Wednesday, April 3, 2013

5TH POST: ABOUT DRAFTING AND SEWING PANTS AND SKIRTS


Spring courses in Laurel's program start next Saturday April 13.  Here is the schedule and the course order form for the upcoming classes.  View posts 1 through 4 below this post to see some of the techniques students will learn in Grading & Sewing a Blouse and Jacket course, the sequel to Fitting Home Sewing Patterns/Grading to Fit 
 
Laurel's pant course, Drafting & Fitting Pants and Skirts, starts next Saturday April 13. Each student drafts a custom fitted skirt and pair of pants. The pants are drafted in three steps:

1. The students first produce a custom fitted skirt pattern from their waist/hip measurements. All information for cutting and sewing the skirt are in the second of the two textbooks that support this course.
 
2. Then the crotch area is drafted. Vertical and the horizontal measurements are used to ensure that this area will fit. Charts enable students to quickly determine how to draft the area.

Two books support the course. Step-by-step diagrams enable even novices to produce professional garments from their drafted patterns.
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
3. Finally the pant legs are drafted. The pant patterns are then checked with a muslin.
 
All fit problems are addressed. Because department stores' fitting rooms rarely have three-way mirrors many people are unaware that their pants pull in the back crotch area. This is because pant manufacturers often skimp on fabric by cutting the inseams too shallow. The problem is easily corrected as shown in the diagram above on the left. 
 
During the course students learn the sewing skills they need to produce professional skirts and pants at home. These skills are contained in Sewing Pants and Skirts, the second of the two course books. Included are step-by-step instructions for sewing fly zippers, both the left-lapped - used in men's clothing, and the right-lapped - used in women's clothing. These are the procedures used in industry by zipper setters who set up to 500 zippers a day. Note in the diagram above on the right that the seam into which the zipper is set is sewn AFTER the zipper is set.
 
On the right Paulette models her pants. Her pant pattern was the first pattern she had ever drafted.
 
If you are interested in taking this course, here is the schedule for the upcoming classes and the course order form. The schedule and order form includes the information needed to register for the Blouse/Jacket course.
 
If you decide to take the pant course please call Laurel at 215 884 7065 or e-mail her so she can have your course materials ready for you the first day of class.

Holy Martyrs church in Oreland, Pennsylvania.
The program is now taught at Holy Martyrs Church in Oreland where Laurel is renting classroom space for her program. The location is one mile from the Fort Washington turnpike exit, has a huge free parking lot, and is two short blocks from the Lansdale/Doylestown train station. A pizzeria, restaurant, and bakery are within a block.
www.Laurelhoffmann.com- published books
www.ContemporaryFashionEducation.com- school
 Facebook: Contemporary Fashion Education, Inc.
http://contemporaryfashioneducation.blogspot.com/
 P:215 884 7065, F:215 884 3727, C:610 908 7222

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