77: Moving the Bust Area

Probably the most important single fit aspect of a garment is the fit over the bust.

If a bodice pattern has bust darting the darting often needs to be moved to allow the bodice to fit correctly.

Here are instructions that show how to do that.

1. Measure from point to point.
Divide the measurement in half.

2. Mark a straight-grain line

 on the front bodice pattern,

 that distance from the 

center-front grain line.

1. Measure the from point to point. Divide the measurement in half.

4. Mark the true bust point on the

bodice pattern, the measured

width from the center front to

the true bust point.

2. Mark a straight-grain line on the front bodice pattern, that distance from the center-front grain line.

3. Measure the length from 

the shoulder to the true bust point.

3. Measure the length from the shoulder to the true bust point.

4. Mark the true bust point on the bodice pattern, the measured width from the center front to the true bust point.

6. Lay tracing paper over the dart

area.

5. Lay the pattern over the

model to see if the true bust point

is correct.

5. Lay the pattern over the model to see if the true bust point is correct.

6. Lay tracing paper over the bodice pattern's dart area.

7.  Use RED pencil to trace the darts.
With RED pencil trace the straight grain
that is marked through the waist dart.

8. Move the traced darts and 

straight-grain line so the traced 

original true bust point now 

lies over the true bust point.

Tape the tracing in place.

7.  Use RED pencil to trace the darts.  With RED pencil trace the straight grain  that is marked through the waist dart.

8. Move the traced darts and straight-grain line so traced original true bust point now lies over the model's true bust point. Tape the tracing in place.

9. Trace the front bodice with the new

carts. Add a 3/4 inch seam allowance

down the center front.

10. Cut the front and back bodices in

muslin. Pin together. Check the bust

fit. Mark the darts' sewing points.

Re-pin the darts.

9. Trace the front bodice with the new darts. Add a 3/4 inch seam allowance down the center front. 

10. Cut the front and back bodices in muslin. Pin together. Check the bust fit. Mark the darts' sewing points. Re-pin the darts.

11.  Lay the front bodice pattern over

the muslin. Copy the sewn dart pints.

Mark the sewn dart points with BLUE 

pencil.

12. From the lower third of the

armhole mark a line to the

true bust point.

11.  Lay the front bodice pattern over the muslin. Copy the sewn dart points. Mark the sewn dart points with BLUE pencil.

12. From the lower third of the armhole mark a line to the true bust point.

13. Fold the bust dart as shown. With RED pencil 

connect the underarm/side seam intersection with 

the waistline/side seam intersection.

13. Fold the bust dart as shown. With RED pencil connect the underarm/side seam intersection with the waistline/side seam intersection.


Thanks for reading! Your comments are most welcome. Questions? Email or call 215 884 7065. 

If interested in reading more posts about fashion technology, please consider adding your name to this blog's circles. Please consider following me on Facebook where I post links to fashion feeds and other fashion related topics.

Look for the article about seam allowance modification that I wrote for Threads Magazine. It is in their 199 issue that is now in libraries and on the newsstands. 

I am currently working on a book that presents how to custom grade patterns to fit. All work can be done in the home with minimal equipment - tracing paper, pencils, transparent ruler. I'm hoping to have that book finished by the end of this year. It's sequel, Grading and Sewing a Blouse is finished and will be offered as a sweet deal with the grading book.

https://cfashionedu.com/

Twitter: https://twitter.com/LaurelHoffmann1

email: Laurel@CFashionEdu.com

Phone: 215 884 7065

© Laurel Hoffmann, 2018. 

76: Sewing Pants

Sew pants in this order:

Check the pant pattern with
a muslin fitting.

Cutting to match produces
high-quality pants, no
matter what fabric is used.

Caution: Before cutting the pants make a muslin to be sure they fit. The muslin can be made from inexpensive fashion fabric. If the muslin's fit is good, the muslin can be worn.


Only an inexpensive sewing machine is needed to make high quality pants, or other high quality garments for that matter. 

Only an inexpensive sewing machine
is needed to make high-quality clothing.
Shown is a 1941
feather-weight sewing machine

1. Set the pockets.

2. Set the zipper. The zipper is set BEFORE the crotch seam is sewn.

When sewing zippers ALWAYS put the fabric that
has more give down to the feed, as shown here. That way
the feed dog will take up the ease, producing a professional finish.
 (The fly facing is stiffened with fusing, 
causing it to be stiffer than the pant front. )

(In the industry one seamstress sets the left side of the zipper, another seamstress sets the other side of the zipper, , the reason there is no stop at the bottom of fly zippers that have been sewn in the industry. After the side and inseams are sewn, the slide is slid up the zipper teeth to close the zipper. Then the crotch seam is sewn. In the home this is not usually practical.) 

3.Sew the crotch seam from the bottom of the zipper's stop to 1 1/2 inch from the front seam/inseam intersection.

4. Sew the side seams.

5. Sew the inseams. 

 Note: If the pants are encased with lining, there is no need to finish the seams, as encasing with lining IS a seam finish. 

6. Sew the crotch seam from 1 1/2 inch from the front seam/inseam to the back waist.

7.  Hem the pants.

8. Sew the waistband.

 The Basics for Sewing Pants and Skirts
contains the information needed to cut and sew
professional pants and skirts.

For complete classroom tested pant sewing information, consider The Basics for Sewing Pants and Skirts. It contains 470 pages of professional, step-by-step sewing instructions that include inset back and front pockets, zipper sets, lining, hemming and other procedures and tips too numerous to mention.

Making a sample book of the
procedures included in The Basics for Sewing Pants and Skirts
helps to develop professional sewing and
tailoring skills. All of these
procedures can be done at home
with minimal equipment.

Many of the procedures in the book are complicated. Making a mock up of some of these procedures is a good idea before attempting to make them in a garment. That is why purchase of the book includes a file of the sample book one can make as one works through the book. Two other files are also included with the purchase: a file of all the mock up patterns that can be printed, and a printout of all of the sample book pages that includes all of the information on the author's master sample book.

If interested in reading more posts about fashion technology, please consider adding your name to this blog's circles. Please consider following me on Facebook where I post links to fashion feeds and other fashion related topics.

Look for the article about seam allowance modification that I wrote for Threads Magazine. It is in their 199 issue that is now in libraries and on the newsstands. 

https://cfashionedu.com/

Twitter: https://twitter.com/LaurelHoffmann1

Phone: 215 884 7065

© Laurel Hoffmann, 2018.