">int.</span></span></div>
</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
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<b>3. </b>Measure the length from the shoulder to the true bust point.<br />
<br />
<b style="text-align: center;">4. </b><span style="text-align: center;">Mark the true bust point on the </span><span style="text-align: center;">bodice pattern, the measured </span><span style="text-align: center;">width from the center front to </span><span style="text-align: center;">the true bust point</span><span style="font-size: 12.8px; text-align: center;">.</span><br />
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: left; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAG5Ee_T1PJb5NDyyW2EUTZXktVBYiXbPI2hcXkVXlGRfHje2hKauNcY2TuuvN_oKrlLHdYYFFFI3xbPjdKo8zQlsbZJC5bAk-PX2bRaJ31Av7OCDnXlGfiJfmtlVIYCG4YQ7H8UVhs9s/s1600/06+lower+dart+pt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="364" data-original-width="219" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAG5Ee_T1PJb5NDyyW2EUTZXktVBYiXbPI2hcXkVXlGRfHje2hKauNcY2TuuvN_oKrlLHdYYFFFI3xbPjdKo8zQlsbZJC5bAk-PX2bRaJ31Av7OCDnXlGfiJfmtlVIYCG4YQ7H8UVhs9s/s320/06+lower+dart+pt.jpg" width="192" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>6. </b>Lay tracing paper over the dart</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">area.</span><span style="font-size: 12.8px;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font-size: 12.8px; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzYzvs7UB_Obb9hSPsqvzrKQUjHWgeNId5sUdRa5mrbfnU9F7MI06S2hwZG4b1uWFhYRHX2XWu_zD89eXFPL31eE0ZoXpAsTw1PYAFw75wnO2zgS7o_AxPHhrQv7Ge80W0FUDcL-URJtg/s1600/05+wear+pattern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="226" data-original-width="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzYzvs7UB_Obb9hSPsqvzrKQUjHWgeNId5sUdRa5mrbfnU9F7MI06S2hwZG4b1uWFhYRHX2XWu_zD89eXFPL31eE0ZoXpAsTw1PYAFw75wnO2zgS7o_AxPHhrQv7Ge80W0FUDcL-URJtg/s1600/05+wear+pattern.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>5. </b>Lay the pattern over the</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">model to see if the true bust point</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">is correct.</span></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b></b><br />
<b></b>
<b><br /></b>
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<b><br /></b>
<br />
<b>5. </b>Lay the pattern over the model to see if the true bust point is correct.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>6. </b>Lay tracing paper over the bodice pattern's dart area.</div>
<div>
<b></b><br />
<b></b></div>
<div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHMHCZ8FnwwXAlIwka_LnA7mWyiYWGoh0g5GpfWfFV8rrq7RI4Kbkjtsqni1EzYuJeqKeQGm9ftx2ni2kbmBwpEhl_cXPgZELDct2FlyaPOmI96sa_kMnkpd5UYFKtViki6KN9QRqhxj8/s1600/07+trace+previous+darting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="364" data-original-width="226" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHMHCZ8FnwwXAlIwka_LnA7mWyiYWGoh0g5GpfWfFV8rrq7RI4Kbkjtsqni1EzYuJeqKeQGm9ftx2ni2kbmBwpEhl_cXPgZELDct2FlyaPOmI96sa_kMnkpd5UYFKtViki6KN9QRqhxj8/s320/07+trace+previous+darting.jpg" width="198" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><b>7. </b> Use RED pencil to trace the darts.<br /><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">With RED pencil t</span>race the straight grain<br />that is marked through the waist dart.<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><br /></b>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcgKYvMEXElitPoB_zWhJgiWZLSJxyMKD4Ts8tDV3JiHWlhuAGr3wg0SOH-kGdT73HfDx6vUH6ZZrqUra4vk9HmsdscUMsB7yQbjVjypYuYXMZBNP6tHnKEaEISIZaFtxkZDBY4UjfV48/s1600/08+move+traced+darting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="381" data-original-width="238" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcgKYvMEXElitPoB_zWhJgiWZLSJxyMKD4Ts8tDV3JiHWlhuAGr3wg0SOH-kGdT73HfDx6vUH6ZZrqUra4vk9HmsdscUMsB7yQbjVjypYuYXMZBNP6tHnKEaEISIZaFtxkZDBY4UjfV48/s320/08+move+traced+darting.jpg" width="199" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;">
<b style="font-size: 12.8px;">8. </b><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Move the traced darts and </span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: 12.8px;">straight-grain line so the traced </span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: 12.8px;">original true bust point now </span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: 12.8px;">lies over the true bust point.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Tape the tracing in place.</span></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
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<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b>7. </b> Use RED pencil to trace the darts. With RED pencil trace the straight grain that is marked through the waist dart.</div>
<div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_QyqEp2bEhZAsFVK4snX7fv9gsp6GgVstxqrKw2TDvBpFuPy9pIDucNMUKfD4Rm92Ubbf8QZKAzWR8VcKP4lmKH4kAqKUwVJk4eAhPEhrq7KBA9g8UHudCzLkEEupDM8hIxLa4qbwKgQ/s1600/10+sewn+pts+on+model.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_QyqEp2bEhZAsFVK4snX7fv9gsp6GgVstxqrKw2TDvBpFuPy9pIDucNMUKfD4Rm92Ubbf8QZKAzWR8VcKP4lmKH4kAqKUwVJk4eAhPEhrq7KBA9g8UHudCzLkEEupDM8hIxLa4qbwKgQ/s1600/10+sewn+pts+on+model.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_QyqEp2bEhZAsFVK4snX7fv9gsp6GgVstxqrKw2TDvBpFuPy9pIDucNMUKfD4Rm92Ubbf8QZKAzWR8VcKP4lmKH4kAqKUwVJk4eAhPEhrq7KBA9g8UHudCzLkEEupDM8hIxLa4qbwKgQ/s1600/10+sewn+pts+on+model.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_QyqEp2bEhZAsFVK4snX7fv9gsp6GgVstxqrKw2TDvBpFuPy9pIDucNMUKfD4Rm92Ubbf8QZKAzWR8VcKP4lmKH4kAqKUwVJk4eAhPEhrq7KBA9g8UHudCzLkEEupDM8hIxLa4qbwKgQ/s1600/10+sewn+pts+on+model.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><span style="text-align: center;"><b>8. </b>Move the traced darts and </span><span style="text-align: center;">straight-grain line so traced original true bust point now lies over the model's true bust point. Tape the tracing </span><span style="text-align: center;">in place.</span><br />
<span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span>
<br /></div>
<div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2E-exBqrmQx0obAqtge7TZATIQPUQB81bMw9pWLauvzHn7YwZXVxvy00joixAMNVA0T2qLjRFlVaC61vyj9uxjqqvhv4WOlK2S8Ys8S8LsmtehejyNPVL5TdHDbgEhr3QjS06yQBFKrU/s1600/09+erase+previous+darting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="380" data-original-width="252" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2E-exBqrmQx0obAqtge7TZATIQPUQB81bMw9pWLauvzHn7YwZXVxvy00joixAMNVA0T2qLjRFlVaC61vyj9uxjqqvhv4WOlK2S8Ys8S8LsmtehejyNPVL5TdHDbgEhr3QjS06yQBFKrU/s320/09+erase+previous+darting.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;">
<b style="font-size: small;">9. </b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Trace the front bodice with the new</span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><div style="text-align: left;">
carts. Add a 3/4 inch seam allowance</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
down the center front.</div>
</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_QyqEp2bEhZAsFVK4snX7fv9gsp6GgVstxqrKw2TDvBpFuPy9pIDucNMUKfD4Rm92Ubbf8QZKAzWR8VcKP4lmKH4kAqKUwVJk4eAhPEhrq7KBA9g8UHudCzLkEEupDM8hIxLa4qbwKgQ/s1600/10+sewn+pts+on+model.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="242" data-original-width="171" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_QyqEp2bEhZAsFVK4snX7fv9gsp6GgVstxqrKw2TDvBpFuPy9pIDucNMUKfD4Rm92Ubbf8QZKAzWR8VcKP4lmKH4kAqKUwVJk4eAhPEhrq7KBA9g8UHudCzLkEEupDM8hIxLa4qbwKgQ/s1600/10+sewn+pts+on+model.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;">
<b style="font-size: small;">10. </b><span style="font-size: x-small;">Cut the front and back bodices in</span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><div style="text-align: left;">
muslin. Pin together. Check the bust</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
fit. Mark the darts' sewing points.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Re-pin the darts.</div>
</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b></b><br /><b></b>
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<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b>9. </b>Trace the front bodice with the new darts. Add a 3/4 inch seam allowance down the center front. <br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>10. </b>Cut the front and back bodices in muslin. Pin together. Check the bust fit. Mark the darts' sewing points. Re-pin the darts.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOOCAp2U9AWcbZk9KXJU2y8Pozu80vvHSVJRvP2187JIt44dud_S6MIaV9J1xAMjSS3l53WtdAKKqhWIrBIipzHJG3jx0KnAwydn5gkKFlLqDwZ-w7L6jPiuE7WaWcoD2z3JDDU8DErQE/s1600/11+mark+dart+sewing+lines.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="380" data-original-width="233" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOOCAp2U9AWcbZk9KXJU2y8Pozu80vvHSVJRvP2187JIt44dud_S6MIaV9J1xAMjSS3l53WtdAKKqhWIrBIipzHJG3jx0KnAwydn5gkKFlLqDwZ-w7L6jPiuE7WaWcoD2z3JDDU8DErQE/s320/11+mark+dart+sewing+lines.jpg" width="196" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>11. </b>Lay the front bodice pattern over</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">the muslin. Copy the sewn dart pints.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Mark the sewn dart points with BLUE </span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">pencil.</span><br />
<div style="font-size: 12.8px;">
<span style="font-size: 12.8px;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br /></div>
<b></b>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibRnA3qcHGUO_Vg5RzWlSp6pSQJ_ENsAh051VzrXH1Lg-SYk39imOHhB4KThKeLpXWe3TPqOLj4gyBCk574usvE3fN8BPZr8xjSkJyaOWtO2U2HgI-W5kDsFq_LYqeelpMfXrEhJe6hNI/s1600/12+cut+to+pt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="315" data-original-width="169" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibRnA3qcHGUO_Vg5RzWlSp6pSQJ_ENsAh051VzrXH1Lg-SYk39imOHhB4KThKeLpXWe3TPqOLj4gyBCk574usvE3fN8BPZr8xjSkJyaOWtO2U2HgI-W5kDsFq_LYqeelpMfXrEhJe6hNI/s1600/12+cut+to+pt.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>12. </b>From the lower third of the</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">armhole mark a line to the</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">true bust point.</span></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b></b><br /><b></b>
<br />
<div>
<b></b><br /><b></b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b>11. </b>Lay the front bodice pattern over the muslin. Copy the sewn dart points. Mark the sewn dart points with BLUE pencil.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div>
<b>12. </b>From the lower third of the armhole mark a line to the true bust point.</div>
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikQcSU3dyTWx0h5qOARcWH3gs9lK-mFkysfD8B_04SAcr5TIjujJaotOrgTyquN-c6MnKnon4-lwcPiz0TPNhOvA3wMbl-PrcI-yq5BjhXVmTYVwLJSaqmDaXVDxOXk-x1qmRWiqnMjPs/s1600/13+side+dart+down.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="345" data-original-width="190" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikQcSU3dyTWx0h5qOARcWH3gs9lK-mFkysfD8B_04SAcr5TIjujJaotOrgTyquN-c6MnKnon4-lwcPiz0TPNhOvA3wMbl-PrcI-yq5BjhXVmTYVwLJSaqmDaXVDxOXk-x1qmRWiqnMjPs/s320/13+side+dart+down.jpg" width="176" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><b>13. </b>Fold the bust dart as shown. With RED pencil </span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">connect the underarm/side seam intersection with </span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">the waistline/side seam intersection.</span></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><br /></b>
<b>13. </b><span style="text-align: center;">Fold the bust dart as shown. </span><span style="text-align: center;">With RED pencil connect the</span><span style="text-align: center;"> </span><span style="text-align: center;">underarm/side seam </span><span style="text-align: center;">intersection with the waistline/side </span><span style="text-align: center;">seam intersection.</span><br />
<span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span>
<span style="text-align: center;"><b><br /></b></span>
<span style="text-align: center;"><b>Thanks for reading! Your comments are most welcome. Questions? <a href="mailto:Laurel@CFashionEdu.com" target="_blank">Email</a> or call 215 884 7065. </b></span><br />
<span style="text-align: center;"></span><br />
<span style="text-align: center;"></span>
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<b style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;"><span style="color: magenta;">If interested in reading more posts about fashion technology, please consider adding your name to this blog's circles. </span></b><span style="color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;"><span style="color: magenta; font-weight: bold;">Please consider </span><span style="color: magenta; font-weight: bold;">following me on</span><b><i style="color: blue;"> </i><i><a href="https://www.facebook.com/CFashionEdu/" style="color: #888888; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue;">Facebook</span></a></i></b></span><i style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;"><span style="color: blue;"><b style="font-size: 13.2px;"> </b></span></i><b style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;"><span style="color: magenta;">where I post links to fashion feeds and other fashion related topics.</span></b><br />
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<div style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;">
<b style="color: blue; font-size: 13.2px;">Look for the article about seam allowance modification that I wrote for <i><a href="https://www.threadsmagazine.com/digitalissue/122066" style="color: #888888; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">Threads Magazine.</a> </i>It is<i> </i>in their 199 issue that is now in libraries and on the newsstands. </b></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;">
<b style="color: blue; font-size: 13.2px;"><br /></b></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;">
<b style="color: blue; font-size: 13.2px;">I am currently working on a book that presents how to custom grade patterns to fit. All work can be done in the home with minimal equipment - tracing paper, pencils, transparent ruler. I'm hoping to have that book finished by the end of this year. It's sequel, <i>Grading and Sewing a Blouse </i>is finished and will be offered as a <i>sweet deal </i>with the grading book.</b></div>
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<span style="color: #6699cc; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 15px;"><b>https://cfashionedu.com/</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #336699;">Twitter: </span><b style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration-line: none;"><a href="https://twitter.com/LaurelHoffmann1" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">https://twitter.com/LaurelHoffmann1</a></b></div>
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email: <a href="mailto:Laurel@CFashionEdu.com">Laurel@CFashionEdu.com</a></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.85px;">Phone: 215 884 7065</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , serif; font-size: 11pt;">©</span> Laurel Hoffmann, 2018. </div>
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Laurel Hoffmannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00238938109416111092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1445659851534540479.post-63859013861857083782018-09-06T13:46:00.000-07:002018-09-06T13:46:12.649-07:0076: Sewing Pants<h2>
<b><span style="color: blue;"><br /></span></b><b><span style="color: blue;">Sew pants in this order:</span></b></h2>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiif894IBI8oVNHgPrHLNcAUq5TwI4Qg-8lYlthWKhdv2rsRjz1HY6S4K9WLpWAoM3vrbbvUGPvXV-MaiFAz1jhTiMLcUHZYzVUodq3qfFfwaxeiH_usvEutxZIMkTTK113qfTDAFHdXu8/s1600/front_pants.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="324" data-original-width="144" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiif894IBI8oVNHgPrHLNcAUq5TwI4Qg-8lYlthWKhdv2rsRjz1HY6S4K9WLpWAoM3vrbbvUGPvXV-MaiFAz1jhTiMLcUHZYzVUodq3qfFfwaxeiH_usvEutxZIMkTTK113qfTDAFHdXu8/s320/front_pants.jpg" width="142" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Check the pant pattern with<br />a muslin fitting.</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaXgp0zYLBvQJaeg-dgY5qBMnVy7qyro6boOXu4YataCWfs7irR9Szu5CVhSYOWyrIW-_gijEBa2H95pQKliHHNx-h5G8g3VOXxmoiOztx-E47AuzXftEDsdmqy-02rm_2Spm52S0Z_nM/s1600/back_pants.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="324" data-original-width="137" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaXgp0zYLBvQJaeg-dgY5qBMnVy7qyro6boOXu4YataCWfs7irR9Szu5CVhSYOWyrIW-_gijEBa2H95pQKliHHNx-h5G8g3VOXxmoiOztx-E47AuzXftEDsdmqy-02rm_2Spm52S0Z_nM/s320/back_pants.jpg" width="135" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cutting to match produces<br />high-quality pants, no<br />matter what fabric is used.</td></tr>
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<span style="color: red; font-size: large; font-weight: bold;">Caution:</span><span style="font-size: large;"> </span>Before cutting the pants make a muslin to be sure they fit. <b><span style="color: blue;">The muslin can be made from inexpensive fashion fabric.</span></b> If the muslin's fit is good, the muslin can be worn.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: normal;">Only an inexpensive sewing machine is needed to make high quality pants, or other high quality garments for that matter. </span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuiFpXQt1omOS9Ec8LZhLO2wdKNeRp63Nct87PNXJkrWbazayiGmDHkaq7sS1P9wBuYtpqAayiedx951jLt_mZVfp4Y9e3aYCCCPTgvpzi4q8bbkvLZ6OyixCVO1E9-anItD_Hpx3bfTw/s1600/student_sewing_pants.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1259" data-original-width="1600" height="156" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuiFpXQt1omOS9Ec8LZhLO2wdKNeRp63Nct87PNXJkrWbazayiGmDHkaq7sS1P9wBuYtpqAayiedx951jLt_mZVfp4Y9e3aYCCCPTgvpzi4q8bbkvLZ6OyixCVO1E9-anItD_Hpx3bfTw/s200/student_sewing_pants.png" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Only an inexpensive sewing machine<br />is needed to make high-quality clothing.<br />Shown is a 1941 <br />feather-weight sewing machine<br /></td></tr>
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<b>1.</b><span style="font-weight: normal;"> Set the pockets.</span><br />
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<b>2.</b> Set the zipper. The zipper is set <span style="color: blue;"><b>BEFORE</b></span> the crotch seam is sewn.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTG2m5FbHvyVtjZUPYxAx9SvpnxpAO1BYjFzgoVDdS6NDaf0gB1JEcCHbLYkVIhb4XVyRR7NkqQgYT7DLfWrV7AUrtU_K6T0jfJl-y6Xra11BDPmmrVpCWWmtgm4MMu_SKO4u1SlJK4RI/s1600/top+stitching+pants.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="540" data-original-width="717" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTG2m5FbHvyVtjZUPYxAx9SvpnxpAO1BYjFzgoVDdS6NDaf0gB1JEcCHbLYkVIhb4XVyRR7NkqQgYT7DLfWrV7AUrtU_K6T0jfJl-y6Xra11BDPmmrVpCWWmtgm4MMu_SKO4u1SlJK4RI/s320/top+stitching+pants.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">When sewing zippers ALWAYS put the fabric that <br />has more give down to the feed, as shown here. That way<br />the feed dog will take up the ease, producing a professional finish.<br /> (The <span style="font-size: 12.8px;">fly facing is stiffened with fusing, </span><br style="font-size: 12.8px;" /><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">causing it to be stiffer than the pant front. </span><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">)</span></td></tr>
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(In the industry one seamstress sets the left side of the zipper, another seamstress sets the other side of the zipper, , the reason there is no stop at the bottom of fly zippers that have been sewn in the industry. <b><span style="color: blue;">After the side and inseams are sewn, the slide is slid up the zipper teeth to close the zipper.</span></b> Then the crotch seam is sewn. In the home this is not usually practical.) </div>
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<b>3</b>.Sew the crotch seam from the bottom of the zipper's stop to 1 1/2 inch from the front seam/inseam intersection.</div>
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<b>4.</b> Sew the side seams.</div>
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<b>5.</b> Sew the inseams. </div>
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<b>Note:</b> If the pants are encased with lining, there is no need to finish the seams, as encasing with lining IS a seam finish. </div>
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<b>6. </b>Sew the crotch seam from 1 1/2 inch from the front seam/inseam to the back waist.</div>
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<b>7. </b> Hem the pants.</div>
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<b>8. </b>Sew the waistband.</div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLcdlYWOF82yTi3Ys9ziaoYZPW8_Irv4sslzSavxsWciPEPBrN2R4cZTLJn6GfAjtE4mTs5N9DFNrd1sNJMM3EV6Xm-DCDXGCpoJpCSdHZCSRojUQ9JQRCDXztV9uBukjXU1d9VX9JwXg/s1600/sewing-pants-cover.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1327" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLcdlYWOF82yTi3Ys9ziaoYZPW8_Irv4sslzSavxsWciPEPBrN2R4cZTLJn6GfAjtE4mTs5N9DFNrd1sNJMM3EV6Xm-DCDXGCpoJpCSdHZCSRojUQ9JQRCDXztV9uBukjXU1d9VX9JwXg/s320/sewing-pants-cover.png" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> <span style="text-align: start;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="https://cfashionedu.com/product/sewing-pants-and-skirts/" style="font-style: italic;" target="_blank">The Basics for Sewing Pants and Skirts</a><br />contains the information needed to cut and sew<br />professional pants and skirts.</span></span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitbhQIl88ASg775eDtbX34fNObdj9cCBAmFWeL7NQ1S-RIaBMVXjfETus90PvQhM8zd6Ry1fFfWje_PZ3w4HXPamxfZaCIPP7ZQXMzUPePm1MT2MnJ7b-IfB3hHSiIrwbECgGKNvHK-64/s1600/sewing-pants-and-skirts-sample-book.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitbhQIl88ASg775eDtbX34fNObdj9cCBAmFWeL7NQ1S-RIaBMVXjfETus90PvQhM8zd6Ry1fFfWje_PZ3w4HXPamxfZaCIPP7ZQXMzUPePm1MT2MnJ7b-IfB3hHSiIrwbECgGKNvHK-64/s1600/sewing-pants-and-skirts-sample-book.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a></div>
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For complete classroom tested pant sewing information, consider <i><a href="https://cfashionedu.com/product/sewing-pants-and-skirts/" target="_blank">The Basics for Sewing Pants and Skirts</a>. </i>It contains 470 pages of professional, step-by-step sewing instructions that include inset back and front pockets, zipper sets, lining, hemming and other procedures and tips too numerous to mention.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1164" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitbhQIl88ASg775eDtbX34fNObdj9cCBAmFWeL7NQ1S-RIaBMVXjfETus90PvQhM8zd6Ry1fFfWje_PZ3w4HXPamxfZaCIPP7ZQXMzUPePm1MT2MnJ7b-IfB3hHSiIrwbECgGKNvHK-64/s320/sewing-pants-and-skirts-sample-book.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="232" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small; text-align: start;">Making a <a href="https://cfashionedu.com/product/the-basics-for-sewing-pants-skirts-sample-book/" style="text-align: start;" target="_blank">sample book</a> of the <br />procedures included in </span><a href="https://cfashionedu.com/product/sewing-pants-and-skirts/" style="font-size: small; font-style: italic; text-align: start;" target="_blank">The Basics for Sewing Pants and Skirts</a><br />helps to develop professional sewing and<br />tailoring skills. All of these <br />procedures can be done at home <br />with minimal equipment.<br /></td></tr>
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Many of the procedures in the book are complicated. Making a mock up of some of these procedures is a good idea before attempting to make them in a garment. That is why purchase of the book includes a file of the <a href="https://cfashionedu.com/product/the-basics-for-sewing-pants-skirts-sample-book/" target="_blank">sample book</a> one can make as one works through the book. Two other files are also included with the purchase: a file of all the mock up patterns that can be printed, and a printout of all of the sample book pages that includes all of the information on the author's master sample book.</div>
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<b style="color: blue; font-size: 13.2px;">Look for the article about seam allowance modification that I wrote for <i><a href="https://www.threadsmagazine.com/digitalissue/122066" target="_blank">Threads Magazine.</a> </i>It is<i> </i>in their 199 issue that is now in libraries and on the newsstands. </b></div>
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<span style="color: #6699cc; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 15px;"><b>https://cfashionedu.com/</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #336699;">Twitter: </span><a href="https://twitter.com/LaurelHoffmann1" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank"><b>https://twitter.com/LaurelHoffmann1</b></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.85px;">Phone: 215 884 7065</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "bookman old style", serif; font-size: 11pt;">©</span> Laurel Hoffmann, 2018. </div>
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Laurel Hoffmannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00238938109416111092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1445659851534540479.post-83579332078983294112018-08-26T05:41:00.004-07:002018-08-26T05:41:55.341-07:0075: Preparing to Sew Pants<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYWdUyVZdxMOTHBaK2AV7RLPaF6hwGPBjQL5oKiSex0wwcXniJStdi7P2kz2qckE58DiyxLHlJoPHvhGLW-ze_abkDJ-bScym5rGBxpcs6fnJndLl5LAJxMZ1zfME28eAmhNgX5EAoqlw/s1600/pants_back_muslin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="643" data-original-width="300" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYWdUyVZdxMOTHBaK2AV7RLPaF6hwGPBjQL5oKiSex0wwcXniJStdi7P2kz2qckE58DiyxLHlJoPHvhGLW-ze_abkDJ-bScym5rGBxpcs6fnJndLl5LAJxMZ1zfME28eAmhNgX5EAoqlw/s320/pants_back_muslin.jpg" width="149" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">a: Test the pattern in muslin<br />to make sure the pattern<br />fits well. </td></tr>
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<span style="color: blue;">Here are the steps involved in preparing to sew pants</span></h2>
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<b>1. </b>If you are using a new pattern for the first time, even before you buy the fabric,<b><span style="color: blue;"> test the pattern in muslin</span></b>. Then either look in a three-way mirror to see the fit in the back of the pants, or as a trusted friend to tell you have they look. You can also have your friend take a picture of the back of the pants to make sure they fit well (diagram a).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyt7SkQT30bkpGINvImwf2G8Ai2yAIIQgo23PBys4En5t6bdtcBUJsgVlRTMNOwLXang9sBKUymgzFI-Y4Y6agXljG55SGDg_byG4jUhvwWUcs2mfBMc_HUI3SWpGPncejcGdZMdIxOVY/s1600/cutting-pants.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="360" data-original-width="713" height="161" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyt7SkQT30bkpGINvImwf2G8Ai2yAIIQgo23PBys4En5t6bdtcBUJsgVlRTMNOwLXang9sBKUymgzFI-Y4Y6agXljG55SGDg_byG4jUhvwWUcs2mfBMc_HUI3SWpGPncejcGdZMdIxOVY/s320/cutting-pants.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">b: Lay the pants out on the cutting table to determine how much<br />fabric will be needed. </td></tr>
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<b>2. </b>Determine how much fabric you will need to cut the pants. Lay all of the patterns the same direction. This presents the possibility of shading in the finished garment. Sketch the layout on the front pant pattern.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSxtjmJefxItr9y5qQ_URWvSPK6zgcfS36IIW8JJRk71efyCUWjewD9o_bCuEBM1kqzoWMs8WLNJKhr7hoVMarbzZVezS9DE_DZhyphenhyphenL4iRHIZiD4DnqatQ5ulWZ3eW24YB3KSX5-5kNpRk/s1600/inside-swatch-book.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="709" data-original-width="945" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSxtjmJefxItr9y5qQ_URWvSPK6zgcfS36IIW8JJRk71efyCUWjewD9o_bCuEBM1kqzoWMs8WLNJKhr7hoVMarbzZVezS9DE_DZhyphenhyphenL4iRHIZiD4DnqatQ5ulWZ3eW24YB3KSX5-5kNpRk/s200/inside-swatch-book.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">d: Swatch the fabrics in a notebook.<br />Add the length and width of the<br />fabric and where it is stored.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1uMtMfhNPVt3PeoEUkhBT1jkAVcVc-0K8Q0NKjkehnHhCfYNtxHivroOx2wmrg8gkWs9ONrsy2t3DIRG7wmru9sUy7H4l69gRfdM0jLp0xhxp2cT0bzsV_YWC6C-QZV_OJQ8JKFtQV_w/s1600/swatch_book.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1uMtMfhNPVt3PeoEUkhBT1jkAVcVc-0K8Q0NKjkehnHhCfYNtxHivroOx2wmrg8gkWs9ONrsy2t3DIRG7wmru9sUy7H4l69gRfdM0jLp0xhxp2cT0bzsV_YWC6C-QZV_OJQ8JKFtQV_w/s320/swatch_book.jpg" width="240" /></a><br /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">c: Keeping swatches in a swatch book makes<br />it easy to prevent buying fabrics<br />you already have while in a fabric store .</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>3. </b>Before buying the fabric, check fabrics that you already have. A good idea is to have your fabrics inventoried so you can quickly check without going through your stored fabrics.<br />
<br />
Keeping swatches in a swatch book with the fabric's width and length makes it easy to check the fabrics you already have (photo d).<br />
<br />
Write the yardages on the front, needed to cut favorite patterns. Add your contact information so if lost the booklet can be easily returned (photo c).<br />
<br />
<b>4. </b>Consider buying enough fabric (10 yards is a good length) to make not only the pants, but also a top such as a jacket or blouse depending on the fabric's weight, and a skirt. This will provide an ensemble that matches, making it easy to put together a complete outfit whenever needed, for whatever occasion. <a href="http://contemporaryfashioneducation.blogspot.com/search?q=color" target="_blank">Buy a color that matches your color palette.</a> Ask other shoppers in the store if the fabric's color is good for you. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6wADUhZ9utUrXd5uyKATk1sgClF78bRslDgBblel3mvsTyqa1tjcgX_DmnBjuAY1G2L2gJRVhqyfHRV11Z87WbkznGR4O-kD2CdEwZ-2lR1Vja1XDWVmx1zk9C9PC20l3qn3QWa7r35s/s1600/lay-fabric-on-grain.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="338" data-original-width="418" height="161" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6wADUhZ9utUrXd5uyKATk1sgClF78bRslDgBblel3mvsTyqa1tjcgX_DmnBjuAY1G2L2gJRVhqyfHRV11Z87WbkznGR4O-kD2CdEwZ-2lR1Vja1XDWVmx1zk9C9PC20l3qn3QWa7r35s/s200/lay-fabric-on-grain.jpg" width="200" /></a> </td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">e: Check with an L-square to make<br />sure the fabric is on grain.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjhJy8LYNZiyz4dY3n-xMjb7U6SlhjP9lZ0FAIpwVDl-dSqC-nfODMf1XXkYqMRUqVo2ypRQ3Gg_UmZnClcIBNcDHz-hnuvvrRzqHkRhfcQMC9KIfCfQx6iCijYUu7QKxaHJvSgGqSKtk/s1600/steaming-on-grain.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="338" data-original-width="605" height="110" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjhJy8LYNZiyz4dY3n-xMjb7U6SlhjP9lZ0FAIpwVDl-dSqC-nfODMf1XXkYqMRUqVo2ypRQ3Gg_UmZnClcIBNcDHz-hnuvvrRzqHkRhfcQMC9KIfCfQx6iCijYUu7QKxaHJvSgGqSKtk/s200/steaming-on-grain.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">f. If the fabric is badly off grain, pin as shown and steam<br />toward the fold. Stop just before the fold so as not<br />to press a fold into the fabric.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGEMr1BKylUANlaaARN0k3jwd0SEgBMvSt-uThF6ZZ7ELnXLCc5p4usoq3Cjj5zo8KpqxY8krbsAwk8WNixnrpKlvWbl4u48vCJefWd5A2Jy414K3y7_FqzW30WlVP7e4LqLh3tyzSgRE/s1600/cut-on-grain.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="521" data-original-width="734" height="141" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGEMr1BKylUANlaaARN0k3jwd0SEgBMvSt-uThF6ZZ7ELnXLCc5p4usoq3Cjj5zo8KpqxY8krbsAwk8WNixnrpKlvWbl4u48vCJefWd5A2Jy414K3y7_FqzW30WlVP7e4LqLh3tyzSgRE/s200/cut-on-grain.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>g. </b>Cut from right-to-left if right handed,<br />left-to-right if left handed.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b></b><br />
<b>5. </b>Prepare the fabric. Check with an L-square that the fabric is on grain (diagram e).<br />
<br />
<b>6. </b>If the fabric is badly off grain pin then press as shown in diagram f.<br />
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<b>8. </b>Lay the fabric as determined by the previous layout. Refer to the sketch on the front pant pattern (diagram b).<br />
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<b>9. C</b>ut the pants. Cut from right-to-left if right handed, left-to-right if left handed. This way the eyes are always the same distance from the shears. Slide the shears on the table as you cut (diagram g).<br />
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<b><span style="color: blue;"><br /></span></b>
<h2>
<b><span style="color: blue;">More about sewing pants next week.</span></b></h2>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoBZfFOsqH6tOJYSru670XZTYCgXPXm21JlNi620f-kTGGnbwanlM5x6BqUwTap-2yiIMDE0RtJKwaxxiHsi1Oa9sHVWQzrKc5zwdzmUjrryqtKIDtBHsy1kd38y4LAe2s3lHJUqWLRxM/s1600/sewing-pants-cover.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1327" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoBZfFOsqH6tOJYSru670XZTYCgXPXm21JlNi620f-kTGGnbwanlM5x6BqUwTap-2yiIMDE0RtJKwaxxiHsi1Oa9sHVWQzrKc5zwdzmUjrryqtKIDtBHsy1kd38y4LAe2s3lHJUqWLRxM/s200/sewing-pants-cover.png" width="165" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Diagrams for this post are from<br /><i><a href="https://cfashionedu.com/product/sewing-pants-and-skirts/" target="_blank"><b><span style="color: blue;">The Basics for Sewing Pants and Skirts.</span></b></a></i></td></tr>
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Laurel Hoffmannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00238938109416111092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1445659851534540479.post-67251881157424752962018-08-19T03:25:00.000-07:002018-08-19T03:54:05.965-07:0074: How to Measure Crotch Depth<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSMjpQ4xGgMO2r5ES1ePhkkcWxxQ3QIbU9vJnY6hfqTplkQ65I1jl0sAtNyU1o8sXvz8CUbYYr71AGIcCqza4wiZBLAU3K7Nj7fyI4WqishYcyPmNTC5zVjkQf58UFX8fclaMjlV7ZrP0/s1600/pant-book-set--tilted---white-background.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="708" data-original-width="1151" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSMjpQ4xGgMO2r5ES1ePhkkcWxxQ3QIbU9vJnY6hfqTplkQ65I1jl0sAtNyU1o8sXvz8CUbYYr71AGIcCqza4wiZBLAU3K7Nj7fyI4WqishYcyPmNTC5zVjkQf58UFX8fclaMjlV7ZrP0/s320/pant-book-set--tilted---white-background.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<b><span style="color: blue;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: blue;">The information in this post is from </span><i><a href="https://cfashionedu.com/product/drafting-fitting-pants-and-skirts/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><span style="color: magenta;">The Basics for Drafting & Fitting Pants and Skirts.</span></a></i></span></b><b><span style="color: magenta;"> </span></b>Written by an industrial production pattern maker, tested in the college classroom with Continuing Professional Education Students, <span style="color: blue;"><b>the book addresses all custom fit issues, including asymmetrical fit.</b></span> Drafting instructions are included for inserted back pockets, inserted front pockets and front diagonal pockets with pocket stays, lining, and much more.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://cfashionedu.com/product/sweet-deal-both-pant-books/" target="_blank"><b><span style="color: blue;">Combined with its companion book</span><span style="color: magenta;">,</span></b></a> <i><a href="https://cfashionedu.com/product/sewing-pants-and-skirts/" target="_blank"><b><span style="color: magenta;">The Basics for Sewing Pants and Skirts</span></b>,</a> </i>the two books present the step-by-step, classroom-tested information you need to produce professional, beautifully fitted skirts and pants.<br />
<br />
Below is an overview from <b><span style="color: blue;"><i><a href="https://cfashionedu.com/product/drafting-fitting-pants-and-skirts/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"><span style="color: magenta;">The Basics for Drafting & Fitting Pants and Skirts</span><span style="color: blue;">.</span></a></i></span></b> of how to measure, draft, and fit crotch depth:<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><h2>
<span style="color: blue;"><br /></span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="color: blue;">Measuring the crotch depth</span></h2>
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<span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></span></span></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg72SlFHFtSql3CYyA26Bm0n0qjhEk4_jLcUe1CG2J_gJfFXvZ7tIiOS1uwFQenHJe3kDApkB4LCydWSFcQKKbFaGlZVR7dBcqXItrNW0iCoBD7y0OGrxm4c5vL0mkcVrYA48sfdtt15Q0/s1600/seated-figure.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="435" data-original-width="330" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg72SlFHFtSql3CYyA26Bm0n0qjhEk4_jLcUe1CG2J_gJfFXvZ7tIiOS1uwFQenHJe3kDApkB4LCydWSFcQKKbFaGlZVR7dBcqXItrNW0iCoBD7y0OGrxm4c5vL0mkcVrYA48sfdtt15Q0/s200/seated-figure.gif" width="151" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2-16: Measure the crotch depth by <br />
having the person being fitted sit on a chair.<br />
Write the measurement in<br />
cell 18.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPC_WyxSV0YSJ1aaWtkgjAVNqAzNNuDLKi5CWWkkf2lqsgNzwVe0BMPGj1HnmLVF-_TSyZ7rP07jiaHZnLAfy3FwSw1SS-uxk2cn999rCLMk9eg6IDygHqqZjZiZXZIrx7lHgCZV6lDLs/s1600/crotch-measurements---chart.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="643" data-original-width="625" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPC_WyxSV0YSJ1aaWtkgjAVNqAzNNuDLKi5CWWkkf2lqsgNzwVe0BMPGj1HnmLVF-_TSyZ7rP07jiaHZnLAfy3FwSw1SS-uxk2cn999rCLMk9eg6IDygHqqZjZiZXZIrx7lHgCZV6lDLs/s320/crotch-measurements---chart.gif" width="311" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Complete the chart to determine how much depth<br />
should be drafted into the pant pattern.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />
<br />
<ol>
<li><span style="text-align: center;">Have the person being fitted sit on a chair that has no arms. </span>Measure the crotch depth. </li>
<li>Write the measurement in <span style="text-align: center;">cell 19 in </span>Chart 2-17,<i> Crotch Measurements.</i></li>
<li>Add the desired amount of ease in cell 20, usually one inch.</li>
<li>Complete Chart 2-17.</li>
</ol>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2VhnrDS1LB37XZH56pHAmjRu_PDXQ4HhPufSbhCTnut6q-1Dai8PioPEZIVag9LdO3nnfKvr4pMR85yRnBoWkG5vO2uRTdbc0mAXlKOwunSRpxcOC9jTVp9r2nZCy4XEH_zd6p7jRU1s/s1600/standing-figure.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="955" data-original-width="348" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2VhnrDS1LB37XZH56pHAmjRu_PDXQ4HhPufSbhCTnut6q-1Dai8PioPEZIVag9LdO3nnfKvr4pMR85yRnBoWkG5vO2uRTdbc0mAXlKOwunSRpxcOC9jTVp9r2nZCy4XEH_zd6p7jRU1s/s320/standing-figure.gif" width="116" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2-15: The <i>crotch length </i><br />
starts at the body's<br />
center front at the waist,<br />
continues down the<br />
center front, around<br />
the crotch, and up<br />
the center back<br />
to the center back<br />
at the waist.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: blue;">About crotch length</span></h2>
<div>
<span style="color: blue;"><br /></span></div>
<div>
The pattern’s crotch length is the seam that runs down the center front from the waist, under the crotch, and up the center back to the waist. It combines vertical and horizontal lines. The desired crotch length is written in cell 18, in Chart 2-17, for future reference.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The pattern’s crotch length is longer than the body’s crotch length because the pattern’s crotch length includes ease.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
Even if the crotch length is correct, the pants may not fit correctly through the crotch. That is because <b><span style="color: blue;">the crotch length is comprised of both vertical and horizontal measurements.</span></b><br />
<div>
<div>
<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span></div>
<div>
If the front and back vertical measurements are too long, the front and back horizontal measurements will be too short causing the crotch’s curves to pull in under the crotch.</div>
<div>
<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span></div>
<div>
If the front and back vertical measurements are too short, the crotch’s curves will be too high and may cause blousing above the hip line.</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmTBfYwDhJjMWN_4SPRWdOaDsUZSepCriiBTA2S0sR8GezAp6BXxuN1S5CkTxeQgZVLspm_rlyG3k476ZsZ_Cg3nDEth4b9C4AvrX8cn7Vv74nHSRzpX_dJcW1sC8QQM-HMNW-vbVl5Ds/s1600/pattern.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="520" data-original-width="913" height="182" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmTBfYwDhJjMWN_4SPRWdOaDsUZSepCriiBTA2S0sR8GezAp6BXxuN1S5CkTxeQgZVLspm_rlyG3k476ZsZ_Cg3nDEth4b9C4AvrX8cn7Vv74nHSRzpX_dJcW1sC8QQM-HMNW-vbVl5Ds/s320/pattern.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This diagram from <span style="text-align: start;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i style="color: blue; font-weight: bold;">The Basics for Drafting & Fitting Pants and Skirts</i><br /><span style="color: black;">s</span>hows the pant patterns' crotch length drafted over a skirt sloper<br />that was previously fitted on the model. </span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br />
<ol>
</ol>
<h2>
<b><span style="color: blue;">Drafting pants to fit involves three separate </span></b><b><span style="color: blue;">fitting areas</span></b></h2>
<div>
Women have very different fit issues. Fitting pants can be a challenge. Drafting and fitting pants in the classroom with adult women has proven that fitting pants involves three separate fitting areas which are:</div>
<ol style="text-align: center;">
<li style="text-align: left;"><b>The waist to hip</b> <b>area.</b> Draft and correct this area to fit by drafting a skirt sloper (a basic pattern used in the industry to draft patterns for garment styles) to measurements, then cutting and fitting the skirt sloper in muslin.</li>
<li style="text-align: left;"><b>The crotch area.</b> Draft this area from measurements over the skirt sloper, as shown in the diagram above, so as to incorporate the skirt muslin's fit corrections into the pant pattern.</li>
<li style="text-align: left;"><b>The legs.</b> Draft from measurements, then muslin fit the crotch and legs. The crotch area is affected by the fit through the legs. If the inseam at the knee is too tight, it will create pulls at the base of the back crotch area, a common problem seen in mass-produced pants. </li>
</ol>
<div>
<b><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;"> </span></b><br />
<h2>
<span style="color: blue;">Effective drafting, fitting, and sewing pants involves:</span></h2>
<ol>
<li> Careful measuring - charts are needed to record and determine measurements</li>
<li> Skillful fitting - transparent clothing in <i style="color: blue; font-weight: bold; text-align: center;">The Basics for Drafting & Fitting Pants and Skirt</i><i style="color: blue; font-size: small; font-weight: bold; text-align: center;">s </i>shows how the fabric lies over the body.</li>
<li> Precise sewing - step-by-step instructions in <i><b><a href="https://cfashionedu.com/product/sewing-pants-and-skirts/" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue;">The Basics for Sewing Pants and Skirts</span></a> </b></i>show how top seamstresses in the industry's designing departments produce high-end pants.</li>
</ol>
</div>
</div>
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Laurel Hoffmannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00238938109416111092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1445659851534540479.post-39719939756530753202018-08-12T16:43:00.001-07:002018-08-12T16:44:41.215-07:0073: Efficient Feed Dog Usage<div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMEWnOTJnw3dKKJrZZaCpRlAh7qynf_k1VjzWuRMZxjQfbxwOLCVBG3ZERe2adLHFmymkDf2VPdNSQgqbuv2ZxvQbchGdfXQ9nQHoZFpzYd7-A9jGLVWKcdoz56SgWPaCsuxbhJBFI4TQ/s1600/Raised-presser-foot.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="415" data-original-width="343" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMEWnOTJnw3dKKJrZZaCpRlAh7qynf_k1VjzWuRMZxjQfbxwOLCVBG3ZERe2adLHFmymkDf2VPdNSQgqbuv2ZxvQbchGdfXQ9nQHoZFpzYd7-A9jGLVWKcdoz56SgWPaCsuxbhJBFI4TQ/s200/Raised-presser-foot.gif" width="165" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The presser foot and feed dog work together to<br />
feed the fabric through the machine<br />
as the seams are sewn.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h2>
<span style="color: blue;">Effective understanding and use of feed dog speeds the sewing and enables professional results. </span></h2>
<div>
The presser foot and feed dog work together to feed fabric through the machine as the seams are sewn. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
However, the two work differently making several procedures, such as sewing to match and easing in fullness </div>
<div>
easier to do.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggZM9MbZsllME3Pt60OSEEToIo9lyRr5bVUdompSh-5H0DhUdC9TY1LBeyXFgI8XW3lrDXMZuH-X8_9LhoZ-fWeVQq8Oq0iYojsVMg4OF9_IHYZrmVgen4aTqu8fY7QEUPJu-r4-bTu1U/s1600/MVI_4399.MOV" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="240" data-original-width="320" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggZM9MbZsllME3Pt60OSEEToIo9lyRr5bVUdompSh-5H0DhUdC9TY1LBeyXFgI8XW3lrDXMZuH-X8_9LhoZ-fWeVQq8Oq0iYojsVMg4OF9_IHYZrmVgen4aTqu8fY7QEUPJu-r4-bTu1U/s320/MVI_4399.MOV" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The feed dog moves up, then back as it <br />
pulls the fabric through the machine.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<br />
<div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><span style="color: blue;">The feed dog moves up, then back</span></b> as it pulls the fabric through the machine.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="color: blue;">The presser foot lifts slightly, then lowers, </span></b>allowing the feed dog to pull the fabric back as the fabric is sewn together.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5KJJaOXB_bZZVlUdmQDjrM6kHNCvvGmELBOiOX5K4Tv4Bze_j4QvJ6JZufqgJ_BJ1gUIH25cQ0XPZy4xXaS_gtmxa0Ec4225HGBNWAF7Zljxf-YI6CpEtm1GWTJQPAmJA4A_SBg6E0Zk/s1600/MVI_4401.MOV" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5KJJaOXB_bZZVlUdmQDjrM6kHNCvvGmELBOiOX5K4Tv4Bze_j4QvJ6JZufqgJ_BJ1gUIH25cQ0XPZy4xXaS_gtmxa0Ec4225HGBNWAF7Zljxf-YI6CpEtm1GWTJQPAmJA4A_SBg6E0Zk/s320/MVI_4401.MOV" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The presser foot lifts slightly up, then down as the<br />
feed dog moves the fabric back through the machine. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Because the presser foot does NOT move back, <b><span style="color: blue;">if one does not have full control of the sewing </span></b><b><span style="color: blue;">the top ply of fabric will move slower through the machine than the bottom ply of fabric. </span></b><br />
<b><span style="color: blue;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="color: blue;"><br /></span></b>
<span style="color: blue; font-weight: bold;">Sewing notch-to-notch </span>solves this problem.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVvn6kTzFEVj-pv0Cecahc6erJMEkt2F03nd4h8IDLJnO08c6bS1JGj_aCBMddM-v71wIahHShb9KCIyNlprSB9_9gAJMvqdWm3lg1MQil30ElbMdTT7Nt5CwuMoyybEcgFEBGcnGWgtw/s1600/cut-notch.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="540" data-original-width="420" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVvn6kTzFEVj-pv0Cecahc6erJMEkt2F03nd4h8IDLJnO08c6bS1JGj_aCBMddM-v71wIahHShb9KCIyNlprSB9_9gAJMvqdWm3lg1MQil30ElbMdTT7Nt5CwuMoyybEcgFEBGcnGWgtw/s320/cut-notch.gif" width="248" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snip the center of notches<br />
printed on home sewing patterns<br />
so as to be able to align the<br />
two plies of a seam as the plies<br />
are sewn together.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: center;">To prevent the lower ply being sewn faster than the top ply, snip the center of notches that are </span><span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: center;">printed on home sewing patterns. This makes it easier to</span><span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: center;"> align the </span><span style="font-family: inherit; text-align: center;">two plies of a seam as it is sewn. </span><br />
<br />
<h2>
<span style="color: blue;"><br /></span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="color: blue;">There are times when allowing the bottom ply to sew faster than the top ply speeds sewing.</span></h2>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5TT6M2EBwcivIFbjRqhcWqkxnyDbffzvZeVVUm4hY6a3ZRv-TJMZdGs5Fj7cBNX0zJfzIqu6SpdC3HCQAI7WrcA8OTvoqs9OruCaTp9wyH_RJyDfdWsKwCmG8SNcgP27S8Tn1wQTF7DY/s1600/sewing-cap-to-armhole.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="429" data-original-width="555" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5TT6M2EBwcivIFbjRqhcWqkxnyDbffzvZeVVUm4hY6a3ZRv-TJMZdGs5Fj7cBNX0zJfzIqu6SpdC3HCQAI7WrcA8OTvoqs9OruCaTp9wyH_RJyDfdWsKwCmG8SNcgP27S8Tn1wQTF7DY/s320/sewing-cap-to-armhole.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Allow the feed dog to ease in the sleeve cap's fullness<br />
as the sleeve cap is sewn into the armhole.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: blue;"><br /></span></h2>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: blue;">Easing Fullness </span></h2>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Allowing the feed dog to<b><span style="color: blue;"> ease in a sleeve cap's fullness</span></b> speeds sewing. Pin the notches, then pin in the ease. Sew the cap into the armhole before the side seams are sewn. Then sew the side seams. Finally sew the armhole closed where it is still open at the underarm. </div>
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlX823w7FKIYN4sLljJheVwcAPP2VVxoGdsyVW5gE8IzVF_9FY2bWLCB_PaiImJkSg7IAhc_BPn6skrMa-aoLUaHOYLD4xKpS_Ekk4BL8eKvtEGaJEAGIHqWpT0SVkJUsQwXDqkeIzaJI/s1600/Sewing-to-match.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="645" data-original-width="233" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlX823w7FKIYN4sLljJheVwcAPP2VVxoGdsyVW5gE8IzVF_9FY2bWLCB_PaiImJkSg7IAhc_BPn6skrMa-aoLUaHOYLD4xKpS_Ekk4BL8eKvtEGaJEAGIHqWpT0SVkJUsQwXDqkeIzaJI/s320/Sewing-to-match.gif" width="115" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In this diagram<br />
the bottom ply is<br />
shown slightly extended<br />
to the right to<br />
illustrate how the<br />
bottom ply is laid<br />
slightly behind the top<br />
ply before the<br />
seam is sewn.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="color: blue;"><br /></span></b></h2>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="color: blue;"><br /></span></b></h2>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="color: blue;">Sewing to Match</span></b></h2>
<b><span style="color: blue;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="color: blue;">Holding the bottom ply slightly behind the top ply, enables perfect matching. </span></b><br />
<b><span style="color: blue;"><br /></span></b>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">In the diagram on the left the bottom ply is shown slightly extended to the right to illustrate how the bottom ply is laid slightly behind the top ply before the seam is sewn.When sewing to match lay the plies edge-to-edge with the bottom ply laid slightly behind the top ply.</span><br />
<br />
Used in the industry, <b><span style="color: blue;">first test with sample fabric,</span></b> just how much to hold the bottom ply as the fabric moves through the machine.<br />
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Three important considerations:<br />
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1. The garment must be cut to match.<br />
2. The two plies of fabric must be cut on the same angle to the grain line.<br />
3. The fabric cannot be basted or pinned.<br />
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The amount of the bottom ply that is held back varies with different fabrics, but is usually no more than 1/16 of an inch, making the fabric look as if it is about to be miss-matched as it approaches the needle.<br />
<span style="color: blue;"><b><br /></b></span>
<b><span style="color: blue;">As the fabric moves under the needle, the feed dog will pull the bottom ply in, causing the fabric to match perfectly. </span></b><br />
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<b style="font-size: 13.2px;"><b style="font-size: 13.2px;">Your comments are most welcome - <i>Laurel</i></b></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: 13.2px;"><b><a href="https://cfashionedu.com/" style="color: #888888; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank"><span style="color: magenta;">Check out my new website! </span></a></b></span></div>
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<b style="color: blue; font-size: 13.2px;">Look for the article about seam allowance modification that I wrote for <i>Threads Magazine. </i>It will be<i> </i>in their 199 issue that will be on the newsstands in late August (2018). </b></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; line-height: 20.79px;">Pattern making books, sewing b</span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;">ooks and sewing classes:<b><br /></b></span><span style="color: #6699cc; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 15px;"><b>https://cfashionedu.com/</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , serif; font-size: 11pt;">©</span> Laurel Hoffmann, 2018. </div>
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Laurel Hoffmannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00238938109416111092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1445659851534540479.post-25820287799250086282018-08-05T05:35:00.000-07:002018-08-05T16:50:07.302-07:0072: Sustainability<br />
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<span style="color: blue; font-family: inherit;">The fashion/ textile industry is second largest industrial polluter on the planet </span></h2>
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<span style="color: blue; font-family: inherit;">Only to the oil industry pollutes the planet more </span></h2>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">This is a huge concern for the fashion industry and was a major topic at the <span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: blue;"><b><a href="https://apparel-sourcing-usa.us.messefrankfurt.com/new-york/en.html?spMailingID=57061679&spUserID=MjExMDkzNTEwNDMxS0&spJobID=1443120402&spReportId=MTQ0MzEyMDQwMgS2" style="background-color: white; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">Texworld USA and Apparel Sourcing USA trade show at NYC Javit's Center,</a></b></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"> <span style="font-family: inherit;">last week (July 23-25, 2018)</span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">. </span><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0FPB3nMOKF6Ir9rbRHDzfmUSFH22N40Mv1FqizrRZ_vgACAp6LLbqh5GNb0Zv34ZKofqBr0xqqfxGre2xHU7VF-N62jVfa6R81F_6r0e5jB71mVNnfqKUUtfMwzteJ-N3NmvAf5Zxyd4/s1600/suit+ensemble.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="540" data-original-width="720" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0FPB3nMOKF6Ir9rbRHDzfmUSFH22N40Mv1FqizrRZ_vgACAp6LLbqh5GNb0Zv34ZKofqBr0xqqfxGre2xHU7VF-N62jVfa6R81F_6r0e5jB71mVNnfqKUUtfMwzteJ-N3NmvAf5Zxyd4/s200/suit+ensemble.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Americans discard 40 pounds of<br />clothing a year. Buying better, using<br />longer is one solution to this problem.<br />Learning to sew quality clothing<br /> is another. Quality, custom sewn clothing<br />made using high-end industrial<br />procedures, is comfortable, <br />a delight to wear,<br />and will still look new<br />30 years later. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></span>
<b><span style="color: blue;">Some of the reasons for this problem:</span></b><br />
<ol>
<li><span style="color: blue;"><b>Insecticides used in growing cotton result in Texas cotton farmers experiencing a high rate of cancer.</b></span></li>
<li><span style="color: blue;"><b>Many chemicals used to produce synthetic fabrics are toxic</b></span></li>
<li><span style="color: blue;"><b>Polyester fibers are made from oil - clothing made from these fibers stain easily, causing the clothing to be quickly discarded</b></span></li>
<li><span style="color: blue;"><b>Many chemicals used in the finishing of fabrics are toxic. One can smell these chemicals when one enters a clothing or fabric store</b></span></li>
<li><span style="color: blue;"><b>After 50 washings to remove the chemicals, some may still remain</b></span></li>
<li><span style="color: blue;"><b>Dyes can be toxic</b></span></li>
<li><b style="color: blue;">Consumers buy cheap clothing, which has a short life <table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivHhwAFRh83X1NB3HFc-zNEyRJqJCT17cKG-n-mjoWuXQfirUSYTs0-1x0mQZhnrd7ya9rcuC8D0rzF12R2igkvhHbfKTIac2eJshkkoBoCDC6XmtL0r7PBb9Q9e6F4uw1zZHxY4-6scs/s1600/color-analysist_fati.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="695" data-original-width="573" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivHhwAFRh83X1NB3HFc-zNEyRJqJCT17cKG-n-mjoWuXQfirUSYTs0-1x0mQZhnrd7ya9rcuC8D0rzF12R2igkvhHbfKTIac2eJshkkoBoCDC6XmtL0r7PBb9Q9e6F4uw1zZHxY4-6scs/s320/color-analysist_fati.gif" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Color analysis enables better selection of wardrobe<br />
items, and the ability to create a wardrobe<br />
that requires fewer pieces.<br />
<a href="http://contemporaryfashioneducation.blogspot.com/search?q=color+analysis" target="_blank"><span style="color: magenta;">More information</span></a></td></tr>
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span</b></li>
<li><b style="color: blue;">Not all manufactured clothing is purchased, creating waste</b></li>
<li><span style="color: blue;"><b>Global transportation of fabrics and manufactured clothing requires considerable energy, adding to the pollution</b></span></li>
<li><b style="color: blue;"><b style="color: black;"><span style="color: blue;">The average American discards 40 pounds of clothing a year.</span></b></b></li>
<li><b style="color: blue;">Land fills are filling up with discarded clothing</b></li>
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<li><b style="color: blue;">An excessive time frame is needed for discarded synthetic fabrics to decompose</b></li>
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<span style="color: #222222;"><span style="background-color: white;">Sustainability comes up over and over again in the fashion feeds. Here is one I received recently:</span><span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span></span><i style="color: #404040;">Prada will host a conference on sustainability titled </i><a href="https://fashionunited.com/education/schools/prada-yale-and-polytechnic-university-of-milan-to-host-event-on-sustainability/2018073022592" style="color: #404040; font-style: italic;" target="_blank"><b>“Shaping a Sustainable Digital Future”</b>,</a><i style="color: #404040;">in partnership with the Yale School of Management and the Polytechnic University of Milan’s School of Management. Set to take place on </i><b style="color: #404040; font-style: italic;">November 20 </b><i style="color: #404040;">at the Prada Foundation in Milan, this is the second event in Prada’s “Shaping a Future” series of cultural conversations. Launched last year, the initiative aims to bring academics and businesses together to discuss how to build a sustainable future.</i></span><br />
<ul>
<li><i style="color: #404040;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">“‘Shaping a Sustainable Digital Future” will explore the large impact and implications of digitalization on business and societal sustainability”, said Prada in a statement. Representatives from several businesses and institutions will take part in the discussions, which will be attended by the business students from both partner universities.</span></i></li>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBi9wMLEd-4fc7anUT0Ju2RRPpRAUqrw9tMWEAQA2VxIkxckZnF6wUj85ohw1lEbzSTt1MCzRXfU4vVrRcJszm5IcyS6gK26-QjvgiztTpXgemgJTieSKVYjAaGzXWcbR2fvocJHUx94g/s1600/pants.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="540" data-original-width="387" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBi9wMLEd-4fc7anUT0Ju2RRPpRAUqrw9tMWEAQA2VxIkxckZnF6wUj85ohw1lEbzSTt1MCzRXfU4vVrRcJszm5IcyS6gK26-QjvgiztTpXgemgJTieSKVYjAaGzXWcbR2fvocJHUx94g/s200/pants.gif" width="143" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fit is one of the main<br />
reasons so much clothing<br />
is either not purchased<br />
or is discarded.<br />
Far too many manufactured<br />
pants pull in the crotch.<br />
<b><a href="https://cfashionedu.com/product/drafting-fitting-pants-and-skirts/" target="_blank"><span style="color: magenta;">A custom fitted pants pattern solves that problem.<br /><i>Drafting & Fitting Pants and Skirts</i></span></a></b><br />
shows how to draft to <br />
prevent pulls under the crotch.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<ul>
<li><i style="color: #404040;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">But you don’t have to study at Yale or the Polytechnic University of Milan to <nobr style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; font-size: inherit;"><a class="pxInta" href="https://fashionunited.com/education/schools/prada-yale-and-polytechnic-university-of-milan-to-host-event-on-sustainability/2018073022592#" id="PXLINK_1_0_1" style="background-color: transparent; border-bottom-color: rgb(28, 125, 255); border-bottom-style: solid; border-width: 0px 0px 1px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #1c7dff; display: inline; font-size: inherit; padding-bottom: 1px;">watch</a></nobr><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 18px;"> </span><span style="background-color: white;">the conference, as it will also be live-streamed on Prada’s website. More information about the live-streaming, as well as the event's program and speakers, is to published on Prada's website soon. ##</span></span></i></li>
</ul>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #404040;">At the trade </span>show's<span style="color: #404040;"> seminar, </span><i style="color: #404040;">Consumer Engagement and Shifting Consumer Preferences, </i><span style="color: #404040;">Bruce Thomson, Co-founder and CEO of </span><a href="https://www.mybrightlabel.com/" target="_blank">Bright Label</a><span style="color: #404040;">, discussed how he is working to bring transparency to manufacturers' clothing labels. </span></span><br />
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<i style="color: #404040;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #404040;">As stated in his seminar's description he said: </span><i style="color: #404040;">Increasingly, brands are investing in sustainable sourcing, certified materials, and transparency; meanwhile, consumers, especially millennials, are demonstrating a greater desire to know more about how their clothes were made before they buy. </i><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://apparel-sourcing-usa.us.messefrankfurt.com/content/dam/messefrankfurt-usa/apparel-sourcing-usa/july2018/pdfs/APP1807SeminarSchedule.pdf" target="_blank">Texworld USA Summer 2018 - Seminar Series Schedule</a>.</span></span><br />
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<b style="font-size: 13.2px;"><b style="font-size: 13.2px;">Your comments are most welcome - <i>Laurel</i></b></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: 13.2px;"><b><span style="text-decoration-line: none;"><a href="https://cfashionedu.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: magenta;">Check out my new website! </span></a></span></b></span></div>
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<b style="color: blue; font-size: 13.2px;">Look for the article about seam allowance modification that I wrote for <i>Threads Magazine. </i>It will be<i> </i>in their 199 issue that will be on the newsstands in late August (2018). </b></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;"></span><span style="color: #336699;">Twitter: <a href="https://twitter.com/LaurelHoffmann1" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank"><b>https://twitter.com/LaurelHoffmann1</b></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , serif; font-size: 11pt;">©</span> Laurel Hoffmann, 2018. </div>
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Laurel Hoffmannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00238938109416111092noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1445659851534540479.post-37335987758831999782018-07-28T08:27:00.005-07:002018-07-31T03:27:05.565-07:0071: Producing a Fashion Line in America<div style="text-align: right;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgudkb-W-YaMuaUKVcGeCRRoZeDBLrrM1jSXsdM0Y6YBqoRjfcH8ocgRUzs3fauRe4VJB-5N576USUMPCWx6qjDRiQmZl-h1JCRYLVWUGjwJL3vZoGBdISburGy340lZsU4K3Wx1PtKzlk/s1600/01+Santa+open+bk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1449" data-original-width="1600" height="289" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgudkb-W-YaMuaUKVcGeCRRoZeDBLrrM1jSXsdM0Y6YBqoRjfcH8ocgRUzs3fauRe4VJB-5N576USUMPCWx6qjDRiQmZl-h1JCRYLVWUGjwJL3vZoGBdISburGy340lZsU4K3Wx1PtKzlk/s320/01+Santa+open+bk.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: 12.8px;">Santa Clothes, </i><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">a make-believe line <br />of high-end children's </span><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">clothing I designed <br />while auditing a class at Jefferson University.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />
The <i><b><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">How to Produce a Fashion Line in America in 2018 and Where American Manufacturing is Headed</span></b> </i>seminar was the primary reason I attended the <a href="https://apparel-sourcing-usa.us.messefrankfurt.com/new-york/en.html?spMailingID=57061679&spUserID=MjExMDkzNTEwNDMxS0&spJobID=1443120402&spReportId=MTQ0MzEyMDQwMgS2" target="_blank">Texworld USA and Apparel Sourcing USA trade show at the Javits Center in New York City</a>, Wednesday, July 25, 2018.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="color: blue;">The <a href="https://apparel-sourcing-usa.us.messefrankfurt.com/content/dam/messefrankfurt-usa/apparel-sourcing-usa/july2018/pdfs/APP1807SeminarSchedule.pdf" target="_blank"> seminar</a> was terrific! Now I'm going to share what I learned with you!</span></b><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<b><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">The panel:</span></b><br />
<br />
The moderator was <b>Christine Daal, </b>Fashion Business and Career Coach, Image Consultant plus Stylist from<a href="https://fashionangelwarrior.com/" target="_blank"> <b><span style="color: magenta;">Fashion Angel Warrior LLC.</span></b></a><br />
<br />
The panel consisted of three representatives from three companies:<br />
<b>Laura Dotolo</b>, managing principal at <a href="http://www.clutchmadefactory.com/" target="_blank"><b><span style="color: magenta;">Clutch Made</span></b></a>; <b>Anthony Lilore,</b> Ambassador plus Sustainability All-Store from <a href="https://www.restoreclothing.com/" target="_blank"><b><span style="color: magenta;">Restore Clothing</span></b></a>; and <b>Eric Beroff,</b> President at <a href="http://www.spoiledrottenusa.com/" target="_blank"><b><span style="color: magenta;">Spoiled Rotten USA,</span> Inc.</b> </a><br />
<br />
<span style="color: blue;"><b>All four companies help entrepreneurs with producing a line locally. </b></span><br />
If I were to decide to produce a line, I would engage one of their companies. I found all of them to be knowledgeable, supportive, eager to answer any and all questions, and wonderful to work with.<br />
<br />
<h2>
<span style="color: blue;">Advantages/disadvantages of producing in the USA</span></h2>
The panel pointed out the <b><span style="color: blue;">advantages of producing clothing here in the USA </span></b>including:<br />
quality control, communication, small minimums, faster speed to market, and greener results/less pollution.<br />
<br />
Some <span style="color: blue; font-weight: bold;">garments</span> are<span style="color: blue; font-weight: bold;"> too expensive to produce in the USA </span><b><span style="color: blue;">because they are too difficult and too laborious:</span></b> garments with hand beading, T-shirts for $20, garments with no seams, polo shirts with knitted collars, garments with many pieces.<br />
<br />
<h2>
<span style="color: blue;">Keep it simple when producing in the USA</span></h2>
<div>
Engineer for efficiency. Make something simple, and make it here in the USA.<br />
The USA is about innovation.</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>Small number of pieces in a garment.</li>
<li>One or two items - a line of clothing is not a good idea</li>
<li>Reduce the number of colors, fabrics, and trims.</li>
<li>No lining if possible</li>
<li>Minimal garment details</li>
<li>Reduce the number of sizes</li>
<li>Quantity - the lower the quantity, the higher the cost</li>
<li>Be organized and prepared - if you need a lot of help, the factory may not want to work with you.</li>
<li>Do online inspections, if possible find a factory that does all under one roof</li>
<li>Remember that human beings are making 90% of your product</li>
</ul>
</div>
<h2>
<span style="color: blue;">What you need to know about manufacturing your product</span></h2>
<div>
<ul>
<li>You need to take responsibility for your business</li>
<li>Manufactures take big customers' orders first - four to six weeks may not be enough lead time</li>
<li>Have to be put on the manufacturer's schedule</li>
<li>Not all factories are honest</li>
<li>Not all factories made good products - ask to see samples of their work</li>
<li>Do research, see if the factory can make your product</li>
<li>If you have a wide range of products you probably won't find a factory that can do everything</li>
<li>Most factories are not vertical - they don't do everything start to finish (<a href="http://www.clutchmadefactory.com/" target="_blank"><b><span style="color: magenta;">Clutch Made</span></b></a> DOES offer this—and this is what sets Clutch apart)</li>
<li>A lot of factories don't do the cutting in house because they can't afford the space</li>
<li>Don't quit your day job</li>
<li>Prepare a budget</li>
<li>Don't make the mistake of thinking manufacturing is easy</li>
<li>Forget about designing socks - USA is one of the world's top manufacturers of socks -their huge orders mean you won't be considered</li>
<li>Most factories want to make a sample, even if you supply one. They want to know first hand just what is involved in making your product</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div>
<h2>
<span style="color: blue;">Red flags</span></h2>
</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>If the factory can start right away they aren't busy enough <br />(<a href="http://www.clutchmadefactory.com/" target="_blank"><b><span style="color: magenta;">Clutch Made</span></b></a> can get most people started right away, as they offer Design Consults, tech packs, sourcing, sample making, social media, production: so there are other avenues in the process which are extremely necessary to get started on—so this is NOT a RED FLAG for the platform that they offer with their factory services.)</li>
<li>Ask for the factory's certification. If the factory isn't certified, look elsewhere.</li>
</ul>
</div>
<h2>
<b> <span style="color: blue;">What you need to get an estimate from a factory</span></b></h2>
<ul>
<li>Go to a consultant - go with the consultant to the factory she recommends. <span style="color: blue;"><b>Many factories won't see a start-up unless with a consultant</b></span></li>
<li>Find out if the factory can make your product</li>
<li>Set up an appointment to see the factory - don't show up unannounced</li>
<li>Ask <i>What is your specialization?</i></li>
<li>Show a sample - it can be someone else's sample - to give the factory an idea of what you want made</li>
<li>Prepare a <a href="https://makersrow.com/blog/2013/11/what-is-a-tech-pack/" target="_blank"><b><span style="color: magenta;">tech pack</span></b></a> which should include Specs - the product's measurements, yardage, number of pieces, choice of fabric; and a sketch of the product</li>
<li>Don't ask the factory to sign a non-disclosure agreement (NDA)</li>
<li>Have a list of questions, follow up with a thank you email</li>
<li>Don't make crazy demands</li>
<li>Take responsibility for your business</li>
<li>Ask questions - keep it moving</li>
<li>Don't ask for price points on many designs - just one price point will give the idea of costs</li>
<li>Ask right in the beginning, <i>What happens if many of the garments are damaged?</i></li>
</ul>
<h2>
<span style="color: blue;">How to work with the factory</span></h2>
<div>
<ul>
<li>View your relationship with the factory as a partnership</li>
<li>Be in the factory to make sure the garments are made correctly</li>
<li>Get samples, either while in the factory, or ask the factory to send samples</li>
</ul>
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_SLnByzsGiIaf0T7ZxVGNCk7mBaijYKlFeDAmlQl5n_oLrt5aOG4lxHeEsPfzeDqsG1cW2XmSYnv4bqhknQAPmYLnLs3qP-P9RWqj1x3LbcdAzLRMXIwEOSYFHdy9zJ1UTNEgQKRytNc/s1600/jeans+board.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1019" data-original-width="1600" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_SLnByzsGiIaf0T7ZxVGNCk7mBaijYKlFeDAmlQl5n_oLrt5aOG4lxHeEsPfzeDqsG1cW2XmSYnv4bqhknQAPmYLnLs3qP-P9RWqj1x3LbcdAzLRMXIwEOSYFHdy9zJ1UTNEgQKRytNc/s320/jeans+board.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A concept board used to present ideas of possible garments<br />
that a buyer might consider for sale in her store.<br />
Showing concept boards to buyers before making samples<br />
saves time and effort. Buyers have bought garments directly from<br />
established manufactures' concept boards before any of the garments were<br />
cut and sewn.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; text-align: center;">
<b style="font-size: 13.2px;"><br /></b></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; text-align: center;">
<b style="font-size: 13.2px;">Thanks for reading.</b></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; text-align: center;">
<b style="font-size: 13.2px;"><b style="font-size: 13.2px;"><br /></b><b style="font-size: 13.2px;">Your comments are most welcome - <i>Laurel</i></b></b></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;">
<span style="font-size: 13.2px;"><b><a href="https://cfashionedu.com/" target="_blank"><span style="color: magenta;">My new website is up. </span></a></b></span></div>
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<div style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;">
<b style="color: blue; font-size: 13.2px;">Look for the article about seam allowance modification that I wrote for <i>Threads Magazine. </i>It will be<i> </i>in their 199 issue that will be on the newsstands in late August (2018). </b></div>
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<b style="color: #222222; font-size: 13.2px;"><br /></b></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; line-height: 20.79px;">B</span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;">ooks:<b> </b></span><span style="color: #6699cc; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 15px;"><b>https://cfashionedu.com/</b></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: 20.79px; text-align: center;">
Facebook:<b> <a href="http://www.facebook.com/CFashionEdu" style="color: #6699cc; font-family: Arial; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; text-align: start; text-decoration-line: none;">www.facebook.com/CFashionEdu</a></b><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;"></span><br />
<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;"></span><span style="color: #336699;">Twitter: <a href="https://twitter.com/LaurelHoffmann1" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank"><b>https://twitter.com/LaurelHoffmann1</b></a></span></div>
<h4 class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px; margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.5in; position: relative; text-align: center;">
<a href="mailto:Laurelhoffmann@comcast.net" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">email</a></h4>
<div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: 23.1px; text-align: center;">
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Phone: 215 884 7065</div>
<div align="center" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: 20.79px;">
<span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , serif; font-size: 11pt;">©</span> Laurel Hoffmann, 2018. </div>
Laurel Hoffmannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00238938109416111092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1445659851534540479.post-69469252795502066832018-07-04T07:13:00.003-07:002018-07-04T07:23:46.618-07:0070: The Prom Dress<div class="mentions-texteditor__content" style="background: 0px 0px rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; color: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.9); font-family: -apple-system, system-ui, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, "Helvetica Neue", "Fira Sans", Ubuntu, Oxygen, "Oxygen Sans", Cantarell, "Droid Sans", "Lucida Grande", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif, "Apple Color Emoji", "Segoe UI Emoji", "Segoe UI Emoji", "Segoe UI Symbol", "Hiragino Kaku Gothic Pro", Meiryo, "Hiragino Sans GB W3", "Noto Naskh Arabic", "Droid Arabic Naskh", "Geeza Pro", "Simplified Arabic", "Noto Sans Thai", Thonburi, Dokchampa, "Droid Sans Thai", "Droid Sans Fallback", ".SFNSDisplay-Regular", "Heiti SC", "Microsoft Yahei"; font-size: 16px; line-height: 24px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWfmefSqVgRXsNST_I2IAG57h3YzSNqr58P6C9yjphkKuuwhAEqGvcOHeb84-xAAuhTM9sUlzutUHCorMHFNwGbODqo0oRiPPnxW36LqwsPRiHcVA3Ajz4TD05JTwAV_QjY_WR5A0VySE/s1600/shira-prom-gown.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="271" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWfmefSqVgRXsNST_I2IAG57h3YzSNqr58P6C9yjphkKuuwhAEqGvcOHeb84-xAAuhTM9sUlzutUHCorMHFNwGbODqo0oRiPPnxW36LqwsPRiHcVA3Ajz4TD05JTwAV_QjY_WR5A0VySE/s640/shira-prom-gown.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shira, the evening of the prom.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
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Shira wanted something really special for her prom. <br />She designed her gown.</div>
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvBB0_jJsyvR0LMVFcvhDTuHejPdtBBLGl65-A0cAlkH_IYTfJqwp9H1ZfgCz37_jIwTXq4XnVmCvSkJzVc-TIelJr87kE45EPK_Ep2kaJHCyKMD41VCTOjFbYxzFX7te0sPtRatSvsYM/s1600/canvas.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="392" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvBB0_jJsyvR0LMVFcvhDTuHejPdtBBLGl65-A0cAlkH_IYTfJqwp9H1ZfgCz37_jIwTXq4XnVmCvSkJzVc-TIelJr87kE45EPK_Ep2kaJHCyKMD41VCTOjFbYxzFX7te0sPtRatSvsYM/s400/canvas.gif" width="217" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Always test!</b> The canvas' seam had to be lapped<br />
as it would have caused ridges in the bodice if sewn<br />
the traditional way seams are sewn.<br />
The canvas fits Shira, the reason it doesn't fit the form.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
Designing the Bodice to Fit</h2>
<div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlPeb1lrPrJFPw_IXmKmHHrDZtUeHeBcDP-ZJeUJ6stdAMgHeqgjuvZoWGSoJSZm6dG4HGORisH4LI1t7zUgM2HMbGydzfUhGZjcaWVxY2TiLjYPGh5AzoQLHXReYeM3VmXloAR7URjGE/s1600/prom+side+view+bodice+and+sleeve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlPeb1lrPrJFPw_IXmKmHHrDZtUeHeBcDP-ZJeUJ6stdAMgHeqgjuvZoWGSoJSZm6dG4HGORisH4LI1t7zUgM2HMbGydzfUhGZjcaWVxY2TiLjYPGh5AzoQLHXReYeM3VmXloAR7URjGE/s320/prom+side+view+bodice+and+sleeve.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drafting to fit, then testing in muslin is essential<br />
if the bodice is to fit the bust correctly.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Using canvas to support a strapless bodice works well. But there are cautions. The bodice pattern must be fitted to the model's bust. The seam line on both sides of the seam must be EXACTLY the same length, and MUST be tested in canvas, as shown in the picture, before making the actual canvas bodice. The seam allowance should be 3/8 inch wide. Make sure to test the seam, as shown in the diagram above, before cutting the canvas bodice. </div>
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Sewing the canvas requires a machine that can handle stiff fabric. The seam sews best if it is clipped before it is sewn, then lapped as it is sewn. Sew up to just before the bust point. Then sew in from the armhole into the previous seam. Finally stay stitch the seam allowances in place. </div>
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The result is a custom-fitted bodice that stays perfectly in place.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin_jGcM9pN50DVa5EY9DoKLB1F6xf0EtDR2Dynfn_6DF2zX4ANEb_e4KHDLDwjRXIdFCcO1OZnz8MBM2HzpKk2H6PV36huyGzf0NxhgpbYHnMqbkHY9uNyPsZLmmCnxGWdA9OomKixwE8/s1600/sewing-lace.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="540" data-original-width="876" height="197" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin_jGcM9pN50DVa5EY9DoKLB1F6xf0EtDR2Dynfn_6DF2zX4ANEb_e4KHDLDwjRXIdFCcO1OZnz8MBM2HzpKk2H6PV36huyGzf0NxhgpbYHnMqbkHY9uNyPsZLmmCnxGWdA9OomKixwE8/s320/sewing-lace.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The lace was sewn to two plies of tullenette to give the lace the<br />
stiffening it needs. This enabled the lace flowers to stand in relief.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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</h2>
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Sewing the Lace Embellishment</h2>
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Inexpensive lace was used to create the separate sleeves' embellishments. The edges of the lace was trimmed away. the lace was then sewn to two plies of tullenette (see picture on the left, above). The lace was then cut in half. One half was laid over the second half. The top half's flowers were gathered and pearls sewn (with a beading needle) into their centers. The top half's flowers were sewn to the bottom half's flowers.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif9BmRO2sRAcNpbohbGi1_Dk2NIBn1pzoLmI24iYh5YapiyXJS3-ezjkHGzOVUEJ8hmGCgbWEsSuJKTsp5GC8jColTmy4HvRvPHB7daml2Yu07a2znYjDfc1oM11NhxhQ6wTQ-Yb2nNRk/s1600/enhanced+lace.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="586" data-original-width="1600" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif9BmRO2sRAcNpbohbGi1_Dk2NIBn1pzoLmI24iYh5YapiyXJS3-ezjkHGzOVUEJ8hmGCgbWEsSuJKTsp5GC8jColTmy4HvRvPHB7daml2Yu07a2znYjDfc1oM11NhxhQ6wTQ-Yb2nNRk/s640/enhanced+lace.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The finished lace before it was sewn to the sleeves.</td></tr>
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Finally the lace surrounding the top half's flowers were cut away and discarded, allowing the top flowers to stand out in relief.</div>
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<b>What's happening:</b></div>
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<ul>
<li>Still working furiously to hopefully have <i style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; text-align: center;">Grading to Fit, </i><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px; text-align: center;">and its sequel, </span><i style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; text-align: center;">Grading and Sewing a Blouse </i><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px; text-align: center;">ready for sale by the end of this year, hopefully sooner. </span></li>
</ul>
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<ul>
<li>My new, professional website should be up by the end of July, or sooner. </li>
</ul>
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<ul>
<li><b style="color: blue; font-size: 13.2px;">Look for the article about seam allowance modification that I wrote for <i>Threads Magazine </i>in their 199 issue that will be on the newsstands in late August (2018). </b></li>
</ul>
</div>
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<b style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;"><br /></b></div>
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<b style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;"><b style="font-size: 13.2px;">Thanks for reading.</b></b></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;"><b style="font-size: 13.2px;"><br /></b><b style="font-size: 13.2px;">Your comments are most welcome - <i>Laurel</i></b></b></div>
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<br style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;" /></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; line-height: 20.79px;">B</span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;">ooks:<b> </b></span><b style="color: #333333; font-size: 14.85px;"><span style="color: #336699; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;"><a href="http://www.laurelhoffmann.com/" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration-line: none;">www.ContemporaryFashionEducation.com</a></span><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;"> </span></b></div>
<div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: 20.79px; text-align: center;">
Facebook:<b> <a href="http://www.facebook.com/CFashionEdu" style="color: #6699cc; font-family: Arial; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; text-align: start; text-decoration-line: none;">www.facebook.com/CFashionEdu</a></b><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;"></span><br />
<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;"></span><span style="color: #336699;">Twitter: <a href="https://twitter.com/LaurelHoffmann1" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank"><b>https://twitter.com/LaurelHoffmann1</b></a></span></div>
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<a href="mailto:Laurelhoffmann@comcast.net" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">email</a></h4>
<div style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: 23.1px; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
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Phone: 215 884 7065</div>
<div align="center" style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: 20.79px;">
<span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , serif; font-size: 11pt;">©</span> Laurel Hoffmann, 2018. <span style="background-color: transparent;"> </span></div>
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Laurel Hoffmannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00238938109416111092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1445659851534540479.post-46945942003520666092018-06-04T14:46:00.000-07:002018-06-04T14:46:09.518-07:0069: Why learn sample making - sewing as done in industry?<br />
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Several years ago I was talking about skill levels and the need for fashion
education within the membership of a sewing group I had joined.</div>
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I asked a close friend and member, <em><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";">Pam, I</span></em><strong><i><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";"> have sold a higher
percentage of books to the membership, than any other market.</span></i></strong><em><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";"> Yet the </span></em><strong><i><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";">local members never take
any of the courses in my program.</span></i></strong><em><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";"> My courses are written for
cottage entrepreneurs.</span></em><strong><i><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";">
I can't understand it.</span></i></strong><em><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";">
I can see that various members have problems with their designing and sewing,
and they talk about it, and I am sitting right there! I know exactly what
to do to correct the problem, but </span></em><strong><i><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";">no one asks me ANYthing. WHY?</span></i></strong><em><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";">
</span></em><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<strong><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";">Pam
replied,</span></strong> <em><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";">That's
because </span></em><strong><i><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";">they
think industrial has nothing to do with them.</span></i></strong><o:p></o:p></div>
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Now I don't consider myself to be naive, and I know
that many who do custom sewing are not impressed with what is on
the mass market, but this was new information to me. <strong><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";">I was stunned!</span></strong><o:p></o:p></div>
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Pam then told me that I should tell them even though they
don't ask me. Pam can do that because she
started the group and was working in <i>haute couture. </i>The members related to that. They saw her as someone to look up to and respect.</div>
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But I was reluctant to do that as I have learned that people can be very sensitive about
their sewing. Some would prefer not to know, or think they do know, even if
that is not the case. They get upset and feel put down if information is
volunteered. <strong><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";">Many
are convinced that home sewing is far superior to industrial </span></strong>-
which may be true if you are looking at the worst on the market. </div>
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But <strong><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";">what I have seen the industry
produce</span></strong>, having been fortunate enough to work with high-end
garments and people so skilled what they produced was incredible,<strong><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";"> is way beyond anything most
people imagine of the industry.</span></strong> Overall the industry is hardly <em><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";">down and dirty - </span></em>although
there is plenty of that as well. <o:p></o:p></div>
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The truth is, the procedures used in design rooms to produce
high-end clothing are the procedures any professional would use whether working
in an industrial design room, sewing for wealthy clients, or sewing at
home for oneself and/or family. </div>
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That is why my program is open to home sewers,
design room personnel, students, anybody who wants to learn more about sewing.
It is open to everyone because <strong><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";">all
need to learn the same skills.</span></strong> All students should learn
high-end because that is the most difficult. Once those skills are in place,
students can easily figure out how to produce the product less expensively. In
the industry bottom line determines the level of quality. <strong><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";">High-end</span></strong>
requires the least machinery to produce, and <strong><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";">is the easiest to produce in the home, but the
skills must be in place, of course.</span></strong><o:p></o:p></div>
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Here is <strong><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";">an
example of sample making:</span></strong> Whe I wrote this I had almost finished a
new blouse. It was a black poly no-wrinkle faille with
white daises - in other words, although I love silk, I chose fabric I could live
with and that required low maintenance. First I traced the commercial (home sewing) pattern, then drafted in additional bust darting, finally I custom graded the pattern to my coordinates, which eliminated any fittings. The book that shows how to do that should be on the market before the end of this year (2018).</div>
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The blouse was then cut to match
sandwiched between tracing paper. The blouse has long
sleeves, self-fabric corded mandarin collar and cuffs, black frogs (I had
them so I didn't make them), lingerie straps, French seams, and armhole seams
bound with self-fabric. The hem is hand-rolled. To accommodate the frogs, the
lappage is 1/4 inch less on the right than on the left front - in the industry
a standard procedure with buttons as well, especially with jackets. <strong><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";">This blouse is typical
of garments I worked on when I was in the industry. </span></strong><strong><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";">I made it at home and you can too!</span></strong></div>
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<strong><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , "serif";"><br /></span></strong></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;">The website at </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #336699; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;"><a href="http://www.laurelhoffmann.com/" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration-line: none;"><b>www.ContemporaryFashionEducation.com</b></a></span><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;"> is currently being professionally upgraded, the new website should be online the middle or end of June, 2018.</span></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyOe0K-2HwocWEWlkKYne8mF7RUCPt9hfbNujHTyAo92IXqbPb7MmadmTXrYJ8LWpReD93QNZhkio6frYWEM_N23KRgyG0ieFcw4x-2z5FZjU19X0lzyss0wMGrGfHnbqDJRwpe5FIJvA/s1600/fit-blouse-covers-black-background.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="993" data-original-width="1600" height="395" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyOe0K-2HwocWEWlkKYne8mF7RUCPt9hfbNujHTyAo92IXqbPb7MmadmTXrYJ8LWpReD93QNZhkio6frYWEM_N23KRgyG0ieFcw4x-2z5FZjU19X0lzyss0wMGrGfHnbqDJRwpe5FIJvA/s640/fit-blouse-covers-black-background.gif" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Grading to Fit's </i>over 400 pages is an encyclopedia of grading information.<br />It includes the information you need to know to choose your correct pattern size, correct its fit, and determine<br />grading coordinates you can use to eliminate most fittings.<br /><i><br />Grading and Sewing A Blouse </i>shows how to prepare home sewing blouse patterns and then grade them to fit,<br />enabling you to produce truly professional clothing like that sold in the better, high-end stores. <i> </i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;">I'm working furiously to hopefully have <i>Grading to Fit, </i>and its sequel, <i>Grading and Sewing a Blouse </i>ready for sale by the end of this year, hopefully sooner. </span></span></div>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
An article I wrote for <i>Threads Magazine </i>will be published in their 199 issue that will be on the newsstands in late August (2018). </div>
<b style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;"><br /></b><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;"></span><b style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;">Bye for now, thanks for reading - <i>Laurel</i></b><br />
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<br />Laurel Hoffmannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00238938109416111092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1445659851534540479.post-58893537749233842192018-03-07T07:14:00.000-08:002018-03-07T07:19:30.171-08:0068: Philadelphia Flower Show - 2018<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The Philadelphia Flower Show's theme this year is <i>Wonders of Water.</i><br />
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Held in the Convention Center in Philadelphia, it is the largest indoor flower show in the world.<br />
In spite of a blizzard the previous day, which caused electrical outage of thousands of businesses and homes in the region, and local train stoppage, the flower show opened, Saturday, March 3, as usual, to record crowds. My friend and I drove, taking detours to avoid fallen trees, so as not to miss the preview Saturday morning that was open to members of the Horticultural Society. When we left at noon the first floor of the Civic Center was packed with people waiting to enter.<br />
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Today, Wednesday, March 7, we are in the midst of a snowstorm. People who have bought tickets for today have been told the tickets will be good any of the remaining days of the show. My guess is that most have gone, thinking the crowds may be less.<br />
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Here are pictures and videos:<br />
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As one entered the scene was of rain forest and its scents and sounds.<br />
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Water gardens were everywhere.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR5WBlG8kk4id9On06-9Z_nLofR0lf31Z9ujKtEmuK87Uc2ch2MU7m5iXIe0nAfqow-grDtucJZRiOwiwr659q0R9-nHFNmuL2CnJkTNMFxgKWIOPFY4fmwxb_NqQblictk66CyvbnI2A/s1600/IMG_3926.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR5WBlG8kk4id9On06-9Z_nLofR0lf31Z9ujKtEmuK87Uc2ch2MU7m5iXIe0nAfqow-grDtucJZRiOwiwr659q0R9-nHFNmuL2CnJkTNMFxgKWIOPFY4fmwxb_NqQblictk66CyvbnI2A/s640/IMG_3926.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7gu5Z4zfzHUdNwZwdQwcl6a22vZwym5bGzhCGOW1GQ4N28AHNiu-IJss5jV8hs4EE-ELVfl5s0LJ2EQzzqYHPE_HBLN2VsyNIDwrmvk49sGqJART9kNcFzoKzl1CKxCs3UJP2Ip5zK_w/s1600/IMG_3936.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7gu5Z4zfzHUdNwZwdQwcl6a22vZwym5bGzhCGOW1GQ4N28AHNiu-IJss5jV8hs4EE-ELVfl5s0LJ2EQzzqYHPE_HBLN2VsyNIDwrmvk49sGqJART9kNcFzoKzl1CKxCs3UJP2Ip5zK_w/s640/IMG_3936.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dyLXm7CIiRtLc3zQCGbNiHBKI-71iSqEu1zyOeVqH6KhQBsKEIJ0QiEzeJyPuOxLqlbn5HZN_o7xKFKvcT0YA' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo7PM5_CoYj9eGiLk_ZIvj9bedvZ00kpSD0yH8KWjq-Qq88eWmRRLAVjSnod2WBm9PewrHM1z7Kv3N56tfIl3sXBIy8-YF0i4p74OcIzb3uEGg01fwNyKwgIidvwJD3eKtoDZo32GFdMs/s1600/IMG_3940.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo7PM5_CoYj9eGiLk_ZIvj9bedvZ00kpSD0yH8KWjq-Qq88eWmRRLAVjSnod2WBm9PewrHM1z7Kv3N56tfIl3sXBIy8-YF0i4p74OcIzb3uEGg01fwNyKwgIidvwJD3eKtoDZo32GFdMs/s640/IMG_3940.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An example of problems caused by climate change. The sign is enlarged below.</td></tr>
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Climate change was addressed<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbTlkk61spPL0sM6B27R8scqd1JmXQWLLwO1LJz2ecQmrjjABsPYkPKpVvyQuvgc5DOmXGDf_TMBis3Q791QQgbIHcq3LB5N6Xz2aeSHW-p79BIiBHV4cTPmqPwWb9cBpSKsy7asSrZiY/s1600/IMG_3939.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbTlkk61spPL0sM6B27R8scqd1JmXQWLLwO1LJz2ecQmrjjABsPYkPKpVvyQuvgc5DOmXGDf_TMBis3Q791QQgbIHcq3LB5N6Xz2aeSHW-p79BIiBHV4cTPmqPwWb9cBpSKsy7asSrZiY/s320/IMG_3939.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The enlarged sign, shown in the photo above.<br />
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More ponds<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dxRO_p4ntDZ8QvQLCbR6rKXeHT7liRB7E24dm7iK9OeGOoK6YhYCVNfxn27Y3IBwo7kx-ehrz4vqVkrjxwnmw' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLnJeAG9N2dQKEoBNLauTuS9_-jyddU4YM70cvQDKrGAnTWSG_ul8v1So4cjq9hn4yJY8J12PaeSlkQs3WXrEIZ_2TMpL_GIgzPhm0s-1LRj6Fd8JSmzFybIcsUnZi_EA7QpxSbbuexLA/s1600/IMG_3953.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1202" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLnJeAG9N2dQKEoBNLauTuS9_-jyddU4YM70cvQDKrGAnTWSG_ul8v1So4cjq9hn4yJY8J12PaeSlkQs3WXrEIZ_2TMpL_GIgzPhm0s-1LRj6Fd8JSmzFybIcsUnZi_EA7QpxSbbuexLA/s640/IMG_3953.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The show is huge! Here is a display featuring a boat.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL41C3AmTJXsFnOjV-KMrgRu0PSuGwam5k5KZwseC6CfduxJuFxDJbaMYjiV44RggQuj4zjlQ4639V3yolEKYK5ajhzFWwJWVygxS2f95NHvGmTdLqJ-YohLphBHqJWEgt3enFy14r7-w/s1600/IMG_3956.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1123" height="512" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL41C3AmTJXsFnOjV-KMrgRu0PSuGwam5k5KZwseC6CfduxJuFxDJbaMYjiV44RggQuj4zjlQ4639V3yolEKYK5ajhzFWwJWVygxS2f95NHvGmTdLqJ-YohLphBHqJWEgt3enFy14r7-w/s640/IMG_3956.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful displays present new ideas. Here a glass table is set with glass wear, in a pond with floating gardenias. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5k0YZaVSZ3X5vq5gjj6qwxLf1R7dolyYOTXEb1YEr_3ExzI1qSb7cYcXVG8wmDk80zemeqSjUJiimuFlhvkachbhyXHwtkoRrKgK4LwD2x174bx_qr_fzLH2XoDDx9W7y-PWWiv-BWGc/s1600/IMG_3969.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="959" height="600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5k0YZaVSZ3X5vq5gjj6qwxLf1R7dolyYOTXEb1YEr_3ExzI1qSb7cYcXVG8wmDk80zemeqSjUJiimuFlhvkachbhyXHwtkoRrKgK4LwD2x174bx_qr_fzLH2XoDDx9W7y-PWWiv-BWGc/s640/IMG_3969.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Many arrangements are also presented. I found this one quite unusual.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrg1xCGBehvBAcgDUu0PUn7dGRBTDSP1Rrp-Oh_bBzsEZP2EyP-uql4LJNjBlFkCm8YnVQ6UxMMBwt1IrulganVWxL4tcgDcyR14D9wdUGnz4g7rQ8pBx62Nd15Ov6DoKlKYwVxiqdFVw/s1600/IMG_3974.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrg1xCGBehvBAcgDUu0PUn7dGRBTDSP1Rrp-Oh_bBzsEZP2EyP-uql4LJNjBlFkCm8YnVQ6UxMMBwt1IrulganVWxL4tcgDcyR14D9wdUGnz4g7rQ8pBx62Nd15Ov6DoKlKYwVxiqdFVw/s640/IMG_3974.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Below is the explanation for this huge display.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6q0v-nZHkqIYVjUEMkpT_vryJsZZkaVR7rYhltqsKUsInA9tDWoTT45s1jjAnANvhGoe0LkMFVyWK8dt_XaOasKxDWKB_ZyolhTISnm2k6gS_biAGFOUZuDY_IiEBUcswjH7oEwfZZBw/s1600/IMG_3975.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6q0v-nZHkqIYVjUEMkpT_vryJsZZkaVR7rYhltqsKUsInA9tDWoTT45s1jjAnANvhGoe0LkMFVyWK8dt_XaOasKxDWKB_ZyolhTISnm2k6gS_biAGFOUZuDY_IiEBUcswjH7oEwfZZBw/s640/IMG_3975.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Smaller exhibits were also on display. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqkoL6dkT0tmgMog5Hmx6Wy3OWMOOdC4Tc4ho4gwVm5sSTeMBz3X45HzxK3bHJhTF4NUeyutCQgpAk7BzT4xijc3HTFAZMUrVs3wjHjkjg8Q06kixWOFaO5a8UDZH441MRW2isvsEPXRI/s1600/IMG_3988.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqkoL6dkT0tmgMog5Hmx6Wy3OWMOOdC4Tc4ho4gwVm5sSTeMBz3X45HzxK3bHJhTF4NUeyutCQgpAk7BzT4xijc3HTFAZMUrVs3wjHjkjg8Q06kixWOFaO5a8UDZH441MRW2isvsEPXRI/s640/IMG_3988.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBo8zNHeoEuRj1nvPbxXBLYMHNRZWCpfRUHbkLxdiOiiCyx7wVhzXjX1wyMsM0eDy_h4DRgjnXI968mufQ8V3zaIzBd1K9Rpajtl0DHNBxMzOSXunQ3LE_0OVKwknluqisYE1zsPYwIXg/s1600/IMG_3993.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBo8zNHeoEuRj1nvPbxXBLYMHNRZWCpfRUHbkLxdiOiiCyx7wVhzXjX1wyMsM0eDy_h4DRgjnXI968mufQ8V3zaIzBd1K9Rpajtl0DHNBxMzOSXunQ3LE_0OVKwknluqisYE1zsPYwIXg/s640/IMG_3993.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4BfuKa1mOkIigBL9jmty85lIo2Sm38MVnOGkHw4QsW6YT4ylknjZa7pQmpYXHws0LVl2QEPGwqY09CT1nVvgAPLZ9CUkm8hQpUXLuWJWddCxeBpY3VgrzCXJbOoReKQs8uGQlhJMdvis/s1600/IMG_3996.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4BfuKa1mOkIigBL9jmty85lIo2Sm38MVnOGkHw4QsW6YT4ylknjZa7pQmpYXHws0LVl2QEPGwqY09CT1nVvgAPLZ9CUkm8hQpUXLuWJWddCxeBpY3VgrzCXJbOoReKQs8uGQlhJMdvis/s640/IMG_3996.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here an outdoor garden is presented.</td></tr>
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The shopping is also fabulous. One finds items at the Flower Show that one can find nowhere else. And one meets people, often people with very interesting stories to tell.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFGC-94eNGHY3oYqMv3OfHXsSb6bgUJ0mba2HXm-VxNJxQySa6QWP2qyr9lm3ByTLQPj3h6kAefCy35BxpCRldYI0QD6p3ZkwNZkUdxvwn1aK2Myze-0uKI8-UpL_JYO3E9fdw7kgLh-8/s1600/IMG_4002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFGC-94eNGHY3oYqMv3OfHXsSb6bgUJ0mba2HXm-VxNJxQySa6QWP2qyr9lm3ByTLQPj3h6kAefCy35BxpCRldYI0QD6p3ZkwNZkUdxvwn1aK2Myze-0uKI8-UpL_JYO3E9fdw7kgLh-8/s640/IMG_4002.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is Maryam, who sells beautiful hand-made tapestries, shawls, and bags from India, China, and Morocco. www.uniteinthelight.org - www.kashmirdream.com</td></tr>
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I bought garden door mats from www.gardendoormat.net marveled over the beauty of hand-crafted jewelry made by Colleen Toland - www.colleentoland.com - and her daughter, Lisa Toland -www.lisatoland.com - both of whom are from California. </div>
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I bought a broom that sweeps decks, a hot-pink t-shirt that says <i>We Can Do It! </i>with Rosie the Riveter on the sleeve, and for my daughter, roses from the Krempt Florist. Roses are incredibly inexpensive at the show. Unfortunately I do not have the web addresses for these exhibitors.</div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">If you subscribe to <i><a href="http://www.threadsmagazine.com/" style="color: #888888; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">Threads Magazine,</a> </i>look for my ad in the <i>marketing section </i>of the magazine.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">My new, professional website should go up in a couple of days.</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;"></span><span style="color: #336699;">Twitter: <a href="https://twitter.com/LaurelHoffmann1" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank"><b>https://twitter.com/LaurelHoffmann1</b></a></span></div>
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<a href="mailto:Laurelhoffmann@comcast.net" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">email</a></h4>
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Phone: 215 884 7065</div>
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<span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , serif; font-size: 11pt;">©</span> Laurel Hoffmann, 2018. </div>
<div align="center" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: 20.79px;">
All rights reserved.</div>
<br />Laurel Hoffmannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00238938109416111092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1445659851534540479.post-49826091871889492632018-02-01T07:13:00.000-08:002018-02-01T07:13:21.914-08:0067: Choosing your bra size<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="text-align: start;">The following information should help make determining bra size easier. </span></div>
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<span style="text-align: start;">However, because bust shapes, bust positions on the body, and bra styling vary, the<b> precise bra size cannot be determined without a fitting. </b></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio4cFepZlBoGHIk7D9EYwBiT4GYm2abBh4oEQ9OWNKqEREG7raT5K_9yr3-c7nTMfkOeDzZG6RrdZHqfHCpcrbsjBA84Ly5keLwqiYuGV_G0oOD3AUIBNzBn0AYwsDr_smf2W5OXlCRC4/s1600/figure.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="578" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio4cFepZlBoGHIk7D9EYwBiT4GYm2abBh4oEQ9OWNKqEREG7raT5K_9yr3-c7nTMfkOeDzZG6RrdZHqfHCpcrbsjBA84Ly5keLwqiYuGV_G0oOD3AUIBNzBn0AYwsDr_smf2W5OXlCRC4/s400/figure.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Measure your bust circumference loosely,<br />measure your chest circumference, <b>under the bust, </b>as tight as possible without indenting the skin.</td></tr>
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<b>Measure your bust and your chest circumference</b></h3>
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<b>Take two measurements, </b>the bust circumference and the chest circumference. <b>Wear only a bra. </b>If one wears even a tight knit undergarment it can add an inch to the circumference.</div>
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The <b>bust circumference </b>should be measured loosely, hold the tape measure around the full of the bust as loose as possible, but just tight enough so that the tape does not fall down.</div>
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The<b> chest circumference</b> should be measured as tight as possible without indenting the skin. </div>
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<span style="text-align: start;">Add five inches to give <b>the bra size’s circumference measurement.</b> </span></div>
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<span style="text-align: start;">Bra companies determine a woman’s bra size by first measuring the chest under the bust, </span></div>
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<span style="text-align: start;">then adding five inches to give the bra size’s circumference measurement. </span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0MNQV1UeVbzBjdvE4E_ChD61kISTKuhKbxj8poIeef9ePQLjNB2WMDODGkXh_F7kHu_3eeVyEDocsEbJFqv6IWyDkASWcpxjpgPI6ERZRp27RGM0SSnxVQkOSto1Oj_PYhXP2PuyfrTg/s1600/Chart.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1076" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0MNQV1UeVbzBjdvE4E_ChD61kISTKuhKbxj8poIeef9ePQLjNB2WMDODGkXh_F7kHu_3eeVyEDocsEbJFqv6IWyDkASWcpxjpgPI6ERZRp27RGM0SSnxVQkOSto1Oj_PYhXP2PuyfrTg/s320/Chart.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Cup size nomenclature is related to bust circumference. <br />The same cup size in the next largest bra or pattern size is given the previous letter.<br /> For example: The size C cup in a 34 bra is a size B cup in a 36 bra. <br />The size B cup in a 36 bra is a size A cup in a 38 bra.</td></tr>
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<b>Determine your cup size</b></h3>
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If your bust measures the chest size plus 5 inches, your cup size is a C, the average cup size in each bra size. </div>
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For example: A woman with a 31 inch chest adds 5 inches to determine that she wears a bra with a 36 inch circumference. If her bust measures 36 inches she wears a C cup. If her bust measures one inch less – 35 inches, she wears a B cup; one inch more – 37 inches, a D cup.<br />
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<b>The Relationship Between Home-sewing Pattern's and Bra Sizing</b></h3>
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The <b>commercial pattern companies </b>use the same system, but traditionally <b>draft their patterns with a B cup</b>. Their sizing charts give a bust measurement two inches larger than the chest measurement – an AA cup size, but because the pattern’s bust measurement is four inches more than the chest measurement t<b>he pattern’s true cup size is a B. </b><br />
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<b>This information is from <i>Grading to Fit, </i>a book currently in progress that hopefully will be on the market before the end of the year.</b><br />
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Keep watching, the website at <span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #336699; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;"><a href="http://www.laurelhoffmann.com/" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration-line: none;"><b>www.ContemporaryFashionEducation.com</b></a></span><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;"> is currently being professionally upgraded, the new website should be online in early March, 2018.</span></span><br />
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<b>Bye for now, thanks for reading - <i>Laurel</i></b><br />
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; line-height: 20.79px;">B</span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;">ooks:<b> </b></span><b style="color: #333333; font-size: 14.85px;"><span style="color: #336699; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;"><a href="http://www.laurelhoffmann.com/" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration-line: none;">www.ContemporaryFashionEducation.com</a></span><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;"> </span></b></div>
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<a href="mailto:Laurelhoffmann@comcast.net" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">email</a></h4>
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Phone: 215 884 7065</div>
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<span style="font-family: "bookman old style", serif; font-size: 11pt;">©</span> Laurel Hoffmann, 2018. </div>
<b><br /></b>Laurel Hoffmannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00238938109416111092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1445659851534540479.post-79470943593817686912017-12-25T16:01:00.001-08:002017-12-26T03:50:28.035-08:0066: Belly dancing attire<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiombcTailnDlKv32vH48sRriwleK8k_TlIfzidHO0ikORJNhx9si4k66EJq680LREO9EtaFoubO0fkqpSk2KZFKzJofOtVb4RLgXDpLl20LkQSPEkMtYHnzixIefYwtzf8oXWql1qqMRo/s1600/fr-view_3781.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="540" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiombcTailnDlKv32vH48sRriwleK8k_TlIfzidHO0ikORJNhx9si4k66EJq680LREO9EtaFoubO0fkqpSk2KZFKzJofOtVb4RLgXDpLl20LkQSPEkMtYHnzixIefYwtzf8oXWql1qqMRo/s640/fr-view_3781.gif" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A belly dancer's costume.</td></tr>
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Belly dancer's costumes are very beautiful. Here is a costume worn by a belly dancer in Baltimore, Maryland.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEqHkBmeIgCWF0P55hYxf1Zza8izUpSppVLLxt4cUwQ4XpGtB0wQOYvIrgNL8RBqDnUL-9xpSX3013cmZ604hglB92TPJmp4B615yBIKl5JOe9PjSymPToEay-3AJ4k1xI8VXYbtf3eq8/s1600/earring-380.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="663" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEqHkBmeIgCWF0P55hYxf1Zza8izUpSppVLLxt4cUwQ4XpGtB0wQOYvIrgNL8RBqDnUL-9xpSX3013cmZ604hglB92TPJmp4B615yBIKl5JOe9PjSymPToEay-3AJ4k1xI8VXYbtf3eq8/s320/earring-380.gif" width="292" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Earrings</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtH9tcHILOtX3UVng6btZAHQt4IibqBJTmE_ML0kt3OBd482qeSvSwhzNW9BjHkIEPff1J7bSIhdff_llPTB6Tmhx6vX_SxD0cAv4EqdFK4PBHPOGxxgU8Fw8rIsZI4yNYyqOlD7utzpY/s1600/bracelets_3792.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="691" data-original-width="514" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtH9tcHILOtX3UVng6btZAHQt4IibqBJTmE_ML0kt3OBd482qeSvSwhzNW9BjHkIEPff1J7bSIhdff_llPTB6Tmhx6vX_SxD0cAv4EqdFK4PBHPOGxxgU8Fw8rIsZI4yNYyqOlD7utzpY/s320/bracelets_3792.gif" width="236" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bracelets and bra front</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMCxzwnL3OyxRvrH96AB6rEGi6x5OiP-tQGbPqAUp9MlPM1E4-JSfXUuG5rUaJNAcNFaWxzvVkpGk87Q6xsUPy39b6Vnp7kK4GM6k8UX_1Zc2WZxtO4Aee_EzSXIyrVImwyPumiMGcFA0/s1600/yoke_3784.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="652" data-original-width="486" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMCxzwnL3OyxRvrH96AB6rEGi6x5OiP-tQGbPqAUp9MlPM1E4-JSfXUuG5rUaJNAcNFaWxzvVkpGk87Q6xsUPy39b6Vnp7kK4GM6k8UX_1Zc2WZxtO4Aee_EzSXIyrVImwyPumiMGcFA0/s400/yoke_3784.gif" width="297" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back skirt yoke</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1b5-wah-cduwKaVZHFVKvuf1S-RKRZ7623uIombmvgvaq0fnPkBbKqkM8BZj6Lz7SFH3FkdQzVWXREckxOpjOpm_m_AEVSgDmUef2Ejy28_9AqLQqESwj_ClhzdFiFoREEhkGh3sdadc/s1600/bk-of-dress-3791.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="353" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1b5-wah-cduwKaVZHFVKvuf1S-RKRZ7623uIombmvgvaq0fnPkBbKqkM8BZj6Lz7SFH3FkdQzVWXREckxOpjOpm_m_AEVSgDmUef2Ejy28_9AqLQqESwj_ClhzdFiFoREEhkGh3sdadc/s400/bk-of-dress-3791.gif" width="195" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back view</td></tr>
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<span style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13.2px;">If you subscribe to <i><a href="http://www.threadsmagazine.com/" target="_blank">Threads Magazine,</a> </i>look for my ad in the <i>marketing section </i>of the Feb/Mar issue of the magazine, due on the market this January, 2018.</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; text-align: start;">Bye for now - thanks for reading -</span><i style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; text-align: start;"> Laurel</i><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; text-align: start;" /><br />
<div style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; line-height: 20.79px;">B</span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;">ooks:<b> </b></span><b style="color: #333333; font-size: 14.85px;"><span style="color: #336699; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;"><a href="http://www.laurelhoffmann.com/" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration-line: none;">www.ContemporaryFashionEducation.com</a></span><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;"> </span></b></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: 20.79px;">
Facebook:<b> <a href="http://www.facebook.com/CFashionEdu" style="color: #6699cc; font-family: Arial; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; text-align: start; text-decoration-line: none;">www.facebook.com/CFashionEdu</a></b><span style="color: black; font-family: arial; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;"></span><br /><span style="color: black; font-family: arial; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;"></span><span style="color: #336699;">Twitter: <a href="https://twitter.com/LaurelHoffmann1" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank"><b>https://twitter.com/LaurelHoffmann1</b></a></span></div>
<h4 class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px; margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.5in; position: relative;">
<a href="mailto:Laurelhoffmann@comcast.net" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">email</a></h4>
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Phone: 215 884 7065</div>
<div align="center" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: 20.79px;">
<span style="font-family: "bookman old style", serif; font-size: 11pt;">©</span> Laurel Hoffmann, 2017. </div>
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Laurel Hoffmannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00238938109416111092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1445659851534540479.post-56384610629684098692017-10-04T11:21:00.003-07:002017-10-04T11:43:19.313-07:0065: Scanning for fit<a href="http://www.businessinsider.com/amazon-body-labs-3d-body-scanning-startup-2017-10" target="_blank">It seems that Amazon just bought a startup that makes 3D scans of your body.</a><br />
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I'm not so sure about scanning the body to determine fit. It seems to me that this is a very expensive way to do something when there is a much easier way to determine which manufactured clothing will fit your body.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1sC6MJJPWoMSoxy4gP8oYqagItYH6cym9-5Kioz3EyIFOvnDUC8AzOYKIYiFd4qmNJDBLGn-1nL3CNzkukwW_gqklLa7v32S9NRU7al6G5LGinALA09tpjnmq1v8RgRoAf8TgNz6HJ88/s1600/post-65--tape-measure-2.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="849" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1sC6MJJPWoMSoxy4gP8oYqagItYH6cym9-5Kioz3EyIFOvnDUC8AzOYKIYiFd4qmNJDBLGn-1nL3CNzkukwW_gqklLa7v32S9NRU7al6G5LGinALA09tpjnmq1v8RgRoAf8TgNz6HJ88/s320/post-65--tape-measure-2.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A tape measure is the drafting tool of choice to use when determining if clothing will fit.<br />
Compare your measurements with the measurements given for the sizes that are offered by the manufacturer.<br />
Since manufacturers draft their patterns to grade rules, once you find a manufacturer whose clothing fits you,<br />
buy clothing from that manufacturer in the size that you have found fits. </td></tr>
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There is a very inexpensive drafting tool that really helps with getting the fit right. It's called a tape measure.<br />
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Use that to compare your measurements with the measurements given for the garment(s) you are purchasing and you have a fairly good chance that the garment(s) will fit you.<br />
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Men do this all the time. Go into any men's department in any store and you will find that the men's clothing is labeled with actual measurements, listed in inches!<br />
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But with women's clothing the size on a garment may be a 10, or a 14, etc. so what on earth do those sizes mean? Too many women try on garment after garment, hoping something will fit. What a frustrating waste of time! So now the big solution is scanning one's body. The world's gone crazy!<br />
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Women's sizing, such as 10 or 12, is actually a company's industrial jargon for a complete set of measurements for that size. Check the manufacturing company's sizing chart and you will learn the measurements that are indicated by each size on the clothings' tags.<br />
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For mass-production of clothing to be successful, manufactures must cut a 1000 garments at a time. Using a grade-rule (a measuring system that establishes the measurements for each of the sizes in a style line) based on an averaging of measurements from a selected group of people is the only way mass-production is possible. Years ago there was talk of scanning to produce custom fitted mass-produced clothing. <i>Custom fitted mass-produced clothing </i>is an oxymoron. There is no such thing because it is impossible.<br />
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If your measurements are the same or close to the measurements of one of the sizes in that grade rule, buying clothing from that manufacturer in that size will enable you to enjoy a good, or many even an excellent fit.<br />
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<b>Note: Stay posted. </b>Hoping to have <i>Grading to Fit </i>and its companion book, <i>Grading and Sewing a Blouse </i>on the market by January 1, 2018. Will post when the books are finished. Together they show how to draft slopers (basic patterns - front and back bodice, front and back skirt, sleeve from which pattern styles are drafted) that fit an individual, and then how to use those slopers to determine the grading coordinates needed to grade grade-rule patterns, such as home sewing patterns, to a custom fit.<br />
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I'm working day and night on those two books, the reason I rarely post on my blog.<br />
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Bye for now - thanks for reading -<i> Laurel</i><br />
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; line-height: 20.79px;">B</span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;">ooks:<b> </b></span><b style="color: #333333; font-size: 14.85px;"><span style="color: #336699; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;"><a href="http://www.laurelhoffmann.com/" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration-line: none;">www.ContemporaryFashionEducation.com</a></span><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;"> </span></b></div>
<div style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: 20.79px; text-align: center;">
Facebook:<b> <a href="http://www.facebook.com/CFashionEdu" style="color: #6699cc; font-family: Arial; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; text-align: start; text-decoration-line: none;">www.facebook.com/CFashionEdu</a></b><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;"></span><br />
<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;"></span><span style="color: #336699;">Twitter: <a href="https://twitter.com/LaurelHoffmann1" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank"><b>https://twitter.com/LaurelHoffmann1</b></a></span></div>
<h4 class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px; margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.5in; position: relative; text-align: center;">
<a href="mailto:Laurelhoffmann@comcast.net" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">email</a></h4>
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Phone: 215 884 7065</div>
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<span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , serif; font-size: 11pt;">©</span> Laurel Hoffmann, 2017. </div>
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Laurel Hoffmannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00238938109416111092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1445659851534540479.post-66571148225016133552017-08-23T06:04:00.001-07:002017-08-23T06:04:52.570-07:0064: NYC Fashion Schools<div style="text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">A visit to the </span><span style="font-size: x-large;">Fashion Institute of Technology </span><span style="font-size: x-large;">and to </span><span style="font-size: x-large;">Parsons School of Design</span></h3>
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<a href="http://contemporaryfashioneducation.blogspot.com/search?q=shira" target="_blank">Shira</a>, now 17, is interested in becoming a fashion designer. So off she, her mother, and I went on Saturday, August 12, to NYC to visit <span style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">the </span></span><a href="https://www.suny.edu/campuses/fit/" style="font-family: inherit;" target="_blank">Fashion Institute of Technology</a> (FIT)<span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">and </span><a href="https://www.newschool.edu/parsons/" style="font-family: inherit;" target="_blank">Parsons School of Design</a>.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3P5rVFZLm7jwjxG0T-8G17xHWsKsIYR0gCMzlDvtV7MzbM1p9QmJ8P8tbkn3Rj0hwuOx4ySF59E1nni_s69NmZ8iR3Lf6QuXbfP-7kuYOXphiwsiYeQtR0ySAnjSURViQ1wMYxwDy1JY/s1600/Shira+on+stairs+3625.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="565" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3P5rVFZLm7jwjxG0T-8G17xHWsKsIYR0gCMzlDvtV7MzbM1p9QmJ8P8tbkn3Rj0hwuOx4ySF59E1nni_s69NmZ8iR3Lf6QuXbfP-7kuYOXphiwsiYeQtR0ySAnjSURViQ1wMYxwDy1JY/s400/Shira+on+stairs+3625.jpg" width="140" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shira, now 17, is interested<br />
in becoming a fashion designer.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDkT6iUj0S8ZpcZMYdEAwizOIUAy15_gyfdmdKqbQROEbH3nsl4ZjtkSTGWq9eFvajxnqEdUep_RozS4I3K0nsh7oPpmgfcRA3QGLP8xxOGZvTgXTioSEiXAYs_caVqul4h3uBs9eq9HQ/s1600/S%252BA-about-to-board_3630.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="721" data-original-width="784" height="293" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDkT6iUj0S8ZpcZMYdEAwizOIUAy15_gyfdmdKqbQROEbH3nsl4ZjtkSTGWq9eFvajxnqEdUep_RozS4I3K0nsh7oPpmgfcRA3QGLP8xxOGZvTgXTioSEiXAYs_caVqul4h3uBs9eq9HQ/s320/S%252BA-about-to-board_3630.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">About to board the train for NYC.</td></tr>
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We are up early as the entire day is planned down almost to the minute. The goal is for Shira to evaluate two fashion schools, FIT and Parsons.<br />
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Shira's mother drives us to Princeton where we take the NJ Transit into Penn Station in NYC.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAyerGIrdC2xgcgNQuviAhlxv_VYf-7LN3ef3XPpPioi9pz20mnz4Xi6BTlVkF6AzjCnJOOUEfLHt9GiydtvI6Q_OkUEWiWKPBNys5rkixV0STg-UlCqQrnA_SNWdU5NN4rYiKCnlZEsc/s1600/IMG_3633.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="503" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAyerGIrdC2xgcgNQuviAhlxv_VYf-7LN3ef3XPpPioi9pz20mnz4Xi6BTlVkF6AzjCnJOOUEfLHt9GiydtvI6Q_OkUEWiWKPBNys5rkixV0STg-UlCqQrnA_SNWdU5NN4rYiKCnlZEsc/s320/IMG_3633.gif" width="222" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Designers need to understand how knit<br />
fabrics are made. So while riding on the<br />
train, Shira learns how to knit. To make it<br />
easy, she is using large needles and knitting<br />
with string. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM7Jrl4i4f2uj3pIFlHSs67OBmZXsKloapttkGOXaQNXZ7Yc7St6oKpM8jvbU4dGS_l7kKeWB4fD0p4of3rK0WS5mN3PbnxMUi69G2dNO5_QONlFm0YNlEpwJ8jCV9SvpNBmjwREMb66A/s1600/arrive-NYC_3634.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM7Jrl4i4f2uj3pIFlHSs67OBmZXsKloapttkGOXaQNXZ7Yc7St6oKpM8jvbU4dGS_l7kKeWB4fD0p4of3rK0WS5mN3PbnxMUi69G2dNO5_QONlFm0YNlEpwJ8jCV9SvpNBmjwREMb66A/s320/arrive-NYC_3634.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We've made it to NYC! Now on to FIT.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Now in NYC it's only four blocks south to FIT at 227 West 27th Street.<br />
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Fashion Institute of Technology </h2>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO1-Qp7ozAcuyJSbTXYkibvKTa7_GpyCt6aOL2yuOZy3gmEn8q9a4TnnpoOIeikYtGNiQ2qzMCvOqLQU5DcONYoEWeIkSJSytC65EnFZIHjkDIcdKqdSBIYkH5d8NaF5OpmXgIyscWuqU/s1600/S_A-FIT_3635.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="761" height="302" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO1-Qp7ozAcuyJSbTXYkibvKTa7_GpyCt6aOL2yuOZy3gmEn8q9a4TnnpoOIeikYtGNiQ2qzMCvOqLQU5DcONYoEWeIkSJSytC65EnFZIHjkDIcdKqdSBIYkH5d8NaF5OpmXgIyscWuqU/s320/S_A-FIT_3635.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waiting for the moderator at FIT to begin the presentation.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2j0H0_L-2ZZhXPEkEDGR1o3kj4xKTpwfiNJPmNEXcPdS3lPREtDZFvMAxRp9pS7-9U6PRsNBGyCXar_ShOALaRSQ__gjRP2V9iTgx5qEjmsg7y3AyqVrwiFPQgRtdXcbtWLkcOWLuWiA/s1600/FIT-museum-blue-body-suit_3647.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="151" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2j0H0_L-2ZZhXPEkEDGR1o3kj4xKTpwfiNJPmNEXcPdS3lPREtDZFvMAxRp9pS7-9U6PRsNBGyCXar_ShOALaRSQ__gjRP2V9iTgx5qEjmsg7y3AyqVrwiFPQgRtdXcbtWLkcOWLuWiA/s320/FIT-museum-blue-body-suit_3647.gif" width="65" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; text-align: center;">FIT Museum</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />At FIT we learned from the presenter, who is a FIT guidance councilor that FIT offers 29 majors.<br />
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Students complete an associate degree in their freshman and sophomore years, then go on to complete a bachelor degree in their junior and senior years.<br />
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There are no more than 25 students per class, including in the sewing classes. Fifteen was the limit when I taught the sewing class at Philadelphia University. Fifteen is a full class.<br />
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From day one students are taking classes in their major.<br />
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The faculty must have 7 years experience in their field.<br />
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FIT has a campus in florence, Italy and now also has a campus in Seoul, Korea. Portfolio Days are held at FIT on October 28 and December 3. Faculty will be at the even and can critique the portfolio before it is submitted to FIT.<br />
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We then toured the<a href="http://www.fitnyc.edu/museum/exhibitions/index.php" target="_blank"> FIT Museum's <strong style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #a80202; font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-decoration-line: none; vertical-align: baseline;">Force of Nature</strong></a></div>
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<em style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #3c3c3c; font-family: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-variant: inherit; font-weight: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"> Fashion & Textile History Gallery</em></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="-webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; border: 0px; box-sizing: border-box; color: #3c3c3c; font-family: "archivo narrow", sans-serif; font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"> showing from May 30 – November 18, 2017</span><span style="color: #3c3c3c; font-family: "archivo narrow", sans-serif;"> </span></span> </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5gYrHvWib5d8TVMXxeTRMZPgYKWBgGnyBlKJUe8RU7fIgCWeiEplT-2VCE3oc3eEE-oKhQZGfoUhCvgndKDqhr2LqZQ1cGN18-2hxmN3FLux99NQ6-fdqPf0pMxGY2JQXnQMyFjl_3Kw/s1600/FIT-museum-white-dress_3654.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="339" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5gYrHvWib5d8TVMXxeTRMZPgYKWBgGnyBlKJUe8RU7fIgCWeiEplT-2VCE3oc3eEE-oKhQZGfoUhCvgndKDqhr2LqZQ1cGN18-2hxmN3FLux99NQ6-fdqPf0pMxGY2JQXnQMyFjl_3Kw/s320/FIT-museum-white-dress_3654.gif" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dress at the FIT Museum.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ5LVVp4DF1ikMX0fnuw0h6MfYa1mm1TuSs58go3xRzKJZ1_r-CfZr5YOD63fXGK8hHoJGDm2B7sv3gKYKxUQoWh0NaUeEQulkx80vNQC1a7UpfHaT5Wp0HM7sK7389paQkVx0zFU0J7M/s1600/FIT-museum-shoes_3648.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="745" height="309" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ5LVVp4DF1ikMX0fnuw0h6MfYa1mm1TuSs58go3xRzKJZ1_r-CfZr5YOD63fXGK8hHoJGDm2B7sv3gKYKxUQoWh0NaUeEQulkx80vNQC1a7UpfHaT5Wp0HM7sK7389paQkVx0zFU0J7M/s320/FIT-museum-shoes_3648.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shoes on display at the FIT Museum.</td></tr>
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="text-align: center;">Parsons School of Design </span></h2>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQgkQFWUY18_IPXktY3QEzIIy06pjDPrLFsrI_mT5UD92BlKxd7B4KEKwSvIQg9-ajpUP_o08cmt3W3V3sb7jZM7GFcKLcopggJdSsIo3IMO_Cyb1HJkPIBQ5RQ8sJZiCQKHp_Z_ZwbII/s1600/Shira---New-School_3658.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQgkQFWUY18_IPXktY3QEzIIy06pjDPrLFsrI_mT5UD92BlKxd7B4KEKwSvIQg9-ajpUP_o08cmt3W3V3sb7jZM7GFcKLcopggJdSsIo3IMO_Cyb1HJkPIBQ5RQ8sJZiCQKHp_Z_ZwbII/s320/Shira---New-School_3658.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The New School provides academic classes for the students.</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgisc5gDP1XHF1nEeuceys5zmNgi_uhqXahB2TFZC7qVnZ1SXZgHkRKGyu6boz517m1pCpnKERn6sfRmMrmcMQUv20NpCk1mPPRlM0dzwAbU8fA0QaqCcayHLQELtP61HviUpGdWHlOkyg/s1600/Arriving-at-Parsons_3657.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="524" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgisc5gDP1XHF1nEeuceys5zmNgi_uhqXahB2TFZC7qVnZ1SXZgHkRKGyu6boz517m1pCpnKERn6sfRmMrmcMQUv20NpCk1mPPRlM0dzwAbU8fA0QaqCcayHLQELtP61HviUpGdWHlOkyg/s320/Arriving-at-Parsons_3657.gif" width="232" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arriving at Parsons' University Center<br /> at 63 Fifth Avenue for an afternoon tour.</td></tr>
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We then traveled uptown to Parsons' University Center to an afternoon tour conducted by Babs.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEN8wFMZ7RDWr8uo3WuVYlAXLoYJ4V9QioJOWXWsaGFF7uqKk5J3ExXh26nAdS4cH20Lcwa6SgauWmoXj2o6fjP3qA13KMoAQ5Hvzy8eaivMtMdr7SLX418VX0e9RWzRMj4V-U1tD7hzE/s1600/babs_3663.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEN8wFMZ7RDWr8uo3WuVYlAXLoYJ4V9QioJOWXWsaGFF7uqKk5J3ExXh26nAdS4cH20Lcwa6SgauWmoXj2o6fjP3qA13KMoAQ5Hvzy8eaivMtMdr7SLX418VX0e9RWzRMj4V-U1tD7hzE/s320/babs_3663.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Babs and Shira </td></tr>
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<i>Bab is, a fifth year dual degree student at Eugene Lang College and Parsons School of Design. Originally from Hartford, CT, she has worked for the Welcome Center since July 2015. - </i>Posted in the Welcome Center.<span style="font-size: 12.8px; text-align: center;"> </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn2VZBw98nY3YkJZOmeg_nkr1pLanIIyT-y_iFFWz11yvrpPYpRBy6xKOCoK7gmyhyhaakVG16xZ0aarIdcmsLplQVm3sr6f70I5QPCaVmixsbQus727rzzRrJWEUGZuB-gLKULFFN3Ho/s1600/Parsons-knitting-sampleIMG_3661.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn2VZBw98nY3YkJZOmeg_nkr1pLanIIyT-y_iFFWz11yvrpPYpRBy6xKOCoK7gmyhyhaakVG16xZ0aarIdcmsLplQVm3sr6f70I5QPCaVmixsbQus727rzzRrJWEUGZuB-gLKULFFN3Ho/s320/Parsons-knitting-sampleIMG_3661.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Knitting examples on display at Parsons.</td></tr>
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Babs told us that Parsons is a four-year program. the first year students take foundation courses that consist of basic and medium skills, and that give an overview of various majors. </div>
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She showed us three-D printing used to make shoes' soles, combined with knitting to make the tops of shoes. </div>
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Classes average 15 students to one teacher. Students must speak to an adviser before selecting courses. 85 percent of the students get into their fields. </div>
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://whitney.org/" target="_blank">Whitney Museum</a></h2>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJrN32Xe7k9KGobrLtQcQ3kZkwhFpTsNNwXpw5DRGVdYjVPoxJ2DXN7fwnJSgqfD7p_7d8wuDLeKOjnQYlz6hthXWpXwHz0ksxnFky0cxursTRGQKhCaxdbsmF45Xu6Y5f0FUuZWdaeGM/s1600/Plan_3668.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="540" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJrN32Xe7k9KGobrLtQcQ3kZkwhFpTsNNwXpw5DRGVdYjVPoxJ2DXN7fwnJSgqfD7p_7d8wuDLeKOjnQYlz6hthXWpXwHz0ksxnFky0cxursTRGQKhCaxdbsmF45Xu6Y5f0FUuZWdaeGM/s400/Plan_3668.gif" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Whitney has huge windows, allowing for views<br />that look down on the city. </td></tr>
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We then decided to tour the Whitney Museum which overlooks the Highline.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIHmBhSBwb1xp3oVXvxGOaGV0r8hgVAfbSM9Zd5NjtxyHCbK6PqPSFD9bJtd2HaZIpPd0SBs8pEN0abtJBOIuVmdAULBBarNA4bLG8Zzw3SRbLNILgzjfGCYSpnGMJCchoayL987wkmY4/s1600/Museum-stairwell_3669.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="680" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIHmBhSBwb1xp3oVXvxGOaGV0r8hgVAfbSM9Zd5NjtxyHCbK6PqPSFD9bJtd2HaZIpPd0SBs8pEN0abtJBOIuVmdAULBBarNA4bLG8Zzw3SRbLNILgzjfGCYSpnGMJCchoayL987wkmY4/s320/Museum-stairwell_3669.gif" width="302" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Whitney is filled with modern art. Here in the stairwell<br />we found some interesting cloth sculptures. </td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIHmBhSBwb1xp3oVXvxGOaGV0r8hgVAfbSM9Zd5NjtxyHCbK6PqPSFD9bJtd2HaZIpPd0SBs8pEN0abtJBOIuVmdAULBBarNA4bLG8Zzw3SRbLNILgzjfGCYSpnGMJCchoayL987wkmY4/s1600/Museum-stairwell_3669.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifmOMQYnfAN3jAZTuxL2B95aK1EA8GGdGFvPZPoEQx0cFKTtFx8RZ6OlNHdiu5YwvsrYxXIQ7n_Eib47HcCO9PWf3ZnyyKzCkT8o1Pwl4V9KMGlj2VdnnRtg-GU__qJreDEfph3qRAZyY/s1600/Fabric-store_3673.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="397" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifmOMQYnfAN3jAZTuxL2B95aK1EA8GGdGFvPZPoEQx0cFKTtFx8RZ6OlNHdiu5YwvsrYxXIQ7n_Eib47HcCO9PWf3ZnyyKzCkT8o1Pwl4V9KMGlj2VdnnRtg-GU__qJreDEfph3qRAZyY/s320/Fabric-store_3673.gif" width="176" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Checking out NYC fabrics.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSkxvExwNMYSOIQA3hepDXtrjUxTKHlIezVyb7j-uMvtbcePSBon8WKOARr_4gZyLPcq1bM8kO8BKCSoYm7ktqsi5GQu40k-a6upNrtrET0d5W-2OMoopOeO1jsEW3JNHnnxXqjEA68rI/s1600/knitting-in-Penn-Station_3674.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="423" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSkxvExwNMYSOIQA3hepDXtrjUxTKHlIezVyb7j-uMvtbcePSBon8WKOARr_4gZyLPcq1bM8kO8BKCSoYm7ktqsi5GQu40k-a6upNrtrET0d5W-2OMoopOeO1jsEW3JNHnnxXqjEA68rI/s320/knitting-in-Penn-Station_3674.gif" width="188" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Knitting while waiting for the train<br />that will take us back to Princeton.</td></tr>
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
Going home </h2>
We ate in the fabric district, giving us time to check out a few fabric stores, which, even though it was Saturday, where open.<br />
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After supper we walked down to Penn Station to wait for the NJ Transit to take us back to Princeton. </div>
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This gave Shira time to practice her knitting. During the train ride she completed a perfect swatch of stockinette knitting, proving that she had learned how to knit on the trip, and that she now knew how to both knit and purl. </div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; line-height: 20.79px;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; line-height: 20.79px;">B</span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: arial, tahoma, helvetica, freesans, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;">ooks:<b> </b></span><b style="color: #333333; font-size: 14.85px;"><span style="color: #336699; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;"><a href="http://www.laurelhoffmann.com/" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration-line: none;">www.ContemporaryFashionEducation.com</a></span><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;"> </span></b></div>
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Facebook:<b> <a href="http://www.facebook.com/CFashionEdu" style="color: #6699cc; font-family: Arial; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; text-align: start; text-decoration-line: none;">www.facebook.com/CFashionEdu</a></b><span style="color: black; font-family: arial; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;"></span><br /><span style="color: black; font-family: arial; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;"></span><span style="color: #336699;">Twitter: <a href="https://twitter.com/LaurelHoffmann1" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank"><b>https://twitter.com/LaurelHoffmann1</b></a></span></div>
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<a href="mailto:Laurelhoffmann@comcast.net" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">email</a></h4>
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Phone: 215 884 7065</div>
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<span style="font-family: "bookman old style", serif; font-size: 11pt;">©</span> Laurel Hoffmann, 2017. </div>
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Laurel Hoffmannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00238938109416111092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1445659851534540479.post-65287953674893009682017-05-23T05:50:00.001-07:002017-05-23T05:51:15.481-07:0063: Fashions in the Thirties<h2 style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: Lato, sans-serif; font-size: 34px; line-height: 40px; margin-bottom: 15px; margin-top: 25px;">
<a href="http://www.michenerartmuseum.org/exhibition/charles-sheeler-fashion-photography-and-sculptural-form/" target="_blank">The Charles Sheeler: Fashion, Photography, and Sculptural Form</a></h2>
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Running through July 9, 2017 at the Michener Museum in Doylestown, PA, this show presents photographs and garments from the 1930s. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIWb-0ut6pQ43AemD6TuiFBVlvbFDQ00-EfBe_7u4uD9_P6BZvQc_KLozhhAVYzaYKJgPWVCYVYM4D7O4dXWQj7S3J0UJsTbmSJD9irQN4hAAZEIk3v1tbL7Eeox13ZbugaqNzAb63pqE/s1600/black-gown-004.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIWb-0ut6pQ43AemD6TuiFBVlvbFDQ00-EfBe_7u4uD9_P6BZvQc_KLozhhAVYzaYKJgPWVCYVYM4D7O4dXWQj7S3J0UJsTbmSJD9irQN4hAAZEIk3v1tbL7Eeox13ZbugaqNzAb63pqE/s320/black-gown-004.gif" style="cursor: move;" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This design seems ageless.</td></tr>
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Nowhere have I seen a better example of clothing reflecting the age in which the clothing was worn. Although beautifully cut and sewn, this excellently presented clothing brings to mind the drabness and depression of the era.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAhYQ1xDnYxGNVcVBxtIo44cwMIPWMgCFJ8Qpe-Fyn2cspNnJIgrTy9PDI39EOvoQW9zeLrKOZuDpRLj8DXXsyyTC8N6lZ8jWlPdGa1cWQs5kst6CGGHfMYRYdvoUHTdWft6YvTHKXrhE/s1600/green-dress-005.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAhYQ1xDnYxGNVcVBxtIo44cwMIPWMgCFJ8Qpe-Fyn2cspNnJIgrTy9PDI39EOvoQW9zeLrKOZuDpRLj8DXXsyyTC8N6lZ8jWlPdGa1cWQs5kst6CGGHfMYRYdvoUHTdWft6YvTHKXrhE/s320/green-dress-005.gif" width="165" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oh my! Something needs to go.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2r4cZqWGomzFx8mtfz3m3vTQxWJKBar6Qx4RKUATkizF4rK5osRI7eCATlePjVWwzJ8wVVxmkLvpb74uchuPFPm3xrUEzp99GH3Ul0i9UxhDXKSOxfCzpEIqYLOtcDT5_D363TxTwHnU/s1600/navy-dress-008.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2r4cZqWGomzFx8mtfz3m3vTQxWJKBar6Qx4RKUATkizF4rK5osRI7eCATlePjVWwzJ8wVVxmkLvpb74uchuPFPm3xrUEzp99GH3Ul0i9UxhDXKSOxfCzpEIqYLOtcDT5_D363TxTwHnU/s320/navy-dress-008.gif" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is a black dress, lightened in PhotoShop<br />
to show the detailed sewing.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMtwrrglRbbdRmBqTWnTC0ipyUAju8NZFFiBZEsmaU8dIniupyQW4t0uX_qfn5psGzaG7mTmWwZolqxbHboQh31QjAh9HpVhm3K6JOoVZTJaXT_ZW9aaT8yew-rcrgq-S_bBXSBYLZ40k/s1600/yellow-sequens-007.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMtwrrglRbbdRmBqTWnTC0ipyUAju8NZFFiBZEsmaU8dIniupyQW4t0uX_qfn5psGzaG7mTmWwZolqxbHboQh31QjAh9HpVhm3K6JOoVZTJaXT_ZW9aaT8yew-rcrgq-S_bBXSBYLZ40k/s320/yellow-sequens-007.gif" width="213" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNOEaGsaMosBh6jnooHlNdMkhSRLEpF-Abj_MA2JaswvBnv-UNiKBYzJADsm95fF7Ky0d5XHUOqvZ6c7WNDZacfGrEdNYu9cEg2uSsMp9oFmMB7zC9jRwnd96lxiwuu7QOorZMPO2Wubg/s1600/orange-flapper-006.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNOEaGsaMosBh6jnooHlNdMkhSRLEpF-Abj_MA2JaswvBnv-UNiKBYzJADsm95fF7Ky0d5XHUOqvZ6c7WNDZacfGrEdNYu9cEg2uSsMp9oFmMB7zC9jRwnd96lxiwuu7QOorZMPO2Wubg/s320/orange-flapper-006.gif" width="177" /></a><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHBfEt_fd87d4omPpAJePMUrwOZFGcZmDKVe3DQ8W46Hdg3HXE0RXhLXkAqSv0IwvZ9zvswSsWIK5Lx7g3Ce04FFSvGkcTDKm1xpkW9DTrui1AE-9eBgskI6ZQdcMDQqSHNcZ6MfkBDYs/s1600/red-dress-010.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHBfEt_fd87d4omPpAJePMUrwOZFGcZmDKVe3DQ8W46Hdg3HXE0RXhLXkAqSv0IwvZ9zvswSsWIK5Lx7g3Ce04FFSvGkcTDKm1xpkW9DTrui1AE-9eBgskI6ZQdcMDQqSHNcZ6MfkBDYs/s320/red-dress-010.gif" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">High style in the 30s!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Phone: 215 884 7065</div>
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Laurel Hoffmannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00238938109416111092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1445659851534540479.post-53638094871178873132017-05-12T11:42:00.000-07:002017-07-23T15:43:19.903-07:0062: Pricing<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<b>How much should one charge?</b> What is one's time worth?<br />
<b>How does one make sure one's business will make a profit? </b><br />
<br />
<b>Here in this post is pricing information</b> from <span style="color: red;"><i><a href="http://contemporaryfashioneducation.com/products/sewing-techniques-from-the-fashion-industry" target="_blank"><b><span style="color: red;">Sewing Techniques from the Fashion Industry</span></b></a></i></span><b style="color: red;">.</b><span style="color: red;"> </span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><br /></span>
<i><b><a href="http://contemporaryfashioneducation.com/products/sewing-techniques-from-the-fashion-industry" target="_blank">Sewing Techniques from the Fashion Industry</a></b></i> is an upgrade of <i>Design Room Techniques, </i>the introductory sewing book for the Continuing Professional Education program offered previously at the two universities in Philadelphia that have fashion programs<i>. </i><br />
<br />
<b>Before determining the wholesale price</b> one should charge for one's sewn product one should determine how much one needs to make an hour. Use this chart to do that.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEKVG99CNyG1o1txgva0LknHNqVHIZitz3FYTbMK__4DoNgOYoJHDx8yi87iuSh_J6szBsYrn_03wKXYPB5_XrX_xvl0z-w8ygfP195BbWNxT-L319sIN89LSmLor-4BgqReLpX_KjxGg/s1600/Hourly-wage.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEKVG99CNyG1o1txgva0LknHNqVHIZitz3FYTbMK__4DoNgOYoJHDx8yi87iuSh_J6szBsYrn_03wKXYPB5_XrX_xvl0z-w8ygfP195BbWNxT-L319sIN89LSmLor-4BgqReLpX_KjxGg/s640/Hourly-wage.gif" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Complete this chart to determine how much you need to make an hour.<br />
If you are manufacturing, this is the amount you must add to the expenses<br />
of running your operation in order to meet your personal expenses.<br />
<br />
<br />
It is very important to remember to pay yourself. It has been estimated that one needs<br />
at least $90,000 to start a clothing manufacturing business. Knowing just how much one<br />
needs out of that money to meet personal expenses, then subtracting that amount from the <br />
start-up funds may be one of the smartest things an entrepreneur can do when <br />
thinking about starting a business.<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Below are two charts that show how to determine both the cost of producing a garment, and a third chart that show how to determining the wholesale price of the garment.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyyvjQejuO6EQlT7V9V8dp_p5_86FQOncF6Uiot2uIAy_Ld6arfdPYzWSldOcUsK_O-m8n4LOPj9BgAfOJWaQLbwV0huu1ACwhWvmsJ0tKE08izb-DlZFJkbCPuO2GnMw0O1hinC3_qbo/s1600/Sewing-costing-sheet.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyyvjQejuO6EQlT7V9V8dp_p5_86FQOncF6Uiot2uIAy_Ld6arfdPYzWSldOcUsK_O-m8n4LOPj9BgAfOJWaQLbwV0huu1ACwhWvmsJ0tKE08izb-DlZFJkbCPuO2GnMw0O1hinC3_qbo/s640/Sewing-costing-sheet.gif" width="568" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sewing procedures involved in making the garment need to be timed. This chart shows<br />
how to determine the time needed to make a blouse.<br />
<br />
(Chart 3-9, page 34, <i style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;"><b><a href="http://contemporaryfashioneducation.com/products/sewing-techniques-from-the-fashion-industry" target="_blank">Sewing Techniques from the Fashion Industry</a>)</b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLf2lpNPQOfJg5hMnoX0itka9jOm83S_dJa_FA0zWE1dVqAfVYfz8btU7f3MTWBJAAwGwUxeJMWBczmOuqfhbr2Fq_vrMIs_U8YrxadQ7a3maBz40ODBQoT1doFWMnvpCr7Q-MiKdhyphenhyphenkM/s1600/Fabrics_notions_cost.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="530" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLf2lpNPQOfJg5hMnoX0itka9jOm83S_dJa_FA0zWE1dVqAfVYfz8btU7f3MTWBJAAwGwUxeJMWBczmOuqfhbr2Fq_vrMIs_U8YrxadQ7a3maBz40ODBQoT1doFWMnvpCr7Q-MiKdhyphenhyphenkM/s640/Fabrics_notions_cost.gif" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The fabric and notions' cost needs to be determined. Years ago some companies tripled <br />
the total cost of materials used in the making of a garment to give the wholesale price. <br />
Now the price is often whatever the market will bear.<br />
<br />
(Chart 3-10, page 35, <i style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;"><b><a href="http://contemporaryfashioneducation.com/products/sewing-techniques-from-the-fashion-industry" target="_blank">Sewing Techniques from the Fashion Industry</a>)</b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheqResR-ASvoY-12Nc1DyscwjIPWymwrEz91YuPxOSSb2wDpj_zlhZGCtE-J4KudU4a5yYPKM_yru86cU6iVtzJNoECWQeISXjYSbngdTjbW6vT85Pjtm1v7ayz0NI0EhJpO3oMuew9Jo/s1600/wholesale-pricing.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheqResR-ASvoY-12Nc1DyscwjIPWymwrEz91YuPxOSSb2wDpj_zlhZGCtE-J4KudU4a5yYPKM_yru86cU6iVtzJNoECWQeISXjYSbngdTjbW6vT85Pjtm1v7ayz0NI0EhJpO3oMuew9Jo/s640/wholesale-pricing.gif" width="506" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Use this chart to determine the wholesale price for the sewn product.<br />
<br />
(Chart 3-12, page 37, <i style="font-size: medium; text-align: start;"><b><a href="http://contemporaryfashioneducation.com/products/sewing-techniques-from-the-fashion-industry" target="_blank">Sewing Techniques from the Fashion Industry</a>)</b></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
.40x = 28.50</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
x = 28.5/.4 = $71.20</div>
<br />
In the chart above is an example of how to use a company’s percentage markup to determine a garment’s wholesale price. This company’s cost of materials is 40% of the wholesale price.<br />
<br />
<b>Determining wholesale prices:</b><br />
If the company’s mark up (the reciprocal cost) is 60% of the wholesale price, then the cost of materials is 40% of the wholesale price.<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>For example:</b> let’s say the cost of the materials needed to make a blouse is $28.50, 40 percent of the total wholesale cost. Divide $28.50 by .4 to give the wholesale price of the blouse, $71.20, <br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>To determine the reciprocal price</b> subtract $28.50 from $71.20 to give $42.70, the additional costs involved with manufacturing the blouse and running the business<br />
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<div style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14.85px; line-height: 20.79px; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: 14.85px; line-height: 20.79px;"> B</span><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;">ooks:<b> </b></span><b><span style="color: #336699; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;"><a href="http://www.laurelhoffmann.com/" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration-line: none;">www.ContemporaryFashionEducation.com</a></span><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;"> </span></b></div>
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Phone: 215 884 7065</div>
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<span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , serif; font-size: 11pt;">©</span> Laurel Hoffmann, 2017. All rights reserved.</div>
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Laurel Hoffmann.</div>
Laurel Hoffmannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00238938109416111092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1445659851534540479.post-62116703609526435432017-02-20T10:44:00.000-08:002017-02-20T10:51:53.141-08:0061: Mummers' Costumes<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-7SSHT5lz8pLhQukD6ckz3Ov8JcYMeP9hh6NbrDe6vurkzopR2V3ZBTzrLavQNQBDpaZwF43J6HLnXJRazYUGZDDwG4mzvzHTb5q9f-ecjVZUiT_taCm0ogs6WumonY8jTA7hJz2FhVA/s1600/03-boys-in-stroller-423.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-7SSHT5lz8pLhQukD6ckz3Ov8JcYMeP9hh6NbrDe6vurkzopR2V3ZBTzrLavQNQBDpaZwF43J6HLnXJRazYUGZDDwG4mzvzHTb5q9f-ecjVZUiT_taCm0ogs6WumonY8jTA7hJz2FhVA/s320/03-boys-in-stroller-423.gif" width="255" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some had it especially good!</td></tr>
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The Mummers’ Parade on New Year’s Day here in Philadelphia is a tradition. Much loved are the string bands who now parade in Manayunk a month or so later, to the great joy of Philadelphians. The Manayunk, located on the banks of the Schuylkill River, is a neighborhood in the northwestern section of the city of Philadelphia.<br />
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The weather was unseasonably warm, Saturday, February 20, 2017, and it was the beginning of Presidents’ Weekend, so everyone came out in a festive, holiday mood, many dressed for the occasion. Granted it was a bit early to celebrate madri gras, but nobody cared.<br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">Sixteen string bands participated in the parade.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqY5Cq5MhaQVt2VNNV4P96E93dI3DxK5Ygfw_AVJ8a9p5bl5hmmIPiaXs-fn_b_MPg3S_Vdj9UUR4N-3ldM7UpFR-pemuwMrHmf_5H4wuEcAX12ibCr1H3W-Zg1ZQWiGM28RERVuHffMQ/s1600/pretzel-seller-416.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqY5Cq5MhaQVt2VNNV4P96E93dI3DxK5Ygfw_AVJ8a9p5bl5hmmIPiaXs-fn_b_MPg3S_Vdj9UUR4N-3ldM7UpFR-pemuwMrHmf_5H4wuEcAX12ibCr1H3W-Zg1ZQWiGM28RERVuHffMQ/s320/pretzel-seller-416.gif" width="236" /></a><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; text-align: center;">Pretzels, a Philadelphia tradition, are sold<br />
as we wait for the parade to begin.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSBMjnDJGF9Pbv5am8rDkJ273j0bEXEnTJr7QU46zfNVPFxZY48kr6eDB9bw2KCzHr4IyZBsZxLDAfWVPsfZfk-HGh-U3wfW4BYbQ_VoFKzdhzxlLvLmVPexhQGo-wnUJazvh7nIE9nTk/s1600/01-man-waiting-415.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSBMjnDJGF9Pbv5am8rDkJ273j0bEXEnTJr7QU46zfNVPFxZY48kr6eDB9bw2KCzHr4IyZBsZxLDAfWVPsfZfk-HGh-U3wfW4BYbQ_VoFKzdhzxlLvLmVPexhQGo-wnUJazvh7nIE9nTk/s320/01-man-waiting-415.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; text-align: center;">Dressed and waiting for the parade to begin.<br />
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Here they come!</div>
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<span style="text-align: start;">The bands played old traditions: <br /><i>Oh Them Golden Slippers, She'll be Coming Around the Mountain,<br />etc., </i>all to a four-beat march. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi7GiwR_hIyM1-tBV4nvEuDa_NDC1nDkVF8ErKdTqo0Poe502agfrBjLfnqGSmSGM4zvmsm_eYiNvq2kZg5X3fb2BPvzsH0B2iROcdBLr2WRLPTlxD8PLL_itTjck48bID3_UMZHhV1l8/s1600/children-with-beads-466.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="263" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi7GiwR_hIyM1-tBV4nvEuDa_NDC1nDkVF8ErKdTqo0Poe502agfrBjLfnqGSmSGM4zvmsm_eYiNvq2kZg5X3fb2BPvzsH0B2iROcdBLr2WRLPTlxD8PLL_itTjck48bID3_UMZHhV1l8/s320/children-with-beads-466.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The bands sold beads which help to defray the costs involved with the costumes.<br />
The children loved the beads and all the fun.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTeBIDTkm4eFPwwzef5a3y6B6Zd_uezajhwl5G_mliuXXDDbtl17-855KOFCzAToa3EVWWQnrPmMiEtI42MzpkS2voOQYESu_VWq92R37rZ7SNOhhzg1IDZyz19oN_sQXEoBSiyZrOgxM/s1600/02-child-418.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTeBIDTkm4eFPwwzef5a3y6B6Zd_uezajhwl5G_mliuXXDDbtl17-855KOFCzAToa3EVWWQnrPmMiEtI42MzpkS2voOQYESu_VWq92R37rZ7SNOhhzg1IDZyz19oN_sQXEoBSiyZrOgxM/s320/02-child-418.gif" width="145" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dress and ready!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy_dqOblf1_PxJhT5s_7hPH_8zvxzjRukikCPtxWrlrzgeEQuyexR5l2JZ-hxjgTFVn5AJUWRMXMFuR1befaYJPtT3r78_K2yiudGWCvN6AU3vZs72v3xWPJgoh8iAJd_ll2e_0AJ1tzI/s1600/full-front-band-463.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy_dqOblf1_PxJhT5s_7hPH_8zvxzjRukikCPtxWrlrzgeEQuyexR5l2JZ-hxjgTFVn5AJUWRMXMFuR1befaYJPtT3r78_K2yiudGWCvN6AU3vZs72v3xWPJgoh8iAJd_ll2e_0AJ1tzI/s640/full-front-band-463.gif" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;"> One of the banner holders told me that most bands have one person who makes all the band members' costumes. It takes her a full year to do this. </span>Looks to me as though sewing all these costumes would take a year at the very least.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3KfrrYN6hSr0onYAUTWckh9SLHrWSfNGB-TC_X9gyLYU9gTRgAO-DbyfRgEbmO1hF8MIaVdS7MC4QNsq0nMP5kzcg0tSCfAnv_B0s81rr1zp348lowSDv_d6M_nj0j3gCMsToMPiX0Tw/s1600/naked-native-430.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3KfrrYN6hSr0onYAUTWckh9SLHrWSfNGB-TC_X9gyLYU9gTRgAO-DbyfRgEbmO1hF8MIaVdS7MC4QNsq0nMP5kzcg0tSCfAnv_B0s81rr1zp348lowSDv_d6M_nj0j3gCMsToMPiX0Tw/s400/naked-native-430.gif" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I found this theme unusual. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8m-din-7d6DL8k7I6-M9GY3nBfN9VAtboX1tr4g13UhD7CGWJipqQL3CMZ7wqW3ayGEkG-Ty1DNTGYoR7sAnSrmumWx3Yzy4ERkdV1y71VNdYP0UbonCBzRJoppUD2aa_kaSyERnIveE/s1600/naked-native--bk-430.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; font-size: 12.8px; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8m-din-7d6DL8k7I6-M9GY3nBfN9VAtboX1tr4g13UhD7CGWJipqQL3CMZ7wqW3ayGEkG-Ty1DNTGYoR7sAnSrmumWx3Yzy4ERkdV1y71VNdYP0UbonCBzRJoppUD2aa_kaSyERnIveE/s320/naked-native--bk-430.gif" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was a very warm day. But New Years was chiller.<br />
What looks like flesh is actually fabric.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmVI4QuEV3IZ7atOZ08ksgRWGUBSkjVNMRG7B_VS69z_3fSct_NCy0YSb9pmV6jIcjds5w6TsSWuj6WUJxOTdyvq7EYUfXoMx5s78ErpJTxP83Xc133V2Rjd0Xa_jdEJ2fVnLVG5KhcEk/s1600/front-of-band-454.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmVI4QuEV3IZ7atOZ08ksgRWGUBSkjVNMRG7B_VS69z_3fSct_NCy0YSb9pmV6jIcjds5w6TsSWuj6WUJxOTdyvq7EYUfXoMx5s78ErpJTxP83Xc133V2Rjd0Xa_jdEJ2fVnLVG5KhcEk/s640/front-of-band-454.gif" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The themes are quite versified.</td></tr>
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Many families involve younger members of their families,</div>
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passing down their participation in the string band of their choice.</div>
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Onlookers joined in, often dancing with the leaders of the bands.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpw1tmAJPqh3g098SMHNyM7-hLu_Rv1VaA1XcJs3gx38WngmfFAlKqknpHaFMC3CfpA1XAlHItyWYQVPk5LmLY1uxEKuD3kcb1KWA3kdVFj9xqnSP7WW77TSr0xNxayC5r_p6AzBe9phQ/s1600/woman-with-sign-470.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpw1tmAJPqh3g098SMHNyM7-hLu_Rv1VaA1XcJs3gx38WngmfFAlKqknpHaFMC3CfpA1XAlHItyWYQVPk5LmLY1uxEKuD3kcb1KWA3kdVFj9xqnSP7WW77TSr0xNxayC5r_p6AzBe9phQ/s320/woman-with-sign-470.gif" width="165" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio_dOAbVSlVMufTRm4vAZZ7-aw-49OGY8_rxjOGVGmrv5Rqk9PWsPUMgxwumprFERrQB3szBb6XNsPFhU2LRkhF6nctkSZaZZfkhxc_blzGvHZb2ejce1HS1lgjFJde3leoaMGpDzXCLU/s1600/woman-with-sax-581.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio_dOAbVSlVMufTRm4vAZZ7-aw-49OGY8_rxjOGVGmrv5Rqk9PWsPUMgxwumprFERrQB3szBb6XNsPFhU2LRkhF6nctkSZaZZfkhxc_blzGvHZb2ejce1HS1lgjFJde3leoaMGpDzXCLU/s320/woman-with-sax-581.gif" width="205" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBECgPHrbONO3gq5psTj8-koA7WB2DTEQPFCNwm4yXNfXVCtDKLLctJWWMzszCtzTG2a3N8Y1xPJqVHjThosxWVWrsYIRYyeFnomKHhh8sNCVv8shA56W67B9mPeKriSwXfoDgCWJKqV0/s1600/woman-with-sax519.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBECgPHrbONO3gq5psTj8-koA7WB2DTEQPFCNwm4yXNfXVCtDKLLctJWWMzszCtzTG2a3N8Y1xPJqVHjThosxWVWrsYIRYyeFnomKHhh8sNCVv8shA56W67B9mPeKriSwXfoDgCWJKqV0/s200/woman-with-sax519.gif" width="184" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Women were well represented<br />
in the bands. Years ago no women<br />
were allowed in the Mummers' parades.<br />
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This band has a Chinese dragon theme, </div>
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probably a tribute to <span style="text-align: center;">Philadelphia's Chinatown.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghjy2dy8cIt7u_HSnRa_LWMeBcGc7vLkRwcuql-OWoSW3VwMPkCeC3ZGSCR9spyfrKutUG54cfVYeLRTZcWQIeqYFIG2DLNtLoVrVNhSdYo0SzkgJ5hAeGqogRnQJPOOze1EIN4AhOE-0/s1600/colonial-front-of-band-565.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghjy2dy8cIt7u_HSnRa_LWMeBcGc7vLkRwcuql-OWoSW3VwMPkCeC3ZGSCR9spyfrKutUG54cfVYeLRTZcWQIeqYFIG2DLNtLoVrVNhSdYo0SzkgJ5hAeGqogRnQJPOOze1EIN4AhOE-0/s640/colonial-front-of-band-565.gif" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I thought the band with the best costumes is this one that had a colonial theme, well suited for Philadelphia. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtaWW0RxFYo49iC-ux_qKGY393ewu-dBI9hYCCjXL6DjxuYFQ5pMLuXxDrQ26G34WD7JVSrQR6n2Wu3FWsOsZ_iZ3sZLswM-Cgojpay9PWTRl9uQkOkJa9anwq2Kva5Oq8wq1N-yr33qQ/s1600/colonial-costumes+bk--583.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtaWW0RxFYo49iC-ux_qKGY393ewu-dBI9hYCCjXL6DjxuYFQ5pMLuXxDrQ26G34WD7JVSrQR6n2Wu3FWsOsZ_iZ3sZLswM-Cgojpay9PWTRl9uQkOkJa9anwq2Kva5Oq8wq1N-yr33qQ/s400/colonial-costumes+bk--583.gif" width="308" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rear view of the costumes.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb6g3uyjej5-c8B1JCWhmHbHeN-2aC9e2gcb5hFlgmp-zywQK3CgVJcI67Z_HEPzMJIOBGBWwM5eljX1if5MbRkxVflQR0SsbPzSMzGvrXqo-7qk4pNPA5nOk5nnkdGVE-lM8i9zxwr0k/s1600/colonial-costumes-570.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="340" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb6g3uyjej5-c8B1JCWhmHbHeN-2aC9e2gcb5hFlgmp-zywQK3CgVJcI67Z_HEPzMJIOBGBWwM5eljX1if5MbRkxVflQR0SsbPzSMzGvrXqo-7qk4pNPA5nOk5nnkdGVE-lM8i9zxwr0k/s400/colonial-costumes-570.gif" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5CjwCnM8IcKRLATteLtQ7vY4OG2SgSyA8cMenBrLW3ZkWoY2sOL3PDeEln2SV5kmDUI3-Qqf-_cOpf-e7XSax1VGFqvhJAO9l_f9LMNwSWQl7ESIKRd3PmLUvj_-RHKwzBijAQnfNjoo/s1600/colonial-costumes-fr-583.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5CjwCnM8IcKRLATteLtQ7vY4OG2SgSyA8cMenBrLW3ZkWoY2sOL3PDeEln2SV5kmDUI3-Qqf-_cOpf-e7XSax1VGFqvhJAO9l_f9LMNwSWQl7ESIKRd3PmLUvj_-RHKwzBijAQnfNjoo/s400/colonial-costumes-fr-583.gif" width="287" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After marching these two members of the<br />
band posed for me. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAm7KJT4HsTWHrCE6rwtYKvMrkOsvJurZxHjq8gs_u9lIHQgatHZaS1bPP_0g9m1zdVbtXc0PQ2u6NA4FliITFvQOJy4YrogUcILeLwMYS4SC-TmBpn83BljNXDSrk_zxibBDQ6VMLeTs/s1600/colonial-costumes-truck-572.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAm7KJT4HsTWHrCE6rwtYKvMrkOsvJurZxHjq8gs_u9lIHQgatHZaS1bPP_0g9m1zdVbtXc0PQ2u6NA4FliITFvQOJy4YrogUcILeLwMYS4SC-TmBpn83BljNXDSrk_zxibBDQ6VMLeTs/s640/colonial-costumes-truck-572.gif" width="594" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">That's the end, folks!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxohvgckVD8gUIVdoo64to8rLRCuOiDmd1DnND2ahaLRTDA6RK3XhbJHOag1bIu10xD1h4hMQffskm6oaKVv3qjqzCD3SiQ3Qap9Y6JW0m95x3YN6W13bcyD7PM0LGI00fDGyDGj3wX0Y/s1600/Lrl-with-accordian-player-461.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="277" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxohvgckVD8gUIVdoo64to8rLRCuOiDmd1DnND2ahaLRTDA6RK3XhbJHOag1bIu10xD1h4hMQffskm6oaKVv3qjqzCD3SiQ3Qap9Y6JW0m95x3YN6W13bcyD7PM0LGI00fDGyDGj3wX0Y/s320/Lrl-with-accordian-player-461.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hope you enjoyed this parade as much as I did. </td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri";"><span style="font-size: large;">Bye for now,</span></span></div>
<div style="background-color: white; clear: both; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; text-align: center;">
<em style="color: #333333; font-family: calibri;"><span style="font-size: large;">Laurel</span></em></div>
<div style="background-color: white; clear: both; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #333333; font-family: "calibri";">published books</span><br />
<div style="color: #333333; font-size: 14.85px; line-height: 20.79px;">
<span style="color: #336699; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;"><a href="http://www.laurelhoffmann.com/" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration: none;">www.ContemporaryFashionEducation.com</a></span><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;"> </span></div>
<div style="color: #333333; font-size: 15px; font-stretch: normal; line-height: 20.79px;">
Facebook: <a href="http://www.facebook.com/CFashionEdu" style="color: #6699cc; font-family: Arial; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; text-align: start; text-decoration: none;">www.facebook.com/CFashionEdu</a><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;"></span><br />
<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;"></span><span style="color: #336699;">Twitter: <a href="https://twitter.com/LaurelHoffmann1" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">https://twitter.com/LaurelHoffmann1</a></span></div>
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<a href="mailto:Laurelhoffmann@comcast.net" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">e-mail</a></h4>
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Phone: 215 884 7065</div>
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<span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , serif; font-size: 11pt;">©</span> Laurel Hoffmann, 2016. All rights reserved.</div>
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All material on this blog is copyrighted by and is the exclusive right of Laurel Hoffmann.</div>
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Laurel Hoffmannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00238938109416111092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1445659851534540479.post-8804986238906795332016-12-31T10:14:00.005-08:002017-03-07T07:25:33.886-08:0060: Winding Bobbins While Sewing<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Many sewing machines can wind bobbins as the machine sews. This is done all the time in industry as it saves considerable time. The bobbin usually winds faster than expected.<br />
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Here is how it is done.<br />
The spools are placed on the machine as shown in the first picture below. The black thread will be used to sew. The brown thread will be wound on the bobbin.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLL8Sb1xX3yxy6XK2eHA_YUTWM5BUrZpQeh2M6unSdCHYigvtD9uXSkt-xxKtqflMRDpWvj-fO-s3-fyOIE5xXDfVbC-sp6qM-nR6IgedB5WaoRSdRInYGFbr3lck_97MsPSxCiHjXR00/s1600/Threaded-machine-33.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="293" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLL8Sb1xX3yxy6XK2eHA_YUTWM5BUrZpQeh2M6unSdCHYigvtD9uXSkt-xxKtqflMRDpWvj-fO-s3-fyOIE5xXDfVbC-sp6qM-nR6IgedB5WaoRSdRInYGFbr3lck_97MsPSxCiHjXR00/s400/Threaded-machine-33.gif" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /><span style="font-size: small;">The machine is threaded with the black thread on the spool on the left.</span></span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: small;">The bobbin will be wound with the brown thread on the right.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwd_wCNPI05j-m-lVfNM_uQctEtgniqHv2JKwyZtcnuWrIOCZ5kCYc7ryuRElN6R2vUpiFMgw3l3TGl5SA3fHbSVIbBF9ZKG-boFDycN_ARgmXJabblvauYzJ63oc0YdC6qOrp9yYJRLQ/s1600/spools-on-machine-32.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="311" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwd_wCNPI05j-m-lVfNM_uQctEtgniqHv2JKwyZtcnuWrIOCZ5kCYc7ryuRElN6R2vUpiFMgw3l3TGl5SA3fHbSVIbBF9ZKG-boFDycN_ARgmXJabblvauYzJ63oc0YdC6qOrp9yYJRLQ/s400/spools-on-machine-32.gif" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: small;">The machine, threaded for sewing and for winding the bobbin.</span></td></tr>
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The picture on the left shows the top of the machine. The thread that will be wound on the bobbin is placed as instruction in the sewing machine's manual, exactly as it would be if the machine were only to wind the bobbin.</div>
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The bobbin winding can be ignored as the machine sews because</div>
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the machine will stop winding the bobbin when the bobbin is fully wound.</div>
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<div style="background-color: white; clear: both; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; text-align: center;">
<em style="color: #333333; font-family: calibri;"><span style="font-size: large;">Laurel</span></em></div>
<div style="background-color: white; clear: both; color: #222222; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #333333;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Published books:</span></span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "calibri";"> </span><span style="color: #336699; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;"><a href="http://www.laurelhoffmann.com/" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration: none;">www.ContemporaryFashionEducation.com</a></span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;"> </span><br />
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Facebook:<span style="font-size: 15px;"> <a href="http://www.facebook.com/CFashionEdu" style="color: #6699cc; font-family: Arial; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; text-align: start; text-decoration: none;">www.facebook.com/CFashionEdu</a><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;"></span><br /><span style="color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal;"></span><span style="color: #336699;">Twitter: <a href="https://twitter.com/LaurelHoffmann1" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">https://twitter.com/LaurelHoffmann1</a></span></span></div>
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<a href="mailto:Laurelhoffmann@comcast.net" style="color: #6699cc; font-size: 15px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">email</a></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.85px;">Phone: 215 884 7065</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , serif;">©</span> Laurel Hoffmann, 2016.</span> <span style="font-size: x-small;">All rights reserved.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">All material on this blog is copyrighted by and is the exclusive right of Laurel Hoffmann.</span></div>
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Laurel Hoffmannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00238938109416111092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1445659851534540479.post-55482574986147259882016-12-18T07:30:00.001-08:002016-12-19T04:48:02.163-08:0059: Shira Cuts<b>Shira is back!</b> <a href="http://contemporaryfashioneducation.blogspot.com/search?q=Shira" target="_blank">Remember Shira? The little doll who designed her Bat Mitzvah dress?</a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglEr9L60eedWiZwxT5mdtepW8fwvbUoSQfpBrHt_JzRQh4qs1IxL5gkUPg-U5QnHX0w3INz6-byw_RA8usBekwldjSSRYpCr1Fa64GGbKk90-dJSN9H183BZ7l8AhFkrUTLHHirkslwKM/s1600/2-Shira-starts-to-cut_3316-net.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglEr9L60eedWiZwxT5mdtepW8fwvbUoSQfpBrHt_JzRQh4qs1IxL5gkUPg-U5QnHX0w3INz6-byw_RA8usBekwldjSSRYpCr1Fa64GGbKk90-dJSN9H183BZ7l8AhFkrUTLHHirkslwKM/s400/2-Shira-starts-to-cut_3316-net.gif" width="386" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shira starts to cut her full-length, lined skirt<a href="https://www.facebook.com/CFashionEdu/videos/1543152485714107/?hc_ref=NEWSFEED" target="_blank">. See Shira cut her skirt live.</a></td></tr>
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She’s at it again! This time she has designed and is making a full-length lined skirt with an invisible zipper set. In this post Shira shows how to correctly cut fabric. <a href="https://www.facebook.com/CFashionEdu/?hc_ref=PAGES_TIMELINE&fref=nf" target="_blank"></a><br />
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<a href="https://www.facebook.com/CFashionEdu/?hc_ref=PAGES_TIMELINE&fref=nf" target="_blank">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiCLafGmZt-cvdpZYgfGbKH45FMmvNhV09Vr0y1MWMqs5a4sA5l6p8TB1TsBwXlOqlTP5kM18Ft4jZoEkAsw3WXz1ydyNfBq324rAZf1MeHpw99KYNDu2LorApOLTLSwq6wiT7SzBWLvM/s1600/shears.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiCLafGmZt-cvdpZYgfGbKH45FMmvNhV09Vr0y1MWMqs5a4sA5l6p8TB1TsBwXlOqlTP5kM18Ft4jZoEkAsw3WXz1ydyNfBq324rAZf1MeHpw99KYNDu2LorApOLTLSwq6wiT7SzBWLvM/s1600/shears.gif" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">12-inch shears are used<br />
in industry to cut fabric.<br />
They are slid on the table<br />
as the fabric is cut.</td></tr>
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Shira is using 12-inch shears, as done in high-end designing departments. Note that she slides the shears along on the table as she cuts.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_a7JY_jlEHoll3zpFbUry5jGFUpXVKg8zxVucSUpDw61fNvq2J42NZR4JLDjXK8QkJENSWiIiin8o5Ll4BylWWQzVXLkTA_Gfm7mEJbqTuVZlANjtSW2imiWzUXbiZ9aWDWoRpCHVJ9Q/s1600/sandwich.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_a7JY_jlEHoll3zpFbUry5jGFUpXVKg8zxVucSUpDw61fNvq2J42NZR4JLDjXK8QkJENSWiIiin8o5Ll4BylWWQzVXLkTA_Gfm7mEJbqTuVZlANjtSW2imiWzUXbiZ9aWDWoRpCHVJ9Q/s1600/sandwich.gif" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sandwiching difficult fabrics<br />
between tracing paper makes<br />
for accurate cutting.<br />
Note that the pins are back<br />
from the edges of the pattern.</td></tr>
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The lining and the shell’s fabrics have been plied so as to speed the cutting. To ensure accurate cutting the fabric is sandwiched between tracing paper. The tracing paper was first spread out over the table, then first the lining, and then the self-fabric was laid over the tracing paper. Finally the pattern was laid on top. Because the pattern was not cut out, there was no need to lay tracing paper over the underlying plies.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigNoA2P9stVUMmxFEhqEAyc5Oj9sFikwfXffb90eN6kOVJTdiWyhH3_dP9BovBt917JDvrbTVXvw9TfBsBWZEInOmAdqTPSMTuPe3kVCjj1hEiQokPRQrlmf2lo5RSX3Adap0-Z5DKppE/s1600/left-to-right_3314-net.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigNoA2P9stVUMmxFEhqEAyc5Oj9sFikwfXffb90eN6kOVJTdiWyhH3_dP9BovBt917JDvrbTVXvw9TfBsBWZEInOmAdqTPSMTuPe3kVCjj1hEiQokPRQrlmf2lo5RSX3Adap0-Z5DKppE/s400/left-to-right_3314-net.gif" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shira cuts from <span style="font-size: 12.8px;">right</span>-to-<span style="font-size: 12.8px;">left</span><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">, as done in the industry.</span><br />
Her fabric is sandwiched between underlying tracing paper<br />
and the pattern which has not been cut.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5T9RnWmIWW1dsWAWExQ65_49q7rCkJ62TDftUHJgs78zmWDoCp-Hu_VbR4uKNJ0Si2klCr17wnEAJCu7ShUa9GocjW0W-zFWdnM69a9mndPHZ_zy4TyB7evHeZolXQMxVoImQYXQ48hg/s1600/cutting-left-to-right.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="136" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5T9RnWmIWW1dsWAWExQ65_49q7rCkJ62TDftUHJgs78zmWDoCp-Hu_VbR4uKNJ0Si2klCr17wnEAJCu7ShUa9GocjW0W-zFWdnM69a9mndPHZ_zy4TyB7evHeZolXQMxVoImQYXQ48hg/s200/cutting-left-to-right.gif" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This diagram shows how one cuts<br />
from <span style="font-size: 12.8px;">right</span><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">-to-</span><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">left</span>.<br />
If left-handed, one cuts from<br />
<span style="font-size: 12.8px;">left-to-righ</span>t, of course.<br />
Left-handed 12-inch shears<br />
are apparently not manufactured.<br />
But I believe one can<br />
buy left 10-inch shears.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0GTbMwB2s9zU_TR1bamuS0fuSOT968uIkeEGNOVtP5xU5_nJq4UjnKObqkbNvlnBEZUwtOfeBXnc_iZuv6EFjKBA_Q6_BBqDqXIeU6jrxWv8_O-GrM5OVbrGm1bJyoGMPfrfKj9XHJNE/s1600/grain-straightening.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0GTbMwB2s9zU_TR1bamuS0fuSOT968uIkeEGNOVtP5xU5_nJq4UjnKObqkbNvlnBEZUwtOfeBXnc_iZuv6EFjKBA_Q6_BBqDqXIeU6jrxWv8_O-GrM5OVbrGm1bJyoGMPfrfKj9XHJNE/s320/grain-straightening.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
<span style="font-size: 12.8px;">If the fabric is off grain, use the instructions in this diagram to straighten it.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />
<br />
<br />
Note that Shira is cutting from left-to-right, as done in industry.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Her fabric is on grain. But if the fabric had been off grain she would have had to straighten it.<br />
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<em style="color: #333333; font-family: calibri;">Laurel</em></div>
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Laurel Hoffmannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00238938109416111092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1445659851534540479.post-52367225499331445732016-12-03T06:00:00.002-08:002016-12-03T06:00:49.340-08:0058: Fabric Tricks<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR6bNPvsWv8yk_yFHu80JnalZMRM6TJj7AV7_2a6IJmv1KBFZUWaTw_-csnEHenre-mpsSjGpsNgZqjvbYMWeaHWFTyN3tRTRmKMlfEANAhn4tzhNrbKpOAseFW5Y0b3tUX-zZP35PDQk/s1600/dress-and-fabric33.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="584" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR6bNPvsWv8yk_yFHu80JnalZMRM6TJj7AV7_2a6IJmv1KBFZUWaTw_-csnEHenre-mpsSjGpsNgZqjvbYMWeaHWFTyN3tRTRmKMlfEANAhn4tzhNrbKpOAseFW5Y0b3tUX-zZP35PDQk/s640/dress-and-fabric33.gif" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shown almost finished is a Christmas present, a dress and bonnet, for a dear friend’s baby girl. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Above is an almost finished dress and bonnet for a dear friend’s baby girl.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgqYaSgWNvgDQoK_fy0YK9cGHcvqJUTNI466ryG-N-yA5BfZcd3gLEBcjPiXtQp9zk-R9NUxTQWfmqdFQNeWZsFZjvcopo157EENAET09D1OGRCx-NsAL4vWkJIBPi_paiEhtaTiaE9gU/s1600/Which-side_22.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgqYaSgWNvgDQoK_fy0YK9cGHcvqJUTNI466ryG-N-yA5BfZcd3gLEBcjPiXtQp9zk-R9NUxTQWfmqdFQNeWZsFZjvcopo157EENAET09D1OGRCx-NsAL4vWkJIBPi_paiEhtaTiaE9gU/s320/Which-side_22.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The ensemble was cut and trimmed entirely from<br />
one piece of fabric, shown here.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
One might think two coordinating fabrics and trim were used to make this garment, but that is not the case. The dress, its lining, and its trim were cut from one piece of fabric, shown on the left.<br />
<br />
Since most fabrics have no right or wrong side it’s one's choice as to which side is chosen to be the right side. Many fabrics can cut so that one side presents itself as the garment’s principle fabric, and the other side as trim, or as done here, as the lining.<br />
<br />
Either side of the fabric could have been considered the right side. If I had wanted to make a very dressy garment the shiny side might have been the better choice to present on the right side of the garment.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj03LykhP2fxydyYToed1hkVsC9QzzufYm5tyTOL0Oa0OOxHHuM1vW1Nki9R_IZuRCu3HQHVh5gA3QJQug98AaSR0jaAwh5gjGrbju5qPW_Qnossag6qzmbUZk5G4tjZDwCVAEa8E_nL8/s1600/sweater.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj03LykhP2fxydyYToed1hkVsC9QzzufYm5tyTOL0Oa0OOxHHuM1vW1Nki9R_IZuRCu3HQHVh5gA3QJQug98AaSR0jaAwh5gjGrbju5qPW_Qnossag6qzmbUZk5G4tjZDwCVAEa8E_nL8/s320/sweater.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The dress and bonnet were made to be worn with the<br />
sweater I had already knitted. Since the sweater had a <br />
matt finish I chose the fabric's matt finish as the side of<br />
the fabric to be the face.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
But I was making an outfit for a baby and wanted a dress that would coordinate with the sweater I had already knitted. So I chose to use the matt side of the fabric for the face (right side).<br />
<br />
Since I planned to line the dress I decided that the shiny side would show on the inside of the garment. This meant that I would cut two plies at once. Actually I cut through four plies of the fabric when I cut the side front and back patterns for the dress.<br />
<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhny8bMfP7wehfxfyP7BItXFhUiFfBYwW-kz5eJsd9d5Zbhusl8Flnmnd99NM-mjLC6U1R9Tz1Hy1r5dttsBf6p5R-yW4jFPoVh_TWhKGiNPq9q18fvEbwzgyWrDhg2hYwijSukWC-H-8Y/s1600/front-pattern-31.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhny8bMfP7wehfxfyP7BItXFhUiFfBYwW-kz5eJsd9d5Zbhusl8Flnmnd99NM-mjLC6U1R9Tz1Hy1r5dttsBf6p5R-yW4jFPoVh_TWhKGiNPq9q18fvEbwzgyWrDhg2hYwijSukWC-H-8Y/s320/front-pattern-31.gif" width="152" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taping tracing paper to the<br />
front pattern, folding on the<br />
center front line, then tracing<br />
the front pattern onto the<br />
tracing paper ensures that the<br />
finished garment will look<br />
professional.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The front dress pattern presented the usual problem. The pattern was only half of the front.<br />
<br />
So before I cut the dress I taped tracing paper to the front dress pattern, then folded the taped tracing paper on the center front line over the pattern. I then traced the front dress pattern so as to have a complete front. This ensured that the dress front and its lining would be cut correctly.<br />
<br />
IMPORTANT: This should ALWAYS be done with patterns that are shown in the pattern packets as being cut on the fold. <b>No one in the industry EVER cuts a pattern on the fold. There are just too many things that can, and WILL go wrong if one cuts on the fold.</b><br />
<br />
Note that I also reduced the princess seam to 3/8 inch, the neckline to 1/4 inch, the shoulder seam to 1/2 inch, and added 1/8 inch to the back seam so as to set the zipper into a 3/4 inch seam allowance. <b>There is no point in cutting seams on a 5/8 inch seam allowance and then trimming them back after the seam is sewn.</b> It makes far more sense to mark a new cutting line, being sure to mark the new cutting lines with the use of a ruler for straight seams, and curved drafting tools for curved seams. One then sews the seams, using the gauge on the sewing machine to ensure that the seams are sewn perfectly on gauge.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwrIViAvsJ53OhHj5RGvHo6HlrmCwV8Hcl1JIx03MXYDxZ0FXbdSXunu6lB65-OInunZ3b3_-BOGBZK3swV5gGxbRk83F5joD7w5_OZpzrAGH_Su7DD390CxubM7MgCmdty5p-dQG5yB4/s1600/marked-fabric.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="157" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwrIViAvsJ53OhHj5RGvHo6HlrmCwV8Hcl1JIx03MXYDxZ0FXbdSXunu6lB65-OInunZ3b3_-BOGBZK3swV5gGxbRk83F5joD7w5_OZpzrAGH_Su7DD390CxubM7MgCmdty5p-dQG5yB4/s320/marked-fabric.gif" width="320" /></a></div>
ALWAYS, before cutting any fabric, mark the direction you plan to cut the garment on the wrong side of the fabric down the selvage, or next to the selvage, with arrows pointing the direction the garment will be cut. This prevents any possibility of shading in the finished garment.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8lzyK-ujTvD4Wm-mrKxiukr0DRK_1BOh4SL707EbCfJ-dLn04DdBbDDWKLvENlA4QSfDgAHigcYzLE7NOgoBOe_teOFWmrSRepRVMkv6DGxJKAKij2cGIHCbruq_UJsp4xF_wsuAuoYc/s1600/Six-high-end-zipper-sets-cover.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8lzyK-ujTvD4Wm-mrKxiukr0DRK_1BOh4SL707EbCfJ-dLn04DdBbDDWKLvENlA4QSfDgAHigcYzLE7NOgoBOe_teOFWmrSRepRVMkv6DGxJKAKij2cGIHCbruq_UJsp4xF_wsuAuoYc/s320/Six-high-end-zipper-sets-cover.gif" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The just published <i><a href="http://laurelhoffmann.com/products/six-high-end-zipper-sets" target="_blank">Six-High-End Zipper Sets</a></i><br />
presents how industry's top seamstresses set <br />
beautiful, professional zippers in record time.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWBxKgHrpilJ-TEvXdNEl99dlz5alExLsn-u4GPdiaawQo5k7jCYwn-rymxNSUkXbp8gHEOTAL3VjLYccV237_SdBbuu-LUUuDiso87IrWcmbYtDkcIAuC5CtWxgZ8tcVP9HACie_qs-E/s1600/zipper-set-34.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWBxKgHrpilJ-TEvXdNEl99dlz5alExLsn-u4GPdiaawQo5k7jCYwn-rymxNSUkXbp8gHEOTAL3VjLYccV237_SdBbuu-LUUuDiso87IrWcmbYtDkcIAuC5CtWxgZ8tcVP9HACie_qs-E/s200/zipper-set-34.gif" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>The lapped hand-pricked zipper was set first</b>.<br /><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Once the garment was cut the next step was to <b>set the zipper,</b> <b>always the first step,</b> or the first possible step <b>when sewing a garment. </b>This took only a few minutes as I used the high-end method industry’s top seamstresses use to set professional zippers, presented in the 100 plus pages of my just published, <b><i><a href="http://laurelhoffmann.com/products/six-high-end-zipper-sets" target="_blank">Six High-End Zipper Sets</a>.</i> </b><br />
<br />
<br />
<i></i>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqpbtRm0ATP4ELmUrHuuMs95BkqEIfQR4MyX7imkukpFynbxfacjyw6Wz3CjS95_aZyudAsHQ16JBCMNl7FprI76Ls0GJ6VGh2HlfjMjp3dkckBVu1iJ-KMbnO6_jX2q9CaL-A_dkWz1I/s1600/selvage-22.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqpbtRm0ATP4ELmUrHuuMs95BkqEIfQR4MyX7imkukpFynbxfacjyw6Wz3CjS95_aZyudAsHQ16JBCMNl7FprI76Ls0GJ6VGh2HlfjMjp3dkckBVu1iJ-KMbnO6_jX2q9CaL-A_dkWz1I/s320/selvage-22.gif" width="306" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Since the teeth marks were 3/8 inch from the inside<br />
edge of the selvage's fringe, I could cut the selvage the<br />
correct width without first marking a cutting line.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
The trim was made from the fabric’s selvage. I measured 3/8 inch from the inside of the selvage’s fringe. Since there were teeth marks from the weaving, 3/8 inch from the inside of the selvage’s fringe, all I needed to do was to cut along the teeth marks. I then sewed the selvage’s fringe to the front piece’s princess seams before sewing the side front pieces to the front piece.Finally I sewed the side-front princess seams to the front princess seams, sewing in the previous stitching made when I sewed the trim to the front princess seams.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhilIT2DTXRObK9_kbZ_LAOt_8YpO4l9LMmxiDV2tjDXg0XCLUvBZ56zP844LJXVSoknJ5m2eNT-gu4pz9jIo0tYNnjyg4zyzuBs6_Yrbv5bOgV0ZSB3llWdhktbfy7tlR68xzWO5sntnA/s1600/close-up-trim-26.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhilIT2DTXRObK9_kbZ_LAOt_8YpO4l9LMmxiDV2tjDXg0XCLUvBZ56zP844LJXVSoknJ5m2eNT-gu4pz9jIo0tYNnjyg4zyzuBs6_Yrbv5bOgV0ZSB3llWdhktbfy7tlR68xzWO5sntnA/s320/close-up-trim-26.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Purchased trimming roses and hand embroidered stems<br />were added to give some glamour to the dress.<br />Note the selvage's fringe in the princess seam, on the left.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The dress seemed a little dull. So I sewed little roses were purchased from Joanne’s Fabrics onto the front of the dress, then embroidered the stems with back stitching.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx5P0zjrmgbb2_Kyc3kaTxuEs3UsLJVO2JXj4U-igRrurKjEcxlkxg8FbZPG1mIhriuOehMNecqn2kNpZXqJ6Al1MYbjsLxIx5DpeToIlOtKVyx5IwMNePKuY5oIePWtE_jlOxGft04eg/s1600/dress-and-fabric33.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="292" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx5P0zjrmgbb2_Kyc3kaTxuEs3UsLJVO2JXj4U-igRrurKjEcxlkxg8FbZPG1mIhriuOehMNecqn2kNpZXqJ6Al1MYbjsLxIx5DpeToIlOtKVyx5IwMNePKuY5oIePWtE_jlOxGft04eg/s320/dress-and-fabric33.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The shell's hem hangs on the lining, eliminating the need to hand hem.<br />The garment is encased (clean finished as they say in the industry) preventing the need to overcast the seams.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The hem was easy. I don't care to hand hem, I don't like hand hemming to show, as it most likely would in this fabric. I prefer not to overcast seam allowances. I like to produce a high-end garment and to get done as quickly as possible, so encasing the dress with the lining was the perfect solution. I cut the lining 3/4 inch shorter than the shell, allowing the shell’s hem to hang on the lining. The shell's hem is sewn to the lining's hem on a 3/8 inch seam allowance, then pressed open so that the shell's hem seam allowance lies down into the hem and the lining's seam allowance lies up.<br />
<br />
Notice that the right armhole and both side seams are not yet sewn. All that is still needed is to wrap the right front armhole across the front of the dress and to wrap the right back armhole across the back of the dress, sew the armhole, and pull the entire dress through the tunnel. Next finish the right side seam, then the right side of the hem, finish most of the left side seam, leaving approximately 4 inches of the left seam open, finish the left side of the hem, and finally hand sew the left side seam’s opening closed.<br />
<br />
The entire <i>pull-through process</i> is presented and diagrammed, step-by-step in the last four of the thirty-six chapters in <i><a href="http://laurelhoffmann.com/products/design-room-techniques" target="_blank"><b>Design Room Techniques</b></a></i>, an encyclopedia of over 400 pages of step-by-step fully-diagrammed high-end sewing information that is available from my <a href="http://laurelhoffmann.com/products/design-room-techniques" target="_blank">website</a>. The book also contains all the zipper sets in <i><b><a href="http://laurelhoffmann.com/products/six-high-end-zipper-sets" target="_blank">Six High-End Zipper Sets</a>.</b></i><br />
<br />
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Phone: 215 884 7065</div>
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Laurel Hoffmannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00238938109416111092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1445659851534540479.post-69853320168900654842016-07-30T09:49:00.001-07:002016-07-30T10:34:40.859-07:0057: Fabric Jams<h3>
<span style="color: blue;">Fabric jams in the race!</span></h3>
All is going well. You are sewing easily and quickly, when all of a sudden the fabric jams in the race!<br />
<h3>
<span style="color: blue;">What CAUSES THIS PROBLEM?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJklotO9gWELl36KgG16i04x9yFR9gTo8HhdupV_JdErM03ty1HxTPiCxKuurtcYj6oOrU6O032GSYuPHFIS_Rtt8KZj3CoiF_yYMfYzJenTINeYloDdWtRAGqbVfrq-uRamJ0bFt91g0/s1600/race-with-arrow.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJklotO9gWELl36KgG16i04x9yFR9gTo8HhdupV_JdErM03ty1HxTPiCxKuurtcYj6oOrU6O032GSYuPHFIS_Rtt8KZj3CoiF_yYMfYzJenTINeYloDdWtRAGqbVfrq-uRamJ0bFt91g0/s320/race-with-arrow.gif" width="238" /></a></div>
</span></h3>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_HMoPKbfey5R3fm6AKG0zziqva12Eur7Ev_EtSoYaG7fELZiErGSiaYoVH9DGcxkFjtQOh0MEWM0SCksG1lW6xFQO__CbqXTIqYp7L-M77ikUpHlLB9PaE3mCrJKq1cVvMcEbtOzwe9E/s1600/zig-zag-ft-and-plate.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_HMoPKbfey5R3fm6AKG0zziqva12Eur7Ev_EtSoYaG7fELZiErGSiaYoVH9DGcxkFjtQOh0MEWM0SCksG1lW6xFQO__CbqXTIqYp7L-M77ikUpHlLB9PaE3mCrJKq1cVvMcEbtOzwe9E/s1600/zig-zag-ft-and-plate.gif" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The zigzag plate and foot.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b>The answer is simple:</b> when one uses a zigzag plate and foot <b>the zigzag plate's wide opening and the open width of the zigzag foot makes it easy for fabric to jam down into the race through the zigzag plate's opening.</b><br />
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<br />
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: blue;">What is the solution?</span></h2>
<br />
This problem can be quickly solved by changing the sewing machine’s zigzag plate and foot to a straight stitch plate and foot before sewing straight seams..<br />
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However, many home sewers prefer not to change the plates and feet on their sewing machines when they sew straight seams. They have found they can sew straight seams with zigzag feet and plates. Changing the foot and plate takes time, and is aggravating. This is the reason many home sewing machines now are sold with just a zigzag plate and foot. Straight-stitch feet and plates may not even be available for many home sewing machines.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipnnxFh9Qvs1yrp5vTu4gnkglQbsFdVFP404gQP93Pbb9VrUnjcE-41Xf7o8LY6JIxLcDI5cWB6Z1Y9ez6bWTmru1gSYasy5sgvgKFqEJkZ3lY9xMCi3BsNpTJlaATymoRcgOymlVvjc0/s1600/ft-above-plate.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipnnxFh9Qvs1yrp5vTu4gnkglQbsFdVFP404gQP93Pbb9VrUnjcE-41Xf7o8LY6JIxLcDI5cWB6Z1Y9ez6bWTmru1gSYasy5sgvgKFqEJkZ3lY9xMCi3BsNpTJlaATymoRcgOymlVvjc0/s200/ft-above-plate.gif" width="187" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The straight-stitch <span style="font-size: 12.8px;"> plate and foot</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="color: blue;">Where can one buy a <br />straight-stitch foot and plate? </span></h2>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4m7o34CR0sDKnzgafiYjwyd6zD8BJqB_a-P461xPGsswL3HbsYvCTvMJxCLSQsRIZzf0OiR7DNk5174wjZEBIgDC9pVuDtEY6w4uhl3BUVJ7vyVkZoJxzGKvpVaJE6Ka9r1mQhU9ACxQ/s1600/st-stitch-plate.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4m7o34CR0sDKnzgafiYjwyd6zD8BJqB_a-P461xPGsswL3HbsYvCTvMJxCLSQsRIZzf0OiR7DNk5174wjZEBIgDC9pVuDtEY6w4uhl3BUVJ7vyVkZoJxzGKvpVaJE6Ka9r1mQhU9ACxQ/s1600/st-stitch-plate.gif" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The straight-stitch plate has a <br />
small hole that prevents jamming.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Straight-stitch feet and plates can be ordered for some sewing machines. Unfortunately straight stitch plates are not manufactured for many home sewing machines. However, if one uses a straight stitch foot, even if one does NOT use a straight-stitch plate, much of the jamming problem can still be eliminated.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjAqFRL5CFwSKe0xGq9WxCrCsKjEHcugsc1QBhIMiLu0d8qafCGOJ86nLui1C3Bk4KdYOnj7w-34Wr3_IS0YLCzUDmW28woESx8ORnJWqUj0XcpL178pGht7PphUxu_XCAtY3dyxXvxkE/s1600/1-1-inch-prong.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjAqFRL5CFwSKe0xGq9WxCrCsKjEHcugsc1QBhIMiLu0d8qafCGOJ86nLui1C3Bk4KdYOnj7w-34Wr3_IS0YLCzUDmW28woESx8ORnJWqUj0XcpL178pGht7PphUxu_XCAtY3dyxXvxkE/s200/1-1-inch-prong.gif" width="179" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not the greatest foot to use when straight-stitch sewing. But it will prevent jamming.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Sometimes straight-stitch feet can be bought on E-bay. It is difficult to find a true straight-stitch foot with a 1/4 inch prong. But there are straight-stitch feet now manufactured for quilting that have 1/8 inch prongs.<br />
<br />
It is also possible that one might find a straight-stitch foot with a 1/4 inch prong at a yard sale or at a sewing machine dealer.<br />
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<span style="font-size: 14.85px; line-height: 20.79px;"> B</span><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;">ooks: </span><span style="color: #336699; font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;"><a href="http://www.laurelhoffmann.com/" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration: none;">www.Laurelhoffmann.com</a></span><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 20.79px;"> </span></div>
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<a href="mailto:Laurelhoffmann@comcast.net" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">e-mail</a></h4>
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Phone: 215 884 7065</div>
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<span style="font-family: "bookman old style" , serif; font-size: 11pt;">©</span> Laurel Hoffmann, 2016. All rights reserved.</div>
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All material on this blog is copyrighted by and is the exclusive right of Laurel Hoffmann.</div>
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Laurel Hoffmannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00238938109416111092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1445659851534540479.post-26709951636411808082016-07-30T07:55:00.003-07:002016-07-30T07:55:56.287-07:0056: African Fashion on a Global Stage<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEAwEr03k7GJ-oTpaGsfWVlcyH6_OUwp4id1mh2EJgCYmiuswIB_OaEhe5W0zy1QmAVpqCFQMSqWAMoBoRS08AXYAuy0vub7brRMvPaISb_QxPeSiO_T4IEpVFYUf_pFz-tDaOSuN-ZVE/s1600/First-pic-gif_152456.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEAwEr03k7GJ-oTpaGsfWVlcyH6_OUwp4id1mh2EJgCYmiuswIB_OaEhe5W0zy1QmAVpqCFQMSqWAMoBoRS08AXYAuy0vub7brRMvPaISb_QxPeSiO_T4IEpVFYUf_pFz-tDaOSuN-ZVE/s320/First-pic-gif_152456.gif" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The exhibit contains many wonderful<br />examples of African fabric and clothing designs.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A beautiful collection of clothing designs from Africa is showing in the Philadelphia Museum of Art’s Perelman building now.<br />
This is the show’s description on the<a href="http://www.philamuseum.org/exhibitions/838.html" target="_blank"> Philadelphia Museum of Art’s website:</a><br />
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<h2>
<span style="color: red;">Vlisco: African Fashion on a Global Stage</span></h2>
<i>April 30, 2016–January 22, 2017</i><br />
<i>Joan Spain Gallery</i><br />
<i>Discover how the Dutch company Vlisco became one of the most influential textile brands in West and Central African fashion and a design inspiration around the world. This exhibition explores the company’s most enduring designs, follows the creation of a new textile, and showcases a selection of contemporary fashions.</i><br />
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Here are pictures I took when I visited the exhibit.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_zc0vT_Dv1KCyuAS4iSlFwKPU6YaEyMXQtj45m5rZdxLVjNMXe7ad7OSF7LU0eDQpkYYvKNoaqm07ulblQYYpb-qZAg1rT7Hj2EuYOGGMuc2kOcdcdVjVM9t_fcRbStdOS6Ij2ARq1AY/s1600/gif-wax-printing-151945.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_zc0vT_Dv1KCyuAS4iSlFwKPU6YaEyMXQtj45m5rZdxLVjNMXe7ad7OSF7LU0eDQpkYYvKNoaqm07ulblQYYpb-qZAg1rT7Hj2EuYOGGMuc2kOcdcdVjVM9t_fcRbStdOS6Ij2ARq1AY/s400/gif-wax-printing-151945.gif" width="296" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />The explanation of how the fabric<br />is printed.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKpXkKSITlDUgDQn2J29Mmg-uATCOzXqjzzPbkWuuc6DYkrg64grhFvNWzrtkQOzMis44vUFYlbVCfVDvWOIG4MncvLytxazL9NlulLDGaVcZyOrtdZQ-9Gqtr48L8mBsYeazY-bJmUU8/s1600/gif+fabric+152000.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKpXkKSITlDUgDQn2J29Mmg-uATCOzXqjzzPbkWuuc6DYkrg64grhFvNWzrtkQOzMis44vUFYlbVCfVDvWOIG4MncvLytxazL9NlulLDGaVcZyOrtdZQ-9Gqtr48L8mBsYeazY-bJmUU8/s320/gif+fabric+152000.jpg" width="252" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The prints are unique. The walls of the exhibit<br />are mounted with many of the prints.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9oyVMGoQqdVntLn0_hIeiW1kwfWGovvyN8dpGEjyB8ZKGyC1UyIqp01XugHxl_QrE0de7qqZEorikaHEdAEKj-T3FsUg8Om_s9gObugPqAqJPCPd7PlY8RxeGnyyKd7NgvF7gvH57bWk/s1600/gif-first+pic152436.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9oyVMGoQqdVntLn0_hIeiW1kwfWGovvyN8dpGEjyB8ZKGyC1UyIqp01XugHxl_QrE0de7qqZEorikaHEdAEKj-T3FsUg8Om_s9gObugPqAqJPCPd7PlY8RxeGnyyKd7NgvF7gvH57bWk/s320/gif-first+pic152436.gif" width="282" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi55ALDckwdZQe8rPhq3nzHGH7mw7CSvdglCHM1n6vdyOB2RrEWBxKwzRmBNkv-d-q7jqcoFzlvrUic8GDbwjQlnMk9Hi8G19ASkN2QwVh1R25XFdF054q7YGzqRzWzf8L-QAm2SbywNxg/s1600/gif-151230.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi55ALDckwdZQe8rPhq3nzHGH7mw7CSvdglCHM1n6vdyOB2RrEWBxKwzRmBNkv-d-q7jqcoFzlvrUic8GDbwjQlnMk9Hi8G19ASkN2QwVh1R25XFdF054q7YGzqRzWzf8L-QAm2SbywNxg/s320/gif-151230.gif" width="171" /></a><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Male suit</td></tr>
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Photos by Laurel Hoffmann.</div>
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Laurel Hoffmannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00238938109416111092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1445659851534540479.post-91245444360624816312016-02-08T11:50:00.000-08:002016-02-08T11:50:12.474-08:0055: Styles and Methods of Teaching Sewing<div style="text-align: center;">
<i style="font-weight: normal;">for 4-H, Industry, Traditional College, </i></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>Continuing Professional </i><i>Education College Courses, </i></div>
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<i>and various other situations </i></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
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<i>(For information about private lessons, <a href="http://contemporaryfashioneducation.blogspot.com/2016/01/54-interested-in-private-lessons.html" target="_blank">see the previous post, below.</a>)</i></div>
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Ask me my profession and I will tell you that I am a production patternmaker. But what I really do is teach others the skills I learned in the design rooms and factories where I worked in the industry. I have taught these skills to children in 4-H, to adults through the Extension Service, to fashion degree students and professional education adults at Philadelphia University. I have used, and continue to use a variety of teaching methods and styles, depending on the situation. In this educational issue I will share with you those teaching styles and methods I have used successfully, and that I have found to be consistently reliable. I am including where I found them to be most effective.<br />
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Sunday School- The “Keep the Hands Busy” Method: Excellent method when working with <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My 4-H Clover Club worked very hard. Quite a difference<br />from my first teaching experience.</td></tr>
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hyperactive children. My first teaching experience was at 13 when my pastor reluctantly allowed me to teach a Sunday school class of four 8-year-old, hyperactive boys that included my spoiled-brat cousin. No one else would volunteer, so I was it. We would whiz through the Bible story and get right into coloring, cutting out, gluing and pasting, folding and framing. This method could be adapted for 4-H with folding fabrics and organizing them by color, sorting buttons and stringing them, etc., marking, cutting, and sewing long strips of 2-inch wide muslin on gauge – also used in the factories to teach new workers gauge sewing. Be aware that this type of student gets finished very fast and once done is intentionally or unintentionally apt to turn to annoying his neighbor. So, when confronted with this situation, be totally organized and take at least twice, maybe three times the amount of projects you think you will need. You may still run out of work for the class, but at least it will take longer before you do.<br />
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Cub Scouts- The “Field Trip” Method: Field trips work. One trip can yield education the equal of an entire series of classroom lessons. My slightly out of it, artistic, creative little cubs needed field trips, not arts and crafts. So for two years I arranged weekly field trips to awaken them to the world around them. The field trips included visiting Villanova University to see the stars through their telescope, traveling to the University of Pennsylvania’s Archaeology Museum to learn about Indian artifacts, visiting the Pottery Barn in Oreland to learn how a small factory processes items for shipping, and attending a St. Thomas’ carillon concert on the lawn with a visit up into the bell tower later where, with a little help, the cubs played Three Blind Mice on the carillon bells.<br />
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Adult Continuing Education- The “KISS Field Trip” Method: When organizing field trips, Keep It Simple, Sweetheart. If possible avoid the rent a bus method. On the morning of a field trip to New York City, my Adult Continuing Ed. students board the 6:37 a.m. R7 train out of Chestnut Hill at the station most convenient for them, walk to the last car on the train, and join our group. Once in the Trenton station we buy round trip tickets for New York. It’s cheap, it’s lots of fun, it requires almost no planning, and if for some reason someone can’t go that morning, she just doesn’t get on the train. With no chartered bus, all are also free to go home earlier, or to complete some errand independent of the group. And no one has to collect money, or worry about who won’t show up.<br />
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The “Boy Scout” Method – Be Prepared: Den 6 had many adventures. But that was because nothing was unprepared or left to chance. Keeping a schedule of weekly field trips that of necessity were on various days of the week required putting all directives in writing so all knew what was needed, what they were expected to do, and when they were expected to do it. Today I continue to make sure I have lesson plans written and in place, right on my desk or workstation. Communication is vital. I put directives in writing. I e-mail my students, often through the week, to keep all on track. I always answer the phone when it rings to avoid wasting time playing phone tag. I haul into class whatever is needed in a 30-gallon plastic box strapped onto luggage wheels to make my classroom supplies easier to move. I park as close to the classroom door as possible and use my car as a closet the entire time a course is running, so I can’t forget anything on class day. And I data base all students and keep it current.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 4-H rosette, <br />awarded for outstanding work.</td></tr>
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4-H Methods: 4-H is the children’s division of the Extension Service, implemented to each county through land grant state colleges under the Department of Agriculture. The Extension Service was originally set up to provide our country’s farmers with educational support to improve agriculture. Programs were added later: home economics for the farmer’s wife, 4-H for the children. 4-H is the world’s largest youth organization and the model for many other youth organizations throughout the world.<br />
<b><span style="color: blue;">My 4-H Clover Club in three years, at ages 11 and 12, while still in the junior division, completed all ten levels in the Pennsylvania 4-H Clothing and Textiles Program, earning Clovers ( huge green rosettes) and perfect scores for their work. The reason they were so successful is because they worked very hard, and because I taught them industrial methods. </span></b><br />
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The “Sit On Them” Method: (4-H jargon) This involves guiding the learner/worker step-by-step through the procedure(s). It can be used in almost any situation where a student or trainee needs considerable instruction and support. Often combined with a prior demonstration, the teacher sits or stands next to the student, instructing and overseeing each procedure, step-by-step. This one-on-one, step-by-step method is extremely effective for two reasons: One- the new learner has maximum support and Two- success is guaranteed. It is used with 4-H members ages 8 to about 12, to supplement classroom instruction, to train one-on-one in the factories, and is the format for industrial training videos that teach the use of, or repair of, complicated machinery. 4-H leaders often combine this method with child swapping. For example: I get nowhere when I try to teach my daughter. How does it go with you and your daughter? Want to swap?<br />
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The “4-H Critique” method: The Extension Service teaches its 4-H leaders to critique the children with four compliments for each criticism. Because criticisms, no matter how softly or carefully spoken, sound like screams to the person being criticized; and compliments sound like whispers; the criticism is slipped in between two compliments on either end. I can’t over emphasize the value of this method; it works well in every situation.<br />
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The “Teaching Through Self-Criticism” Method: This is another highly effective 4-H method. The leader asks the child: Tell me about what you are making/have made. What is good, and what could be better? Note the lack of any negative. The child then discusses her work and how she can make it better. Usually the child knows what is wrong and may know what should be done. The leader then shows the child how to correct her work.<br />
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In conclusion, always tell the truth, especially when critiquing. Even children know what isn’t quite right about their projects, so saying it is right when it isn’t undermines one’s credibility. Praise only when it is deserved, but praise and encourage as much as possible. Sometimes it is hard to find anything that can be praised, but there is always something. I have found that sensitive critiquing methods are the best choice for both children and adults. When critiquing adults, I keep in mind that they, deep inside, are really children at heart.<br />
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Transition to Teaching in Traditional College: A few days before Christmas 1989 the phone rang. Philadelphia University was on the line, and I was asked to teach a new, introductory sewing course in Philadelphia University’s fashion program. The University had learned about my 4-H Clover Club’s success, I had critiqued a couple of Philadelphia University’s fashion classes, and they needed a professor who could teach high-end design room sewing. So there I was in January of 1990 standing in front of two classes of college students who knew no more about sewing than I knew about getting them through the course. I was well prepared with an extended syllabus and a new sample book I had developed at lightening speed over the holidays. But I was teaching in college, and I had never finished my degree. I was a nervous wreck.<br />
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Before I tell you my methods for teaching in a traditional college program, which may come across as pretty rough, you need to know that the students signed up for my classes droves, and loved me to death. My classes were always full, and my students recommended my courses to other students. It was quite common for students to wait a semester or so to get into my classes. I taught two courses in the traditional program. The first I developed, the second I wrote and developed. The most important aspect of any college course is the syllabus – Latin for lesson plans. All courses I have written since are based on the syllabus I developed for that course.<br />
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Teaching in college is tricky, it doesn’t pay much, and it is a lot of work. Developing a syllabus that not only works well with the students, but will also catch any student’s trick(s) to get around the course, can take 5 years, which was the case with this course. A syllabus is often five or six single-spaced pages long; as it must explain the purpose of the course, the grading system, the penalties for work not done, a day-by-day listing of the class work, a supply list, and anything else the professor feels important to the course and wants the students to be aware of. I kept notes throughout each session’s run that, after each semester, I used to upgrade the syllabus. In that first course, each student made a lined skirt with a zipper, a long sleeve blouse with convertible collar, and a sample book of zippers, hems, etc.<br />
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Teaching college students convinced me that children, even 19-year-old coeds, need discipline, and are glad when it is put in place and enforced. I believe the discipline I put in place was the underlying reason my courses were so popular and so successful. As a parent of college age children myself, I felt I had an unwritten agreement with my students’ parents – they sent their children to me to be educated and it was my responsibility to fulfill that obligation.<br />
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I still believe, however, that the more effective way to teach college students is to tell them that they don’t even need to come to class, that attendance won’t be taken, and that all that matters is that the final exams be passed and/or the material required to pass the course be turned in at the end of the semester. That policy puts the responsibility on the student, requiring her to shape up or out she goes. Since college is about training leaders, that policy also quickly determines who the leaders are. Anyway, that is what I was told at Syracuse University where I grew up fast, quickly realizing that if I didn’t do the work or attend class I wasn’t going to stay on campus for very long. That policy with the undergraduates was frowned on at Philadelphia University, so I never used it until I began teaching adult education.<br />
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First of all, forget the Socratic method. Socrates, considered by many to be the greatest teacher who ever lived, said that the teacher should wait for the student to ask the question. That is a very good idea because the only students one can teach are those who want to learn. But that method doesn’t always work, and can be suicidal for one’s career, if teaching college sophomores. Just in case you are wondering, I never tried it.<br />
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The “Cut Down the Material in the Course So They can do It” Method: Thinking sewing would be easy for the students to learn, I had added supplemental material to that first course. Two weeks into the course, still a nervous wreck. I had the students hand in their sample books. Their work was so awful I immediately dropped all supplemental materials from the course and promptly forgot all about being nervous. It was time to get those kids to work, and work is just what they did.<br />
When the University critiqued my students’ and my work by examining their sample books, the books were considered to be outstanding.<br />
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The “Fear, Love, and Bribe” Method: This method is phenomenal when used with traditional sophomore college classes. It is especially effective when combined with a schedule that requires students to submit all work to date, four to five times<br />
throughout the semester.<br />
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Fear: On the classroom wall I had taped up a cartoon of a mean black cat. Under the picture was the comment: I have PMS, and a handgun. Any questions? I would start each semester by telling the class: This is a VERY DIFFICULT course (This has to be true, of course), with way too much work. Take a good look at your schedule. Make sure you have the extra time this course will require. It’s going to be tough, but I will get you through it. I don’t know any of you yet, so I am going to say this to all of you now: Be aware that if any of you hand in work that isn’t your own, I will take you to student court. I’ve done it in the past, and I will do it again! And if you are sitting there really frightened, I’m not talking to you. But if you are thinking, ‘Oh, that is a big bluff. She would never do that –’ then you are the one who had better listen, because it<br />
is YOU I am talking to. Then I would tell them: I do NOT grade on the curve. If everyone of you produces A work, then every one of you will get an A. On the other hand, if every one of you does dreadful work, then every one of you will fail. I told them that to prevent the class collectively doing nothing, forcing me to pass most of them anyway.<br />
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Love: Then I continued: It hasn’t happened yet, but I would love THIS class to be the first class where every single student in it aced the class. Gentle Reader – Believe me, this kind of talk REALLY works with college students! I also called them pet names, such as sweetheart, darling, honey – it took time for me to become comfortable with this, but they responded so well when I did it, that I continued the practice. They missed their mothers and their mothers’ endearments. Any student who came into class sick was immediately sent home – not the usual practice in college. If they had to be late because their prior class was on the other campus, they were excused from being registered as tardy. I had the class do lab work for twenty or more minutes before starting the demos. The day’s work was written on the blackboard so I didn’t have to repeat it for students who arrived late.<br />
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The first day of class I took everyone’s picture, each holding a paper with her name printed in big letters. This has proven to be so invaluable I have continued it with every class since. Years later, if a former student calls, I can find her picture in<br />
minutes and remember who she is. It also enabled me to learn their names quickly, giving me almost immediate control of the classroom. One student, when asking me to recommend her for a scholarship a second time, told me she hated to ask me<br />
again, but I was the only professor she had who knew her name. [She received both scholarships based on my recommendations, and I was happy to recommend her again.] I laced the course with encouragement. I praised all achievement. I was honest, but careful to protect feelings when giving criticisms.<br />
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Bribe: I implemented a grading system so intimidating and complex that I was probably the only person on the planet who could understand it. As written in the syllabus the grading system made complete sense. It was only in actual practice<br />
that one became confused as to how the thing worked. I knew the students were lost in it because the syllabus said that 2 points would be deducted from the final grade for each sample not in the sample book at the last evaluation. The students<br />
never seemed to realize that if a really tough sample – such as one of the industrial zipper sets – was not done only 2 points would come off the final grade. Often little samples that were no effort would be missing, while all of the zipper sets would be done.<br />
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The “Work-in-Progress Evaluation” Method: It is necessary to be positive with all students, and that is especially true when teaching college students. So, with the exception of the sample book that almost all of my students would not have done without strong motivation, I never took grades away. Instead, I started my students out at the beginning of the semester with 0 points out of 100. They earned 2 points toward their final grade for each review with all work, no matter how awful, done to date. With that exception, all grades were temporary. Each time they handed in their work, they were given a temporary grade so they had some idea of how they were doing in the course. The grade was always lower than it would be when the course was finished because new work, added since the last critique, needed to be fixed. I allowed all students to do any of their work over, as many times as they wished, to get their grade higher. Many of my students probably made every single sample in their sample books three or more times.<br />
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The “Tutoring” Method: Because most of the students were learning new concepts -industrial fashion design is a low level engineering discipline laced with math- tutoring was essential for many if they were to pass the course, and because my courses were so popular, I always had way too many students to give much individual time. Here were some of the problems: Some had never seen anyone sew at a sewing machine before entering my class. Most knew nothing about sewing. Those who did had to be moved over from home sewing to industrial sewing – and because they had to unlearn so much, and because they may have won lots of awards with their home sewing prior to coming to college, they were the most difficult to teach and the most easily upset. It was quite common for students not to own sewing machines. Some also had psychological problems that needed attention. Fortunately the University had a good counseling service that worked well with whatever private service might already be in place for the student. Each semester I would watch to see who the best students were. At the end of the course I would ask the best of them if she/they would want to tutor the next semester. It was quite common for my outstanding former students to tutor some of their closest friends, which they would have done anyway, but now they got paid for doing it.<br />
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The “Fashion Industry’s Critique” Method: Used throughout the industry to determine a product’s sales feasibility, the fastest and most effective way to teach any student how to evaluate her work is to ask her: Would you buy it?<br />
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The “Grading System” Method: The first semester I taught I asked an experienced professor who had befriended me, how to determine my students’ grades. This is how I carried out the method she recommended: In the beginning I would take all<br />
work home. Then I went through it and put the very best in one pile, and the very worse in another. I then put the worse of what was left next to the really worse; and the best of what was left next to the really best. The remaining work I put in the<br />
middle. So now I had an A pile, a B, a C, a D, and possibly an F pile. Then I went through each student’s work, writing notes about what was good and what needed improving on a sheet of paper with that student’s name on it. Some work, under closer inspection, moved up or down a grade or part of a grade. In the beginning I think I removed names to be sure I was fair.<br />
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Once I had done this several semesters, it got a lot easier. Now I could grade on the spot. From then on I never took any student work home. When a student brought her work to me for critique and grading, she and I went through it together, I wrote what needed to be done on a sheet of paper, copied it in the office, put a grade on it, wrote the grade in my book, and the student took her copy and work with her. When I tallied up the grades, I converted all projects’ grade letters to numbers and gave each project’s number the percentage listed on the syllabus; did the math, and then the numerical answer was converted back to a letter grade. If at all possible I passed the students. I found that having a hard working student repeat the course yielded no greater success the second time through, than had been achieved the first time. I rarely flunked a student, and worked very hard with a student at risk to try to prevent it. If the student worked really hard, but the work was absolutely awful anyway, I gave a D.<br />
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The “Finish Early” Method: The first day in class students were told that as soon as they had finished the work in the course and I had graded it, they didn’t need to come to class. I finished all demos in the course several weeks before the end of the course. The bright students finished early, of course, freeing me to work with the remaining students who needed more help.<br />
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The Professor’s Critique of Course Success: Professors need to be able to evaluate their own work as well as that of their students. I learned from the other professors that: On the first day in a traditional college classroom it is assumed that the professor knows all and the students know nothing. Mid-way in the course the professor and students should be exchanging information. By the end of the course the students should be telling the professor. A few months or longer after the course if my A and some of my B students were now showing me various design and technical solutions they had discovered or designed, I knew I had taught them well.<br />
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Postscript: My students never seemed to realize that the professor who promised to get them through it had intentionally developed the course to work them to death, and that was why it was so difficult. The industry is tough; my students needed to get used to it. The course difficulty also enabled the students to do well in subsequent courses. And if they transferred, or went into industry, they were well trained, disciplined, and prepared.<br />
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Non-traditional education- Continuing Professional Education: I was already involved with writing fashion instructions prior to teaching traditional college classes. I had taken the teaching position to classroom test what I had been writing and to research the college market. Once in the college classroom, it became glaringly apparent to me that better fashion textbooks were desperately needed. Although the other professors and I searched the market, little was in place that was usable. But the work with the degree students was so intense, I was unable to both teach and write books.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Teaching in Continuing Professional Education gave me<br />more time to write and more freedom with course content.<br /></td></tr>
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Then a golden opportunity fell into my lap. The University asked if I might want to teach some Continuing Professional Education fashion courses. This would give me more time to write and more freedom with course content. Since no one was teaching fashion courses in Continuing Education, I could set up the content and write the courses any way I chose. Because these courses wouldn’t be for a traditional program, there would be no concern on the part of the University about whether or not the courses I wrote would transfer. I would have the time to write my textbooks, I would be able to test my writing in the classroom with adults, and although I would teach fewer classes and make less money, I would still make enough to buy the computers, etc. I needed for my writing. I would also retain the college perks: the credibility, the access to the copy machines and library, etc. that are a part of being on a college faculty. Hopefully adult students would give more feedback than I got from the degree students. That turned out to be the case. The job was PERFECT! Again I was sailing into uncharted waters. I knew little of continuing professional education certificate programs until my students asked that my courses be turned into such a program. I certainly never expected that the course material I would write for that program would become books the industry would recommend and sell on the global market.<br />
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Program Focus: Written and designed for home-based entrepreneurs, requiring so little equipment that it could be taught and utilized in third-world situations where electricity might not be available – the program has from the beginning attracted professionals, including design room personnel who want to extend their professional knowledge, and laypersons with considerable sewing experience who want to upgrade their work to professional level. The program presents the three design room methods of obtaining patterns: One- drafting patterns to fit from measurements. Two- taking patterns off ready-made garments with no stitches removed. Three- working with a sizing system, e.g. the Standard Sizing home sewing patterns’ system, to quickly grade that system’s patterns to custom fit and then to modify the styling to personal preference. The students also learn the drafting skills needed to modify their patterns for efficient home or factory production and the sample making- the fabric preparation, spreading, cutting, and sewing skills – needed to produce high-end, hand made garments. Throughout the program the students are learning how, from design concept to finished garment, all of this comes together to produce high-end garments within a reasonable, affordable time frame, whether making one garment at home, or producing samples in the industry. They are also learning how to reproduce their garments in small runs and/or mass-production, if they should desire to do so.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sample makers sewing wedding gowns that sold for over<br />$10,000 in the late 1960s.</td></tr>
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Many people are unaware that industry not only makes the mass-produced clothing we are all <br />
accustomed to seeing in the stores, but also produces very expensive, beautifully made garments for the wealthy. The same design room skills are used to design and produce garments at all price levels. A company will often use the patterns developed for their high-end lines to also make their inexpensive lines, but the finished garments will be quite different. The differences in the final low-end and high-end products are the results of different fabric qualities, different production methods, and different seamstresses’ skill levels, all determined by bottom line profit projections. Upscale New York stores buy the exclusive rights to these high-end garments at the manufacturer’s fashion show. The garments are then usually cut and sewn in the manufacturer’s designing department as they are ordered by the store’s wealthy preferred customers.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The textbooks are written and are now being copy-edited.<br />The finished books are for sale on my<a href="http://laurelhoffmann.com/" target="_blank"> website.</a><br /><a href="http://laurelhoffmann.com/p/about-laurel" target="_blank">Students can buy any of the books.</a></td></tr>
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Writing textbooks that answer the right questions: The program started out with a little skirt course in late spring that no one, except me, expected to run. I had done research and knew that although many people had stopped sewing, they would sew if a method were available that produced better results. From the beginning, the courses were very popular. Students often drove two hours to class, coming from as far as Harrisburg, PA and Glassboro, NJ. The students asked for another course, I asked them what they wanted, then I wrote that course. That is how all of the courses in the program came to be. To keep the program going, writing course material was essential. Many weeks I raced down to the campus on Friday afternoon to copy the material I had written during the week, that the students absolutely had to have the next day in class. Eventually the course material, which in the beginning was handed out free, became so extensive, I now had textbooks for sale. I was learning a lot about drafting to individual fit and putting that into the course material. People with difficult fitting problems, many were asymmetrical, found out about the program and took the courses. Fitting my students’ skirts and shirts in the degree program had taught me that approximately one out of about every seventeen people in the general population is asymmetrical enough to require asymmetrical patterns. In my adult courses often one out of every four students is asymmetrical.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIYUrxqA7vMKeeiGXMaArwxiuRY-WCgr05e1N-IlLxZ4PxEG2TlJVbp9Ny3fy5XZB7XJCi2Cy-08FuXULRyZxYR4h8XgLxVruQZPt0rqr7sjyz2bOL3pmse0vXJJhVAan2AZYOcmAtVH0/s1600/custom-fitting-the-bodice-sloper.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIYUrxqA7vMKeeiGXMaArwxiuRY-WCgr05e1N-IlLxZ4PxEG2TlJVbp9Ny3fy5XZB7XJCi2Cy-08FuXULRyZxYR4h8XgLxVruQZPt0rqr7sjyz2bOL3pmse0vXJJhVAan2AZYOcmAtVH0/s320/custom-fitting-the-bodice-sloper.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Custom fitting a muslin to an individual's fit<br />makes it possible to grade home sewing patterns to a custom fit.<br />Only some tracing paper and a transparent ruler are needed.</td></tr>
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I continue to determine how to solve my students’ fit problems and in the process am developing a whole series of industrial fitting techniques that can be used in industry and with minimal equipment in the home. There is talk, and some effort, in the industry to produce customized mass-production. But for now, the industry does almost no custom fitting. Each company has its sizing system(s) and all patterns are drafted from slopers – patterns used to make patterns – that are drafted for those measurements. Without these classroom experiences, I would have written books that probably would have been of little use, for I would have had no way of knowing what the market truly needs, and no way to determine if my books really work in a classroom setting or home-based entrepreneurial business.<br />
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Teaching Adults: To teach adults, one has to know one’s material cold and be able to quickly determine answers to completely unexpected questions. Adults come to the classroom with experiences and expectations that can often be added to that course session’s content. Sometimes a visitor to the room may find it hard to tell who is the teacher and who is the student. Because many do not hesitate to speak their minds, teaching adults requires the ability to take criticism. Adults are not impressed with brownie points – e.g. grades and certificates. They are there to learn, and if they don’t they will not be back.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN590GT6YqC0zdcKQyqu7HzzUs90jLiRtOqSJFDQVfaAjovcWzG8dxlXKkEHw30dxBL6oxUNxGIvwSfwYgroglQ4JS_HE_CgS3LatQzHV6ok7uusUR64e1t7QVDc2TfusZvK3R6rU1Vrk/s1600/Hand-Out-of-new-material.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN590GT6YqC0zdcKQyqu7HzzUs90jLiRtOqSJFDQVfaAjovcWzG8dxlXKkEHw30dxBL6oxUNxGIvwSfwYgroglQ4JS_HE_CgS3LatQzHV6ok7uusUR64e1t7QVDc2TfusZvK3R6rU1Vrk/s320/Hand-Out-of-new-material.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Handing out new, written material. Adult students <span style="font-size: 12.8px;">are the perfect </span><br style="font-size: 12.8px;" /><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">subjects for testing. They </span><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">ask questions and </span><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">critique once<br />they realize I welcome their feedback. </span></td></tr>
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In the beginning, even though I had asked my students to <i>please tell me the problems they find in the course materials so I hear them from you rather than from the mass-market when the books are published</i>, it was tough to hear what was wrong with the courses and with the material I was writing. But I reminded myself that that was why I was teaching – I was there for the feedback. And I knew that if I didn’t show that I was upset, I would get that information. With that resolve in place, I listened, changed course content, changed writing, changed anything that the criticism convinced me to change. Because I took that tact, criticism no longer bothers me, various problems have been eliminated from the program, and I am a much better teacher for having listened to the advice. Now when a student tells me what is wrong, I automatically thank her, pick up a pencil and write down the problem or solution, do whatever is needed to correct the problem, and, with the exception of being glad the problem no longer exists, think no more about it. In turn, they are very supportive. It is because of my students’ support that I have continued writing and teaching through the times when I might otherwise have quit.<br />
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To my mind, imposing heavy-handed discipline coupled with deadlines on students already on overload with family and job responsibilities is inappropriate in adult education. I believe that my concern should be about my adult students enjoying their educational experiences in my classes, and that I should help them achieve whatever goals they set for themselves when signing up for the program. Whether or not that includes getting the certificate is their decision. The program’s course portfolios are difficult, but if the certificate is important to a student, then it is her responsibility to do the work, course portfolio by course portfolio, that is required to get it. I give her unlimited time to do this.<br />
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Students do no sewing in my classes. [Now that I am teaching private lessons they often sew in class.] I have never allowed it because once on the machines the class turns into classes and time is wasted with machinery problems, etc. Instead I have the students watch my demos, following the instructions in their textbooks. The demos are assigned for homework. This gives each student time to work through each demo and the opportunity to determine what she doesn’t understand about it. The next week the students discuss their problems with the assignments and the demos are repeated. All demos in the course are repeated as many times as the students’ request.<br />
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Teaching adults is very pleasant. Adult students often become close friends. I still take pictures of students, and as quickly as possible I turn the pictures into a composite sheet with addresses, which I give to all of the students in the class so they can contact each other. I ask first if this is OK. No one has said no yet. Adults in the course sometimes get together during the week to prepare their homework for their upcoming [Saturday] class. In class, after a fit demonstration, it works well to team the class into groups of three students each and have them do the assigned work together. Because, with the exception of one course, students can start the program with any course, new students are put into classes with students experienced with the program. All students are encouraged to informally tutor new students during class labs. The experienced students are usually happy to help the new students, remembering when they were new and helped by their more experienced classmates.<br />
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I encourage students to make as many mistakes as possible during the run of the course. I tell them, If you already knew the work in this course you wouldn’t be here. The reason I know and can teach this is because I have made lots of mistakes. That’s how I learned it. There isn’t anything you will do wrong that I haven’t done wrong at some point in the past. The more mistakes you make, the more you will learn. Please help your classmates by sharing your mistakes with them so they can also learn from them. When a student does make a mistake I always first ask her if she will share her mistake with the class. Then she is praised for doing so, and told how much she has helped her classmates. It’s also easier for the students to deal with my critiquing their mistakes because they are encouraged to point out my mistakes in their textbooks-in-progress that I am writing for their courses.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_AvSzaHlZH4p9iln4k3H2JGQsgzv_4pKoQiOb37Xap6zOr_yq8xqHnXOcUr8RgXy7FZD3QPZDT6bAeknQoB2q7uOEUbkFolEH9ZNckvQjXraEXPDUs0ItRbX_UzbX-6aQvwRHQuFAfks/s1600/grading_to_fit.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_AvSzaHlZH4p9iln4k3H2JGQsgzv_4pKoQiOb37Xap6zOr_yq8xqHnXOcUr8RgXy7FZD3QPZDT6bAeknQoB2q7uOEUbkFolEH9ZNckvQjXraEXPDUs0ItRbX_UzbX-6aQvwRHQuFAfks/s400/grading_to_fit.gif" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Debie celebrates her successful grading.</td></tr>
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Much of my program is about developing a grading/tracing procedure that enables my students to custom grade to fit while tracing home sewing patterns. (Grading is a mathematical drafting procedure that enlarges or reduces a pattern specific, predetermined amount(s).) This allows the clothing to be cut and sewn together without the bother of the traditional fitting process. Custom grading also produces a finished garment that is truer to the original styling than the traditional fitting method. However, since this is a new procedure that is being tested, completely unexpected fit, drafting, and grading problems surface in class all the time.<br />
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Many times I can figure out the solution on the spot. But sometimes it’s not that easy and I have to promise the student I will get back to her. When faced with a problem so difficult I feel I will never solve it, I first examine the problem until I thoroughly understand it. Then I stop thinking about it. Within a few days my muse wakes me suddenly in the middle of the night and I tiptoe down the stairs to my studio and write down the inspiration. The next morning, fully awake, I look at the previous night’s gleanings and find that the solution is often so totally different than one would expect, I would never have been able to solve the problem while awake.<br />
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One also has to keep one’s back covered – meaning that sometimes a student, convinced she is right, or if she feels threatened by new information, will introduce material into the classroom that is misleading. Then the professor must explain why it doesn’t work or shouldn’t be used. This must be done without, if possible, undermining the student’s self-esteem. Most of the time that is no problem, but sometimes it gets very complicated. This also can happen when giving seminars. If I am being paid, I hold control at all costs, but if I am not, then I consider that person to be speaking for the group, and myself to be a guest, so I shut down. The group doesn’t learn what I came to teach, but that is their problem.<br />
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Learning and teaching are messy procedures; often so intertwined that one can at times debate which is which. I have always loved school, and am pretty much convinced that I learn more than any of my students in most of the classes I teach.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaazP2_l5vz_VdlmMsMOTvh1_Uo-kRIugkd0IUqNel6VVAwYQfuEyC0hlYSa2ZCIg2xAPxHDhwvXzJrdi78xv1V1eSaglG0YdTM6_UtzF6toLcN9ssGXEUqmqIKRhd9HEn6MVoRohHF64/s1600/Contemporary_Fashion_Education_certificate_awarded_to_student.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaazP2_l5vz_VdlmMsMOTvh1_Uo-kRIugkd0IUqNel6VVAwYQfuEyC0hlYSa2ZCIg2xAPxHDhwvXzJrdi78xv1V1eSaglG0YdTM6_UtzF6toLcN9ssGXEUqmqIKRhd9HEn6MVoRohHF64/s400/Contemporary_Fashion_Education_certificate_awarded_to_student.gif" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Michele shows the certificate she earned when she completed the program.</td></tr>
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Summary: For me the unexpected, and the research and development that goes with my type of teaching, is why I love what I do. Determining the problems, figuring out the procedures the students need to be able to solve them, putting it down on paper, and then testing to see if my students can understand the writing and drafting that results, is very exciting for me. I love doing this and my students seem to catch my excitement and enjoy being a part of it. I find research and development is the most exciting when the problem is complex, turns up when least expected, and requires a solution completely different than anything I would ever have imagined. It’s then that I feel I have touched the stars, and, in so doing, learned a little more about our universe. But back to earth – So how does one decide which teaching method, mine or any other, to use? As we say in the industry: If it works, use it; if it works, you’ve got it right.<br />
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PS. One more thing: If you are teaching, consider allowing any prospective student to audit one class, if she wishes, before putting down her money. <br />
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© Laurel Hoffmann, 2004<br />
All rights reserved. Printed in the Greater Philadelphia PACC newsletter in 2004 for a the one time use.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 11.88px;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Laurel worked as a production patternmaker in the industry, drafting and </span><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;">setting up the work for women's clothing factories. </span><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;">She learned sample making (sewing as done in industry) while there.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="color: #336699;"><a href="http://www.laurelhoffmann.com/" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration: none;">www.Laurelhoffmann.com</a></span>- published books,<br />Facebook: <a href="http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#!/pages/Contemporary-Fashion-Education-Inc/151215644907805?v=wall&ref=ts" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank"><span style="color: #336699;">Contemporary Fashion Education, Inc.</span></a><br /><span style="color: #336699;"><a href="https://twitter.com/LaurelHoffmann1" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">https://twitter.com/LaurelHoffmann1</a></span></div>
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<a href="mailto:Laurelhoffmann@comcast.net" style="color: #6699cc; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">e-mail</a></h4>
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Phone: 215 884 7065</div>
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<span style="font-family: 'bookman old style', serif; font-size: 11pt;">©</span> Laurel Hoffmann, 2015. All rights reserved.</div>
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Laurel Hoffmannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00238938109416111092noreply@blogger.com0